front axle seals

[Roger Fairclough]

The stud has fallen out .

Your first picture---as has been pointed out---indicates the possibility that the arm to the hub is loose. As well as needing to replace the lost stud/nut, you would be prudent to replace the other 3.

Roger

 

[Red Oktober]

yup .. i'm just after the one at the mo roger ... I have to get it back on the road for hospital appointments etc ... I am the only driver in my family and the missus parents are both elderly

 

[Justin_Elliott]

For the studs: Mr T was quite reasonable if I recall.... Also stocked by Milner (http://www.milneroffroad.com/toyota...ntrear-0/hdj80-steering-swivel-housing-stud-0) - obviously you'll also need the nuts/washers etc.. as per exploded diagram earlier in this thread.

A quick 'get you home fix' to reinstall the stud is all well and good but a full strip and clean up of the hub is required to give you peace of mind and reliability IMO. As Chris (and others) have said I'd suggest you tackle this as one larger (1/2 day?) job to prevent you needing to go back in there.

 

[grantw]

Is that a typo on Milners site in regards to numbers? From the parts explosion it only looks like there are 4 required per side?

EDIT: They say both 4 and 8 required both side ... so definitely a typo!

 

[Red Oktober]

new bits on their way

 

[Bat21]

Is that a typo on Milners site in regards to numbers? From the parts explosion it only looks like there are 4 required per side?

EDIT: They say both 4 and 8 required both side ... so definitely a typo!

No typo, it says:-

• 4 x Required per side (lower only).
• A Genuine part which fits to the top and bottom of the front axle swivel housing. Eight required each side.

Both statements correct

 

[Red Oktober]

hmmm maybe I should go an buy a lotto ticket ......

I have just been out to check the remaining 3 nuts .... yup .. they were all loose .. 2 of which were almost out (the next shock/drain/pot-hole would've finished them off)

 

[Chris]

I stripped mine and chemically cleaned the holes out. Well I used ever spray can I could find. Easy start, brake cleaner, contact cleaner etc the blasted them out with air. I then stud locked the studs in. It's not the nuts that come off generally. It's the whole stud that unwinds.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

As Chris says, getting the studs to stay put is the challenge. You need those holes to be very clean and thread lock them. I'm sure I remember someone has done it on the truck but my preference would be to fetch the swivel off and do it on the bench where I can be sure no more grease has snuck down the hole and while it's off you might as well change the seals on that side and check all the bearings

 

[Roger Fairclough]

I stripped mine and chemically cleaned the holes out. Well I used ever spray can I could find. Easy start, brake cleaner, contact cleaner etc the blasted them out with air. I then stud locked the studs in. It's not the nuts that come off generally. It's the whole stud that unwinds.

I ditto that.

Roger

 

[Roger Fairclough]

As Chris says, getting the studs to stay put is the challenge. You need those holes to be very clean and thread lock them. I'm sure I remember someone has done it on the truck but my preference would be to fetch the swivel off and do it on the bench where I can be sure no more grease has snuck down the hole and while it's off you might as well change the seals on that side and check all the bearings

And that.

Roger

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Two nuts tightened together lock the stud into place with a smear of loctite. Then loctite the nut to the correct torque.

Never had one loosen on my 70.

Roger

 

[Gary820]

That could've been nasty!

 

[Chris]

The later ones came with a spline drive on the end so that you could seat them nice and tightly without the lock-nut-eroony trick that Roger mentioned. Clearly these are the best greased bolts on the whole truck. No wonder they drop out!

 

[Roger Fairclough]

lock-nut-eroony

Roger