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Cooling the 1KZ-TE motor:

You're not on your own Steve, I've had a tube of fan oil for months now, waiting for enough courage to get it into the unit!
I'll get round to it, for sure, but when.... that's another story!
 
I have a list of jobs to be done, but as the truck cant get in my garage, it will have to wait until summer is here, or I let the new 4x4 man I found do them for me!
 
looking at this thread and others of the same nature on different forums, the 1KZ-TE engine does suffer overheating problems causing head damage on all the various vehicle applications that Toyota fitted them.

all of our vehicles are the best part of twenty years old. on that i think we can all agree. ive heard of overheating issues on trucks which have done big milage and some which have done very little. this has been apparent in many different countries from some of the forum content i have read, indicating age is an issue. the whole problem hasnt be helped by the in accuracies which exsist in the trucks temprature gauge. this has been addressed and solved in some threads by the replacement of some very cheap resistors.

my thoughts are, and please believe me im no expert, that due to the age of our trucks , is it that due to their age, the coolant systems are giving up due to the collective failure of some of its components?

ive found that with no oil in the fan, a little wear in the water pump, thermostats almost twenty years old not opening enough/on time and radiators collecting over a decade of shit between the fins, engines can run a little warm. this, together with dodgy gauges and cheap/rubbish parts (chinese radiators) means alot of cracked heads?

im using question marks alot as i want this thread to be debated more as this is still a problem with this truck.

just a few thoughts. cheers.
 
looking at this thread and others of the same nature on different forums, the 1KZ-TE engine does suffer overheating problems causing head damage on all the various vehicle applications that Toyota fitted them.

all of our vehicles are the best part of twenty years old. on that i think we can all agree. ive heard of overheating issues on trucks which have done big milage and some which have done very little. this has been apparent in many different countries from some of the forum content i have read, indicating age is an issue. the whole problem hasnt be helped by the in accuracies which exsist in the trucks temprature gauge. this has been addressed and solved in some threads by the replacement of some very cheap resistors.

my thoughts are, and please believe me im no expert, that due to the age of our trucks , is it that due to their age, the coolant systems are giving up due to the collective failure of some of its components?

ive found that with no oil in the fan, a little wear in the water pump, thermostats almost twenty years old not opening enough/on time and radiators collecting over a decade of shit between the fins, engines can run a little warm. this, together with dodgy gauges and cheap/rubbish parts (chinese radiators) means alot of cracked heads?

im using question marks alot as i want this thread to be debated more as this is still a problem with this truck.

just a few thoughts. cheers.

I'm no expert but I don't think a little wear in both the thermostat or the water pump will have any marginal affect. Age relevance is correct any mainly linked to the radiator which doesn't cool as well as a newer unit. Over time the fins get damaged, less air flow through the rad, and dirt builds up in between the rad and AC rad. The Viscous fan does help a lot in cooling the engine down, especially in stop and go traffic. I've put 180,000 on my truck, and all I've replaced is the Radiator, nothing else in the cooling system other than the actual coolant and the truck keeps on going.

My "main" theory on why these engine's end up with cracked heads is due to excessive heat. Firstly, I believe having the feed at the bottom of the engine is a poor design as the top of the engine tends to get hotter than the bottom and you end up with a delay when the top needs to be cooled down and there's no cool water there yet - Problem 1. Secondly, these trucks put out high EGT standard which doesn't help cooling down a turbo'd engine. I've seen actual facts and temperature read out's of how much lower a after market down pipe/Exhaust system helps lower those EGT. An inter cooler helps massively in this area as well. Lastly, these trucks tend to run more on the leaner side from factory and from what I've read a leaner diesel engine burns hotter than a richer diesel engine, and thus excess heat for no real reason!

However even after writing all that, I still don't 100% agree with it. Why? Because when I bought my colorado 15/16 years ago it was couple years new, with about 30,000 easy miles on it. Ever since buying it I babied it, engine oil change every 3000 miles, kept the fuel system clean, filters changed regularly. Garaged all her life. Never towed. Yet one day driving on the motorway I noticed all of a sudden a slight rise in my temp and pulled over on to the hard shoulder. Bubbles coming out from the expansion tank..hmm puzzled. Let it cool down and drove home, temp ok. From this point on, it was using water, sipping it on my daily commutes to work and back but I still drove it with little knowledge of what was actually going on. Eventually it got worse, and you guessed it, I had a cracked head! 65,000 miles on the motor, no hard driving, I was puzzled. Must have been built on a friday? Until, few years down the line I joined the forum and realized I wasn't the only one! Anyway, for those of you wondering, I drove the car with the cracked head for about a year not knowing what damage it was actually doing. Eventually I had the head off, and realized the chambers were starting to corrode and pistons were rusting. Low millage Engine in from Japan and not a problem since. And I'll be honest with you, I've worked this engine a lot harder. Towing more than I should be towing, maxing out my speedometer, increased fueling and boost and she hasn't broken a sweat. I'll jump inside and drive half way across the world with her tomorrow!

So really, I'm a little lost. I know for a fact, high heat = cracked head. However I also know these heads can crack whenever they want to as well and I'm living proof. On the other hand I've seen loads of abused cruisers with the 1zkt/e engines going strong with a lot of miles on them. Same goes for the 2.4 which were also known for cracked heads. :shock:
 
So on the point of cheap radiators obviously EBay is to be avoided ?

The question is then, who sells a decent quality radiator, or is it Toyota only ?

cheers, Paul
 
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interesting Beau. you are right of course that the engines basic layout isnt good. i think Bob illustrated this really well in his initial post. having said that, how many new, and i mean under a few years old trucks do you hear of cooling problems? to my knowledge, and please tell me if im wrong, this problem exsists in older vehicles??

the point im trying to make is ...due to the fact that this engine has a poor cooling system layout, if you have one or two components which arent running at 100%, it shows itself more with this engine? the components in question are the fan, the thermostat and the radiator. the rad's poor siting means that the lower 6 inches can get caked up and you cannot tell. just changed my 1997 trucks original stat for a 76 deg one. testing the old 86 deg one, and it opened bang on temp but only partially opened. ive never changed stats as a matter of course but can we expect such a important component to operate thousands of times over almost twenty years all the time without fail??

my comment about cheap rads was meant to highlight the £60 ers on ebay. heard that some of these dont last too long. im a big believer that 'you get what you pay for'. the roughtrax ones are not much more and are excellent quality.
 
interesting Beau. you are right of course that the engines basic layout isnt good. i think Bob illustrated this really well in his initial post. having said that, how many new, and i mean under a few years old trucks do you hear of cooling problems? to my knowledge, and please tell me if im wrong, this problem exsists in older vehicles??

the point im trying to make is ...due to the fact that this engine has a poor cooling system layout, if you have one or two components which arent running at 100%, it shows itself more with this engine? the components in question are the fan, the thermostat and the radiator. the rad's poor siting means that the lower 6 inches can get caked up and you cannot tell. just changed my 1997 trucks original stat for a 76 deg one. testing the old 86 deg one, and it opened bang on temp but only partially opened. ive never changed stats as a matter of course but can we expect such a important component to operate thousands of times over almost twenty years all the time without fail??

my comment about cheap rads was meant to highlight the £60 ers on ebay. heard that some of these dont last too long. im a big believer that 'you get what you pay for'. the roughtrax ones are not much more and are excellent quality.

Yes, you make a good point. When I first suffered from this, I didn't hear about anyone else having the same problem but as time progressed it came a more apparent problem. However, in my original case, my cooling system was 100% and I still ended up with a cracked head, I can't explain it and either can someone else?

Changing the stat for a lower temp one and maintaining the cooling system in general should prove well, 99% of the time. I bought my replacement rad from Milner around 100 pounds which served well for a good 4 years now. If I had the money I would invest in a 3 core Aluminium rad to help even more with the cooling but couldn't justify the cost.
 
Not sure if this has been posted already in this thread, but I've just stumbled across it while looking for something else and thought it might be useful. :icon-biggrin:

Its a link showing how to modify the standard OEM temp gauge to read accurately. Its based on a Surf gauge but people have also done it on an 80 with good results.

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/tempgauge.htm

I admit i had no idea what this fan stuff was about until i found this so thumbs up to Mall :thumbup: looks like another for my to-do list :thumbdown: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ACx7GTCn7Y


Two excellent write ups here - I will attack both of these when I do my radiator change and coolant flush in the next few weeks. I think I will stick in a 76 degree thermostat too, as I will be doing a bit of towing (1600 kg boat) with my vehicle.
 
......Firstly, I believe having the feed at the bottom of the engine is a poor design as the top of the engine tends to get hotter than the bottom and you end up with a delay when the top needs to be cooled down and there's no cool water there yet - Problem 1.......


................ I've read a leaner diesel engine burns hotter than a richer diesel engine, and thus excess heat for no real reason! .......


a thermostat controlling the water coming into the engine is not unique to the KZ, it's used in lots of different engines without problem :think:


if a lean running diesel ran hot, they would melt at idle, and diesel tuning would be a piece of piss :lol:
 
a thermostat controlling the water coming into the engine is not unique to the KZ, it's used in lots of different engines without problem :think:


if a lean running diesel ran hot, they would melt at idle, and diesel tuning would be a piece of piss :lol:

Username_11, Thanks for the feedback. I generally hate doing this but I also hate to let things go ignored. If you read my post properly as well as other post in this section you'll read that what me and others have mentioned is not the fact that "thermostats" being used is unique. But the fact it's fed bottom to top. Does that make sense? If not, have a little search on google and it may help you understand better. :icon-rolleyes:

Lastly, that last point was more of a opinion based on what I've read on the internet, and testings I've actually done. If you have a look online you'll be surprised what you can learn. :whistle: But hay, you don't have to believe me. It's not like I've stripped every bolt off these engine multiple times and rebuilt them or anything, over the past 16 years of owning a cruiser! :thumbup:
 
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holy moly.. Sorry guys I completely forgotten about this thread. A recent issue has reminded me.

Well I have to say after much vigorous 4wd outings and lots of heavy towing to the city with car trailers (city is a 720 km drive from here) the top mount thermostat was defiantly a bloody good move. With fitted aftermarket top hose temp gauge there was no spiking of temps, once up to temp the gauge would hardly move past what the thermostat was (82 degrees). Even on hot days smashing it through very soft sand the highest temp I seen was 90 degrees! Pushing it up hills while towing was the same.

BUT.... about 5 months ago I started getting issues that resembled a cracked head. The use of chemi weld kept it going so I could still go fishing etc.

This is how it panned out.. One day I was towing just a small 6x4 trailer with bugger all in it home from the shed, no hills, no pushing it and as I went to turn the corner into home I noticed my temp gauge had shot up past 110 degrees.. I rolled into home and got the hose onto the radiator and waited for it to cool before taking the cap off. Filled it back up (yes it had lost coolant!) with water slowly while it idled and didn't have an issue again for about 1 1/2 months later.
That's when the hesitant idle on start up and steam out the exhaust started... It would only do it for a bit at start up and then go away, so off I would go. But then it started getting worse, grey oil slushy under the oil cap.. Great. So I put chemi weld and that solved the issue so I knew I had a bloody cracked, drove it again. But one fishing trip it got hot and was not cooling properly.. Turned out I had a heap of crud blocking the tubes at the top of the radiator. Maybe I stuffed up with the chemi weld?
I pulled the radiator and reverse flushed it, put it back in and filled it up. Damn thing wouldn't get over 85 degrees no matter how hard I pushed it. So I know my cooling system with top mounted thermostat works well.

I've decided I was going to rebuild, so I parked it up and have been using my light truck to get around. I am missing the beach and excursions off road.
So I've pulled the head off... #3 looks like it's had a hell of a time with major pitting, cracks from the pre comp chamber to the center. All of them are cracked between the valves.
Had a friend who's a diesel mechanic in the mines look at it, he rekons that the head would have been cracked previous and possibly the previous owner had used chemi weld or some other stuff to 'fix' the problem. hrmm...

Anyways, I have pulled the rest of the engine out and I am going to do a rebuild. I picked up 2 earlier 1kzte's of unknown condition and luckily 1 of them has a good head on it. So I'll use that on mine.

I am going to keep with the top mounted thermostat, because as far as I am concerned it worked perfectly.
But I am going to intercool it (water to air intercooler) and make a 3" dump pipe for it. As they seem the best next mods to do to the engine. That stock dump pipe does look horrid!


Now the next thing I am thinking..... those blocked off ports on the head gasket....

From research the heads appear to crack between the valves and from the pre comp chamber.. That's the inlet side of the head. The inlet side of the head has the blocked off ports with the head gasket.
All the head has for any sort of coolant flow on the inlet side is those small holes coming up from the oil cooler, and that coolant will be heated by the engine oil. They come out behind the pre comp chamber.
Now I really feel that if the other ports where open then there would be more cooling on that side of the head. I'm not talking about opening them right up, but maybe a simular sized hole to the others on that side (~5mm), just to get some flow happening on that side of the head.
These engines were designed in and for a colder climate. It gets prity hot down here. I know it's hell of an experiment to try, but looking at all the pictures and head cut a ways etc. I really feel there needs to be more cooling on the inlet side of the head.

Sorry for the big dribble.. coffee kicked in. I am now one of the cracked head members I guess and I would like to solve the issue.
 
Now the next thing I am thinking..... those blocked off ports on the head gasket....

I would be careful . .

I used to run a Series III Land Rover with the later 2.5 litre petrol engine. It got very hot when towing so I opened up some of the blanked-off holes in the head gasket. It didn't help and I ended up destroying the motor while towing horses up a long, steep hill on the hottest day of the year (cracked head and block :doh:).

I suspect those small holes in the Toyota head gasket are there to prevent air locks rather than allow coolant flow (but I may be wrong). My worry would be that if you upset the coolant flow by effectively short-circuiting it the rear cylinders may overheat.

I'll be very interested to hear how you get on with it :icon-wink:.

Bob.
 
Hi Bob. Those small holes in your original post/s do not 'vent' directly from the oil cooler on the side of the block.
Coolant flows from the pump through the oil cooler jacket and back into the block surrounding the cylinders via 3 main holes half way up the oil cooling jacket and 2 extra holes near the rear, then flow is forced up through the head and it's various galleries to either a. back to the thermostat via the bypass hole, or b. if bypass is closed across the front of the head to the outlet pipe to the radiator.

The small holes and larger ones blocked off by the head gasket are with in the same cavity in the block. It's the inlet side that gets hot surrounding the pre comp chambers... So to me the inlet side of the head isn't cooled as efficiently as the exhaust side.
It does appear through my pushing wire and shining light exercises that where the small holes go into the head is also the same cavity via small 'tunnels' i'll call them as the holes that are blocked off at the head gasket.
 
I am looking forward to seeing your results from changing the dump pipe as i only have the factory temp gauge but having added a 3" turbo back exhaust it may as well be a different engine . Beau is correct about heat increase through running lean - something to bear in mind if adding an intercooler .
 
Every bit of research I've done and working with diesel equipment in the mines I have the belief that a diesel will run hotter if richer, this is where monitoring EGT's comes in handy if playing with your fuel and air. Everything you read mentions that a leaner burn on a diesel is a cooler burn. Diesels run better when lean seems to the be basic understanding everyone I know and sites I've used for research.

I've had much more hands on with boosting petrol engines over the past 20 years, and you defiantly don't wont lean out there. haha I'm a Toyota 4age fan. Love boosting them. :)

Adding a intercooler will be far better than without, goes without saying on any boosted combustion engine IMO. Cooler charge air = denser charge air = more oxygen = better burn which in turn can produce more power and or better economy.

Yes everyone that's put a larger aftermarket dump pipe on has remarked on noticeably lower EGT temps. So there is a deffinate benefit there over the stock bottleneck they have. Makes sense anyways to get the heated gasses out as quick as possible. I am going to make a 3" dump pipe but stick to a 2.5" exhaust system.

Another thing that I have seen discussed on a couple other forums is inlet design. Is there an issue of unequal air flow to all cylinder? Can that cause an issue? I'm sure that the Toyota engineers are the full bottle when it comes to designing and building their engines, but not always are they designed for the intended use of towing etc. more so than meeting ever stricter emission controls...

I'm not after some power monster from my 1kzte. I just want reliability, but still be able to tow the mr2 in the trailer ~2.5 tonne when ever and where ever I want to. Plus the gruelling soft beach excursion and fishing trips I am accustom to where I live. :)
 
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As (some) others have said, diesels run hotter when rich, cooler when lean, exactly the opposite of petrol engines, it's just physics. Increasing the fuelling alone on a diesel will obviously richen the mixture and give more power but will also increase the amount of afterburn occurring in the exhaust manifold meaning the EGT's will increase dramatically. The only way to get the EGT's under control with the same fuelling rate is to get more air through the engine, i.e., lean out the mixture which means increasing the boost on a TD but the very act of increasing boost pressure also increases intake air temp so that's why an IC becomes necessary. If you're in any doubt that more fuel = more power just watch a truck racing event and observe the huge amounts of black smoke they emit which bears witness to the massive amounts of diesel being fed through the engine. If a diesel engine is still overheating after leaning off the fuelling then it must have other issues IMO.
 
Well for me its a choice between black smoke on start up and a temperature gauge that never moves , or less smoke and a temperature gauge that will climb when i push hard on long motorway journeys hence the fuel remains turned up . I need to move the manifold pressure and air intake temperature sensors up to the retro fitted intercooler which may have something to do with it .
 
Alot of interesting reading in this topic :thumbup:

Does this mean that us Prado owners that have the factory intercooler have a different fueling setup to the Colorados wiether it be in the ECU, different fuel pump, injectors etc ?
 
Someone tried to swap the ecu between the two without success so that must be different and the factory cooler adds about 15 horses so it seems unlikely much else is different ?
 
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