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Coolant disappearing - Some white smoke

MisterCruiser

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Joined
May 28, 2014
Messages
506
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ireland
Alright folks, said I'd start a new thread, update based on this thread from back in June. I'm looking further into the leak part of the thread, not the low level sensor!

Ok, so basically, at the end of June last, I had to top up my rad by 1.5L and also fill the overflow bottle. Overflow probably takes a good litre I guess.
I said in the other thread that the cruiser wasn't smokey, but it actually is, upon first starting there is white smoke, because this cruiser might sit a week or 2 in between starts I used just put the puff of smoke down to condensation, that's why I said it wasn't smokey in the other thread. But now I'm losing coolant, It's started to dawn on me.

From end of June to sometime in the past few weeks, the system had been operating properly, as in the overflow bottle level had various levels depending on when I checked it, cold engine, warm engine etc. Seemed normal.

Until last weekend, I noticed the bottle was completely empty, this bottle has always been empty in the 10 yrs I own it, I'd top it up but it would always empty over time. However, the rad always remained full; until June this Summer when I had to top it up 1.5L. Now, at end of Sept, my bottle is empty, but more to the point, my rad level is down now again too, it's just above the fins. I'm going to drive it the rest of this week, 300 miles over next 3 days and see if it goes below the fins to see for definite that's it's leaking and also to see how much I have to top it up by at that mark. The rad used always be full to the brim as I believe it should be in this type of system where the rad is constantly pulling / pushing water to/from the overflow.

I also notice that there is a little puff of white smoke when I start it even with the engine still warm where it only sat for a few hours. Nothing major, but a noticeable puff, morning cold starts has a little white smoke too. It has had this white smoke on start-up this years, first start after sitting a while. I never passed much heed as didn't have to top the rad up.

One thing I always found a bit odd, is the fact it heats up very quick, gauge has never over-heated, never passed the centre normal position, but it heats up within 2/3 miles on a cold morning, way quicker than my 2L PD engine Golf which needs about 6-8 miles to reach temp. Can an engine getting to operating temp quickly be a sign of burning coolant? How long does it take for members here for their 90's to heat up? 3L diesel models.

I have a coolant pressure tester kit, need to check if there is an adaptor to fit the rad in it. Does anyone know what pressure the 90 series coolant system should be tested at?

There are no signs of obvious external leaking, no red coolant tell tale signs, it's a SWB manual so no auto coolant pipes or rear heaters, no water in footwells either from a matrix.

Is there a way to test for burning coolant?
 
Does it have an intercooler because i believe they sometimes collect enough condensation to show in start up smoke .

Check all the heater pipes , it was a 1 in a million fluke I seen a pipe drip directly onto my turbo which of course was so hot all evidence of a leak vanished instantly .

Worst case scenario your not overheating , yet , so it seems probable to me you might only have to change the head gasket .
 
Hi there, from reading your description above, there is at least either a head gasket issue or head issue. The very obvious one is the puff of smoke when the engine is warm – so coolant building up to temperature while driving from cold and pressure within the system rising, when engine is turned off, it cools down, metal contracts and this is when any crack/leak within the head will let coolant flow its way to the combustion chamber. The leak can also be due to head gasket blown between cylinders – the gasket between the cylinders is a bit narrow hence the weaker area. Mine looks completely fine when I took it off and the issue was within the head area that I can’t visually see. Porous head at intake port 3 - you have replied to my thread yesterday https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/cylinder-head.158157/#post-1601545. My experience with my KZTE intercooled was also a slow loss of coolant, took me a while to find out. First change of head gasket didn’t solve the problem until I changed the whole cylinder head.

If you cant find obvious external leak of coolant – this is another tell-tale sign. I remember spending countless hours trying to look for external leak on mine too, but never found any.

The coolant pressure test kit is a very good way to confirm – set this to 14 PSI to start with. The KZTE radiator cap is rated at 0.88bar I think, which is 12.8 psi. So 14 will mimic the pressure build up when driving and works the cooling system. From my own experience, I expect yours to drop within a few minutes.

Do the pressure test after you have started the engine first time and let the “first” puff of while smoke burnt, without letting the engine warm up, shut it down and then start the test – if there is another puff after the pressure test, it will be pretty certain that this is from burnt coolant (pressure kit pushes coolant into combustion chamber).


Above are from my own experience, not guarantee yours is the case but hope it might help to pinpoint further what your problem is.
 
The KZ is renown for the head going. I had the issue you describe with my KZJ70. The head had cracked between 3 & 4. The new head was from a dealership that told me there had been a recall on them on the later models
 
Surely it would have to overheat to create enough pressure to crack the head ?
 
Pretty sure the head will be cracked....certainly not the first one that has...... Roughtrax did or still possibly do a better made aftermarket head that's a simple swap over job
 
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Hi there, from reading your description above, there is at least either a head gasket issue or head issue. The very obvious one is the puff of smoke when the engine is warm – so coolant building up to temperature while driving from cold and pressure within the system rising, when engine is turned off, it cools down, metal contracts and this is when any crack/leak within the head will let coolant flow its way to the combustion chamber. The leak can also be due to head gasket blown between cylinders – the gasket between the cylinders is a bit narrow hence the weaker area. Mine looks completely fine when I took it off and the issue was within the head area that I can’t visually see. Porous head at intake port 3 - you have replied to my thread yesterday https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/cylinder-head.158157/#post-1601545. My experience with my KZTE intercooled was also a slow loss of coolant, took me a while to find out. First change of head gasket didn’t solve the problem until I changed the whole cylinder head.

If you cant find obvious external leak of coolant – this is another tell-tale sign. I remember spending countless hours trying to look for external leak on mine too, but never found any.

The coolant pressure test kit is a very good way to confirm – set this to 14 PSI to start with. The KZTE radiator cap is rated at 0.88bar I think, which is 12.8 psi. So 14 will mimic the pressure build up when driving and works the cooling system. From my own experience, I expect yours to drop within a few minutes.

Do the pressure test after you have started the engine first time and let the “first” puff of while smoke burnt, without letting the engine warm up, shut it down and then start the test – if there is another puff after the pressure test, it will be pretty certain that this is from burnt coolant (pressure kit pushes coolant into combustion chamber).


Above are from my own experience, not guarantee yours is the case but hope it might help to pinpoint further what your problem is.

Hey, thanks for the tips.
Where did you disconnect the fuel pump to stop the engine firing when doing the glow plug test? I'm going to carry out this test.

My coolant pressure tester kit won't seal properly at the rad cap and let me hold a maintained pressure, typical.

Is the genuine Toyota head gasket a single layer type, as opposed to the multi layered gasket you see on more modern cars? I find it is difficult to pin point exactly where a multi layered gasket failed compared to a single type. I believe I can pressure the system by just blowing air via my air line blow gun into the over flow hose at the rad cap. If I pressure the system whilst doing the glow plug test it should push coolant into the glow plug port if the crack is there, and help show up a mist / spray more easily, I think?
 
Will it seal in the overflow bottle ?
Not easily anyway, would involve at least another person to try hold an adaptor there if one will even fit and try keep it in position, and none of mine are designed to secure to the over flow bottle specifically.

Which is the handiest connector to disconnect to stop the engine starting, injectors or on the fuel pump in the engine bay or such?
 
Hey, thanks for the tips.
Where did you disconnect the fuel pump to stop the engine firing when doing the glow plug test? I'm going to carry out this test.

My coolant pressure tester kit won't seal properly at the rad cap and let me hold a maintained pressure, typical.

Is the genuine Toyota head gasket a single layer type, as opposed to the multi layered gasket you see on more modern cars? I find it is difficult to pin point exactly where a multi layered gasket failed compared to a single type. I believe I can pressure the system by just blowing air via my air line blow gun into the over flow hose at the rad cap. If I pressure the system whilst doing the glow plug test it should push coolant into the glow plug port if the crack is there, and help show up a mist / spray more easily, I think?
The genuine Toyota gasket is a multi layered steel one.

Not sure how to do it from the overflow bottle though.
 
The genuine Toyota gasket is a multi layered steel one.

Not sure how to do it from the overflow bottle though.

I'll disconnect the pump connector then.

I might try test it with one of them dye testers too that detects co2 combustion gas in the coolant, the dye changes colour if co2 present.
 
I'll disconnect the pump connector then.

I might try test it with one of them dye testers too that detects co2 combustion gas in the coolant, the dye changes colour if co2 present.
I tried the dye colour thing (basic one from ebay), but it didnt detect any co2. My theory is mine was not a full gasket blown or head crack and only slow leak, there wasn’t sufficient Co2? But that is just for mine though.
As said, pressure test kit is the most convincing way for me, maybe worth looking for a test kit cap that fit the size of your radiator cap and try.
 
Here is a video of the smoke I see after the cruiser sits overnight, upon first start. Can we confirm this is coolant smoke or something else?


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NhvLcZ9pk3gTSJf0YBfChOEEU1Kdm60w/view?usp=drive_link

Also, can someone tell me please, as I'm still learning with all this google drive and icloud storage stuff, did I link to that individual file correctly and that I didn't link to my entire google drive? Is that video the only file on my account other folk can see?
 
I can't see it but then i can't sign in to google , whenever i'm forced to i open a new account then sign out and forget my login details
 
I can't see it but then i can't sign in to google , whenever i'm forced to i open a new account then sign out and forget my login details

Can only other people with a google drive account view the video linked? They have to be logged in?
How do I post a video that I can link for everyone to see?
Is there a handy program I can use to reduce my video size down from 40MB to 32MB so I can upload it to my ImgBB account and post the link from there as I usually do with pictures. Edit: I think ImgBB can only be used for images, could of sworn I uploaded videos to it before.

Is there a handy program / software I can use on a WIndows Pc to compress or reduce the video file so that I can upload it to the forum?
 
Last edited:
I could only see it when you let me
 
I could only see it when you let me
Cheers for letting me know. I got an email asking to confirm your request to access it.
I'll have to ask my IT mate about how to upload videos and linking to them, etc,, during the week.
 
YYY
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