On Wednesday I had to drive for 5 hours in the mighty 60 series!
The hand throttle in the 60 series works really well as a crude, poor mans cruise control.
In the 70 you turn the knob to increase the engine revs then turn it the other way to back it off and it doesnt go high enough to increase the revs enough to cruise at 60-70mph.
But in the 60 you just pull the knob and the engine revs increase, and then to back it off you just turn is 1/8th of a turn and it pushes in and the revs go to full throttle!
So I'm planning on sourcing a 60 series hand throttle to fit to LJ as on long journeys it is much more comfortable to be able to take your feet off both pedals.
I finished the Suzuki winch bar I've been making.
I finally got around to converting one of my grinders from 4.5" to 5". All the grinders and discs at work and TAFE use 5" and I've got a load of flap wheel discs that I got from a carboot sale years ago that I want to be able to use.
So I cut my old guard and hammered the edge down flat.
Cut the ends off.
Cut and bent some 2mm sheet.
And welded it on with the TIG.
I called Chris at FNB and he was very helpful and gave me a great price on some 80 series rear shocks for the front of LJ. They got delivered less than 24 hours later, despite Chris being in a different state! Thanks a lot mate, great service.
Went for EFS after hearing good things about them from a number of people.
I needed to extend the shock brackets so that I could bolt them on lower down for more strength.
I cut some more 6mm plate and prepared the weld joint for a double V butt joint for maximum root penetration and strength.
Clamped the 2 pieces in place to avoid distortion.
Welded one side and then flipped it over.
And welded the other side.
I picked up some M18 bolts to secure the shock mounts in place bolted through the original shock mounts. I went for button head as I hoped it would give me enough clearance for the shocks.
Welds ground down and bolts in place.
Bolted in place.
Now I messed up slightly here in that I wrongly presumed that there would be enough room for button head bolts and the shock. But there isnt.
I'm now thinking I will extend the brackets down each side of the turret and bolt it on lower down and do away with those M18 bolts through the original shock mounts.
It would have been a lot easier had I just cut all the old suspension mounts off the chassis and axle and started again. But as I'm trying to keep it all bolt on so I can always return it to standard if I want to which makes things more complicated, but I'm still confident moving the front axle 50mm further forwards and mounting different shocks and springs will work.
I wanted to add some gussets to the panhard rod mount to make it stronger.
I needed to get a new bottom radiator hose as the old one I was using wasnt a perfect fit and had put strain on the bottom hose outlet on the rad and had caused it to leak.
I decided to cut up the genuine new KZJ70 bottom rad hose as the middle sections was just a little bit too long.
Taped it back together and it fitted perfectly.
Compared to the one I had been using its clear to see it was totally wrong. It also looked like slightly smaller diameter hose.
I took this to my local automotive parts shop.
And they let me behind the counter so I could go through all of their hoses so I could find something the same shape and size.
I found 2 hoses that looked like they would work and also bought some coolant.
One hose is actually a petrol 80 series top hose. I like the idea of keeping it Toyota and these hoses are Aussie made!
The other hose was a Ford one and I thought I could cut out the middle section
if the 80 series one didnt fit.
The 80 series one fitted perfectly!
So I will take the Ford one back and swap it for another 80 series one as I want to carry spare rad hoses in LJ at all times.
My boss very kindly said I could borrow the tube bender and a MIG welder.
Tube bender.
Started bending some tube up for the arches.
My original idea was to try and return the end of each piece of tube back to the edge of the inner arch, but one of my bends ended up at slightly the wrong angle so I tried heating it up to see if I could bend it slightly in the vice.
It didn't work so I opted to just cut it off and weld it back on.
I used a wire cup on the grinder to clean the paint off along the edge of the wing where I would weld the 2mm sheet steel on.
I cut and bent some 2mm sheet steel.
I'm not 100% happy with this first arch and I may end up redoing it. I learnt a lot from doing it though which will make the others easier, quicker and better.
Next one.
drum section removed.
Bolted a piece of 2mm steel in place.
Started bedning some tube.
Started welding the 2 pieces together.
Very pleased with the welder its a great little machine.
I'm very pleased with how this one went.
I also needed to weld up the cracks in the passenger door.
Other rear arch next.
Bent some 2mm.
Started bending some tube.
Had to work inside due to the horrible Melbourne winter weather.
I wasnt 100% happy with this piece of tube, even though all the bends were good, it ended up being too short.
This is how the other side looks and what I wanted this side to be like.
So I bent another piece.
Which this time fitted perfectly.
Needed to trim the 2mm sheet steel back a bit.
So this is how LJ is looking now.
Then it was time to go party!
Last night was an amazing night!
Dutch Trance DJ Armin Van Burren was amazing when he brought his world tour to a stadium in Melbourne!
I'm hoping to getthe other front arch done on LJ tomorrow and finish welding all the other arches. I also need to weld the feet onto the roof rack.
Really need to get LJ resprayed and back together ASAP as I've got a load of building work to do for people to get some cash in before my holiday next month, which I will be doing at weekends.
And with just over 5 weeks till my trip I really need to get LJ back on the road.
