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iwan's hdj81

I recon you could get enough topcoat on to seal anything that needs sealing, then wrap over. It won't need to be a good topcoat finish. :thumbup:

The primer looks good from here (I'm in Turkey again!) with one eye shut :lol:
 
So Stu... after Clive saying to leave plenty of wrap at the bottom and sides of the doors.
My issue on the base of the doors is that they were quite rusty and I removed the factory sealant plus treated the rust.
I'm going to reseal with tiger seal, then smooth with a paint brush with thinners. So how will the wrap react to sticking to smoothed tiger seal?


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Just a thought...:think:
 
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I recon you could get enough topcoat on to seal anything that needs sealing, then wrap over. It won't need to be a good topcoat finish. :thumbup:

The primer looks good from here (I'm in Turkey again!) with one eye shut :lol:

Good point Clive also if I make runs.. I can cut them flat... thanks man:thumbup:
 
Only have experience of wrapping over sikaflex type sealer and this was fine as long as it was set properly.
 
So Stu... after Clive saying to leave plenty of wrap at the bottom and sides of the doors.
My issue on the base of the doors is that they were quite rusty and I removed the factory sealant plus treated the rust.
I'm going to reseal with tiger seal, then smooth with a paint brush with thinners. So how will the wrap react to sticking to smoothed tiger seal? Just a thought...:think:

If it's smooth and you give it coat of topcoat, the wrap won't know the difference (will it? :eusa-shhh:)
 
Only have experience of wrapping over sikaflex type sealer and this was fine as long as it was set properly.

SAE Steven was telling me that sikaflex was the same composition as tiger seal. So should be onto a winner :thumbup:
 
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If it's smooth and you give it coat of topcoat, the wrap won't know the difference (will it? :eusa-shhh:)

Possibly could wrap around the edge and follow on to behind the inner door card. ... will see what the nature of the beast is with this wrapping shenanigans :think:
 
Lots of tight fold just get it nice and hot but not to hot to melt.
 
I think the distance to the door card is overdoing it a tad, but a 10mm wrap wouldn't go amiss. You can get away with 5mm if it's thin film, but just be wary that's likely to be where it starts to lift over time.
 
I see cause at the base of the door is my worry. If it lifts then the water travel could sit in "the pocket" and further rust and decay can continue. Good point there. As my factory seal strip had lifted and was detached as such. Best place to stop the wrap could be on the factory outer fold on the inside then maybe seal with my original method but sealing over the wrap also..:think:
 
Epoxy Primer will do all you require. Seal and protect, its not porous and can be flatted back as much as you desire to a sheen if required
 
I see cause at the base of the door is my worry. If it lifts then the water travel could sit in "the pocket" and further rust and decay can continue. Good point there. As my factory seal strip had lifted and was detached as such. Best place to stop the wrap could be on the factory outer fold on the inside then maybe seal with my original method but sealing over the wrap also..:think:

You got it mate :thumbup: happy wrapping!
 
Had another hit on it today. . Spent the morning fettling up any in perfections in the primer...
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Poor phone pic but got a top coat on the primer work. One run on the drivers side after starting and getting carried away on the passenger side.. a few too many runs there lol!

Well its black!! Im liking it!!:icon-cool:
 
Are you sure you couldn't just paint it Iwan i always wondered how they get such a perfect finish until i noticed the pro's spend a day with an electric polisher getting rid of imperfections after it's painted .
 
Are you sure you couldn't just paint it Iwan i always wondered how they get such a perfect finish until i noticed the pro's spend a day with an electric polisher getting rid of imperfections after it's painted .

Its a very good point Shayne. Yesterday when I heard that it was better to put a top coat on... I thought sheet I've just bought the wrap! !! The main reason was that I can go panel by panel with the wrap and hopefully by the time I've done the sides I've gained the experience to do the roof etc!

I think the wrap would have a more consistent finish. There was a lot of making good of the lower sides so either way some paint and primer was needed to sort the issues etc. My mate Matt came round to check it out tonight and he reminded me that this truck was bought in as a breaker! I then realised its come a long way after being reminded lol..:icon-cool:

I'm keen now to see the outcome!!!:thumbup:
 
Don't get me wrong i'm looking forward to seeing the wrap i kinda like black :thumbup:
 
Are you sure you couldn't just paint it Iwan i always wondered how they get such a perfect finish until i noticed the pro's spend a day with an electric polisher getting rid of imperfections after it's painted .


Thats only bad painters Shayne. Pros are straight out of the gun shine. With the right paint and prep in a booth you should get a top finish.
 
Thats only bad painters Shayne. Pros are straight out of the gun shine. With the right paint and prep in a booth you should get a top finish.


And thats why i didn't show a pic of the passenger side!!!! Lol:eusa-shhh:

No problemo my friend Shayne!!:thumbup:
 
Painting is really not easy to grasp. I learnt to spray when i had 6 coaches to paint in 5 days so in for a penny. They were ok some good some terrible but we have to start somewhere.

The key is flowing paint, heat it up or use thinners, thin coat let it go off then a nice thick one.
Stu
 
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