Elecronic Diesel Tuning Devices

[Shayne]

Power loss feels almost like a slipping clutch yeah ?

Truck can't breath its air not fuel you need to look at .

 

[Shayne]

Hang on i may have that wrong struggling to remember in what order i did things and i think the air thing had something to do with my exhaust .

I have never had the fuel cut on me yet so i can't say i'm afraid . Forgive me for saying it but you do have the controller piped in correctly , i put mine in back to front the first time because i was thinking more about where to bolt the bracket than the actual purpose of it .

 

[Beau]

It's actually a bit more harsh than a slipping clutch.

If I put my foot down from standstill, it revs through first well as load on the turbo isn't as high. As soon as second comes and it's at 2600 rpm, there is a loss in power and the RPM's will harshly judder/bounce and gradually climbs. I guess this is as boost comes back below limit, and then back over limit.

I managed to trigger the check engine light by consecutively making the engine do this so I'm fairly certain the engine is boosting beyond it's limit. This will mean I can't run the Controller, at least not this one.

And yes, I have it run correctly. Might get a gauge and actually see whats going on

 

[Shayne]

Sounds likely you are boosting to the moon . I would remove the washer mod which might have you pretty much on limit any way and keep the controller . At least then the money you have spent improves things by at least removing wastegate creep .

 

[Beau]

Ok, so I hooked up a gauge and my suspicions were confirmed.

Turbo is trying to boost to 15 psi and it seems as though the limit is 14psi when the ECU interferes and cuts fuel. This only really occurs under hard acceleration in 2nd and 3rd gear.

It seems that when cruising at motorway speeds, boost is constant around 10-11psi, until you demand a bit more speed (put some load on the engine) and then boost is peaking at around 14psi. For example on a flat doing 80mph boost is at a good 10-11psi, until I approach a hill and demand a little more power, boost reach 14psi and holds it there until I back off a little.

Shayne, Do you know what you're boosting at at similar speeds?

 

[Shayne]

Its a long time since i paid attention to the gauge but what you describe sounds about right .

I'm a little down on power at mo so washed out my air filter today and if i can get a fuel filter tomorrow i might have a little play with fueling and boost because i have not yet taken it to 14 or beyond .

I imagine my new turbo is well run in by now .

 

[Beau]

Good news!

Did some more tinkering and managed to solve multiple issues today.

Firstly, like I said above, even with the controller set on the minimum setting the turbo was still boosting at 14-15psi with the ECU kicking in... So I removed the controller and boost was now peaking at 14psi with no interruption from the ECU. Only major difference I noted was at cruising speed it would only hold about 9-10psi, compared to 12psi with the controller (guessing this is boost creep on the waste gate).

So the only way forward was to tricking the ECU and limiting the amount of boost the MAP sensor could see. Did a little research and came up with an idea. I put a T piece on the line just before the map sensor and put a needle valve off that T. This valve is used to bleed off a slight pressure in the line just before pressure goes to the MAP sensor. So what's really happening is the MAP sensor is seeing 14PSI max boost safely whilst I'm able of boosting at 16PSI without any ECU interfering. Will post up pictures tomorrow when I tidy it all up.

Won't be pushing it more boost wise until I get temp/EGT gauge installed but from just driving the truck she feels very good on the top end now - which was what was lacking before. Pulls strong all the way to red line.

On a side note, I don't know if you remember but on my other thread I was still having a problem with my truck giving a stuttering feeling between 70-80mph. This is now gone. Which means that it was a boost issue. I imagine at that speed when at load boost was just about above 14PSI and triggering the ECU to interfere. So I'm pretty glad I fixed that!

This confirms that somehow with the head/turbo port work I did, made boost increase slightly by itself without any additional mods. My guess is the turbo is flowing a lot quicker now. Makes me wonder how much better she'll get with a decent exhaust

 

[Shayne]

Well done mate

I guess the immediate question of EGT's is not really a worry given the fuel air mix must be very lean on full boost which should keep the temp down , but still i would be wary of it given the appalling design of the 1kz down pipe .

I would think the porting just allowed the turbo to spool up faster and i suppose that could up the pressure a little while working against a slow mechanical wastegate . How thick a washer did you use for the wastegate mod ?

Mine will pull strong past 80mph and i start feeling sympathetic on long journeys when the revs hit about 2700 and i'm only boosting at a vague 13psi .

To quote the mrs "it doesn't like going 30mph" its got character alright feels like a pitbull on a choke chain while toodling around town .

Get the exhaust mate you will never regret it .

 

[Beau]

Yeah, from the little research I've done it seems that in simple terms more boost, but no increase in fuel leans out the mixture and can lower EGT's (to a point). I can't really remember what size washer I used, I'm thinking 2mm maybe. But before the port work I never went into the ECU boost limit, when after the port work I did.

Here's some pictures of what I did... I think in time I will replace the needle valve with something more suitable as there's no way of locking in the valve. I've also placed a check valve after as IF these engine do produce vacuum off boost I don't want any air to be sucked back in. Overall pretty cheap and easy install.

Also included some pics of the removal of the butterfly valve, and I also got a good friend of mine to weld up the side of the smaller valve area as that was leaking - seems to be a common issue over time.

 

[Shayne]

ECU controls fueling so will only add enough to keep the mix right at 14psi hence lean full boost .

Don't think i can use a needle valve because my boost sensor is screwed into the intercooler and i remember being very happy when i moved it up there from its original place on the intake so i'm not keen to put it back just for a couple more psi .

I have always felt i should have removed the smaller butterfly at the same time as removing the big one , i reckon its purpose it to make room for when the egr decides to fire some extra gas in . So i've no need of that any more and if i get around to removing it i might be tempted to cut out the housing that separates them as well .

Do be careful though mate more is only better when the engine can cope and i have a niggling ........ erm ..... suspicion ? that pre turbo and post turbo egt's on these might be the same due to the down pipe design .
I may be wrong of course but that wouldn't bode well for the aluminium in between if it were true .

 

[Beau]

The needle valve us used just before the MAP sensor as the aim is to bleed off pressure just before it gets to the sensor, so no need to move the location of the actual sensor,you just need to T off before it.

I felt no real difference removing the smaller one, it's the main one that made a noticeable difference. With a turbo engine I don't think flow through the manifolds/head are AS important as a non turbo engine that relies heavily on a vacuum to draw the air into the engine.

Yeah, I won't be upping more boost or fuel anytime soon, until I either get a EGT gauge or exhaust upgrade. The more research I do, the more I'm inclined to do water injection over a IC as results show a substantial cooling advantage using water injection.

 

[Shayne]

I use the map sensor that was already in the intercooler which is basically a spark plug with 2 wires coming off it i suppose i could fit a valve if i could find a hose connection of the same thread size as the sensor .

The exhaust to turbo flange is the bit that will make fabricators grumble it's not complicated just time consuming for them , you could use a gasket as a template to make that bit yourself .

Honestly if you do the exhaust it will feel like you have pulled a limiting plug out from somewhere .

 

[Beau]

hmm Post a pic of this MAP sensor you're refering to Shayne? From the sounds of it it doesn't sound like one, normally MAP sensors have three wires coming out from it?

This is the MAP sensor on my 1kz.



Luckily I've found a guy local to me who has a 1kz and he's really nifty with a welding machine and fabricating. He actually has a exhaust flange that he's given me to try and replicate so I'll be working on that, and then the down pipe, just need to make a start on it!

 

[Shayne]

Yeah that's what i have on the intake but i cut the wires and connected them up to the sensor that came already fitted to the second hand intercooler , i think the coolers from a Surf myself ?

Something like this

 

[Beau]

correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks to be a temperature sensor?

 

[Shayne]

Yeah the pic is just a quick find to give the general idea . To be honest i can no longer remember what the sensor looks like but i did begin to wonder if it was a temperature sensor during my search for a suitable connector which felt like digging for gold with a lollipop stick .

I'm unsure what vehicle the intercooler was originally fitted to and would you believe a quick google now when it doesn't matter just gave me this http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/...esso-intercooler-toyota-hilux-30-diesel-b-_JM

 

[Steve H]

Hi Beau. That sensor looks like the boost sensor on my truck. Is it on the front end of the inlet manifold?
Mine was blocked at the filter a while back and I lost a bit of top end power until I cleaned it out. Have sinced replaced it after blanking off the EGR valve

 

[Steve H]

Shayne my inter cooler came off a non D4D Colorado yr 2000 I believe. The last of the KZJ engines had them fitted to help with cooling . The Aussies still had these engines in the 120 series with inter coolers and a different pump. I went to look at one in a local dealers and was surprised when I opened the bonnet and saw the engine. Went well though.

 

[Shayne]

The Prado 90 had an intercooler as standard as well but i could not for the life of me find a new sensor or loom plug when i wanted one . Even Simon Holton at Toyota was stumped . Everything works well now anyway so its by the by . Did you ever get around to fitting yours Steve ?

 

[Steve H]

Only fitted the brackets so far. Shed collapsed and nearly crushed it just after Christmas so until I rebuild that and the fence all work on truck stopped unless necessary . I say shed but 12ftx10ft workshop size.