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LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
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- Oct 13, 2010
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karl webster said:Looking good ben
Really taking shape.
Karl
sae70 said:Interesting read Ben
thanks guys, missed your posts before.
TonyP said:
I think that's how they work Andy, could do with a box round them to make sure the drawer contents can't shift and get in the way and lock you out.
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yes John is correct! 
they clamp against the piece of 10mm x 10mm bar i bolted to the underside of the top.
John i was thinking that last night, that if i was perhaps stuck going up a hill, and wanted to open the drawer(s) then i may not be able to because there could/would be stuff up against the mechanism.
going to make some sort of a bolt on cage/box around the mechanism's i think.
they clamp against the piece of 10mm x 10mm bar i bolted to the underside of the top.
John i was thinking that last night, that if i was perhaps stuck going up a hill, and wanted to open the drawer(s) then i may not be able to because there could/would be stuff up against the mechanism.
going to make some sort of a bolt on cage/box around the mechanism's i think.
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picked up a 12volt 40AMP relay today form maplins, so i can wire the electric fan up tomorrow.
cut a piece of ply.
and screwed it in place.
other side.
screwed in place.
so thats the drawer system almost done.
need to add some thing on the back of the latches. might also add a divider in the big drawer and re organise it a bit. want to try and find a suitable tool box that will fit inside the drawer.
i took the spare out and the high lift.
the huge 6" x 9" speakers ive acquired will be going in the space either side of the drawer system.
cut a piece of ply. having to do it in 2 pieces as i hadnt got a long enough piece to do it in one.
marked out the hole for the speaker.
cut it out.
speaker fitted perfectly.
screwed in place.
couldnt resist temporarily connecting it to see what it sounded like.
very impressed with the sound and the base.
so this weekend i want to:-
-wire up the electric fan to run off one of my carling switches.
-remove the transfercase lever, bend it to the correct angle, so that it doesnt fowl the transmission tunnel, and re-fit.
-fit other piece of ply and speaker and wire up.
my next project then is to rebuild the centre console/arm rest. got a few ideas to improve it. also thinking of moving the CB radio to the roof, above the windscreen.
then next week i want to get the new steering guard built, and once thats done want to get the gearbox guard built.
not sure what im going to do after that, but im sure i will find something.
cut a piece of ply.
and screwed it in place.
other side.
screwed in place.
so thats the drawer system almost done.
need to add some thing on the back of the latches. might also add a divider in the big drawer and re organise it a bit. want to try and find a suitable tool box that will fit inside the drawer.
i took the spare out and the high lift.
the huge 6" x 9" speakers ive acquired will be going in the space either side of the drawer system.
cut a piece of ply. having to do it in 2 pieces as i hadnt got a long enough piece to do it in one.
marked out the hole for the speaker.
cut it out.
speaker fitted perfectly.
screwed in place.
couldnt resist temporarily connecting it to see what it sounded like.
very impressed with the sound and the base.
so this weekend i want to:-
-wire up the electric fan to run off one of my carling switches.
-remove the transfercase lever, bend it to the correct angle, so that it doesnt fowl the transmission tunnel, and re-fit.
-fit other piece of ply and speaker and wire up.
my next project then is to rebuild the centre console/arm rest. got a few ideas to improve it. also thinking of moving the CB radio to the roof, above the windscreen.
then next week i want to get the new steering guard built, and once thats done want to get the gearbox guard built.
not sure what im going to do after that, but im sure i will find something.
Red Oktober
Well-Known Member
Proper job ben
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1,106
Morning Ben.
Just a thought. Do you have access to your rear window washer bottle?
Roger
Just a thought. Do you have access to your rear window washer bottle?
Roger
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
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no, but it doesnt seem to be working properly anyway. 
ive tried a few times to get it working, but no joy. i can hear the pump trying to pump the screen wash through, and if i remove the sprayer/nozel from the end screen wash does some times come through, but not always.
i tried changing the nozel, but that didnt fix the problem.
maybe it needs a new piece of hose, from the pump to the nozel.
if i do get it working the reservoir is full, so should last a while.
will have an update later with a few pics on my latest project.
ive tried a few times to get it working, but no joy. i can hear the pump trying to pump the screen wash through, and if i remove the sprayer/nozel from the end screen wash does some times come through, but not always.
i tried changing the nozel, but that didnt fix the problem.
maybe it needs a new piece of hose, from the pump to the nozel.
if i do get it working the reservoir is full, so should last a while.
will have an update later with a few pics on my latest project.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
8am start today! 
cut a piece of ply for the other side.
marked out for the speaker.
jig-sawed it out, screwed the speaker in place, and then re-fitted the piece of ply in place.
fitted the grill.
and other side.
next i turned my attention to the centre console.
i used a plank of timber, to see if the top of the drawer system is a comfortable height, which it is.
Roger commented the other day, about the fact the spare wheel and high lift jack could be very dangerous not strapped down, in the event of a roll over.
this got me thinking.
the high lift doesnt get used very often, normally just for changing wheels when i get punctures. so ive decided to keep it behind the front seats.
its easily accessible by sliding and tilting one of the seats forward.
so i decided to build the centre console with this in mind.
cut first piece of ply, and then spent a while scribing it to the shape of the floor.
stood in position.
it will finish flush with the ply on top of the drawer system.
used the first piece as a template for the other piece.
all cut and ready to be assembled.
in position.
needed to route the speaker cables so they wouldnt get damaged, especially by the high lift jack.
drilled a hole in the centre, pulled the cables through, and then tied them in a not, to prevent them from pulling back through the hole and sagging down.
added some brackets to fix the console in place.
the bottom is screwed in place each side, via a bracket that was already fitted that even had holes in the right place.
routed the cables through the console.
attached a small piece to the top. this is what the lift up arm rest will mount to via a piece of piano hinge.
managed to fit some of my maps in the front area.
and a few other bits and pieces in the other area.
mounted the burner on the front.
routed all the cables through, and connected the speakers up to the head unit.
removed the interior light.
and after removing a few other bits and pieces from around the roof i was able to pull the head lining down a bit so i could see the roof.
i wasnt impressed to find that the roof is single skin above the windscreen with no other brace pieces going across, to which to mount my cb radio to.
undeterred i started routing the cables anyway.
gently pealed back the material that covers the A pillar to the side of the windscreen. this was glued in place all the way down the edge.
its also held in place with a few of these spring clips.
managed to route an aerial cable and power cable all the way up the pillar, across the roof and down through a hole next to the interior light. this hole had a plastic bung in it which when removed gives access to one of the bolts that hold the sunroof in place.
managed to pull the material taught and stick it all back in place.
so................i had to come up with a way of attaching the cb radio. after a few minutes looking at the roof, i decided that the only threaded holes already there which i could make use of, were the 2 that the rear view mirror attaches to, and one that the interior light/sunroof control attaches to.
but it would need an unusual shaped bracket for it to work.
found a sheet of stainless steel in the shed. 2mm thick, looks like an old table top.
cut a piece off, and then found some blocks of wood the same size as the radio.
got it in the wood working vice and bent it over using a hammer.
finished it off in the other vice.
trimmed it down a bit.
bent it almost to shape.
it fitted in place nicely, so i cleaned it all up with a flapwheel in the grinder.
drilled a hole for where the interior light mounts.
drilled 2 more for where the rear view mirror mounts.
test fitted it.
marked and drilled some holes in the sides to bolt the radio through.
used one of the bolt holes as an earth point.
radio fitted.
not sure what to do about the microphone and cable.
need to cut a top for the centre console/arm rest. then get it upholstered with a thick piece of foam and black vinyl.
then need to wire up the electric fan and fuel heater, both to carling switches. also need to sort the transfer stick out.
cut a piece of ply for the other side.
marked out for the speaker.
jig-sawed it out, screwed the speaker in place, and then re-fitted the piece of ply in place.
fitted the grill.
and other side.
next i turned my attention to the centre console.
i used a plank of timber, to see if the top of the drawer system is a comfortable height, which it is.
Roger commented the other day, about the fact the spare wheel and high lift jack could be very dangerous not strapped down, in the event of a roll over.
this got me thinking.
the high lift doesnt get used very often, normally just for changing wheels when i get punctures. so ive decided to keep it behind the front seats.
its easily accessible by sliding and tilting one of the seats forward.
so i decided to build the centre console with this in mind.
cut first piece of ply, and then spent a while scribing it to the shape of the floor.
stood in position.
it will finish flush with the ply on top of the drawer system.
used the first piece as a template for the other piece.
all cut and ready to be assembled.
in position.
needed to route the speaker cables so they wouldnt get damaged, especially by the high lift jack.
drilled a hole in the centre, pulled the cables through, and then tied them in a not, to prevent them from pulling back through the hole and sagging down.
added some brackets to fix the console in place.
the bottom is screwed in place each side, via a bracket that was already fitted that even had holes in the right place.
routed the cables through the console.
attached a small piece to the top. this is what the lift up arm rest will mount to via a piece of piano hinge.
managed to fit some of my maps in the front area.
and a few other bits and pieces in the other area.
mounted the burner on the front.
routed all the cables through, and connected the speakers up to the head unit.
removed the interior light.
and after removing a few other bits and pieces from around the roof i was able to pull the head lining down a bit so i could see the roof.
i wasnt impressed to find that the roof is single skin above the windscreen with no other brace pieces going across, to which to mount my cb radio to.
undeterred i started routing the cables anyway.
gently pealed back the material that covers the A pillar to the side of the windscreen. this was glued in place all the way down the edge.
its also held in place with a few of these spring clips.
managed to route an aerial cable and power cable all the way up the pillar, across the roof and down through a hole next to the interior light. this hole had a plastic bung in it which when removed gives access to one of the bolts that hold the sunroof in place.
managed to pull the material taught and stick it all back in place.
so................i had to come up with a way of attaching the cb radio. after a few minutes looking at the roof, i decided that the only threaded holes already there which i could make use of, were the 2 that the rear view mirror attaches to, and one that the interior light/sunroof control attaches to.
but it would need an unusual shaped bracket for it to work.
found a sheet of stainless steel in the shed. 2mm thick, looks like an old table top.
cut a piece off, and then found some blocks of wood the same size as the radio.
got it in the wood working vice and bent it over using a hammer.
finished it off in the other vice.
trimmed it down a bit.
bent it almost to shape.
it fitted in place nicely, so i cleaned it all up with a flapwheel in the grinder.
drilled a hole for where the interior light mounts.
drilled 2 more for where the rear view mirror mounts.
test fitted it.
marked and drilled some holes in the sides to bolt the radio through.
used one of the bolt holes as an earth point.
radio fitted.
not sure what to do about the microphone and cable.
need to cut a top for the centre console/arm rest. then get it upholstered with a thick piece of foam and black vinyl.
then need to wire up the electric fan and fuel heater, both to carling switches. also need to sort the transfer stick out.
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1,106
You could cut a piece out of the ply floor to access the rear washer bottle. The problem with the water supply to the jet is probably a kinked hose where it goes from body shell to back door. A better design would have been to mount the bottle in the back door.
For the mic, I suggest a small magnet glued to the mic body and then just push it against the radio frame. If you want to use the s/steel frame for this you will need to add a piece of ferrous metal to it as s/s is not magnetic enough to hold the mic.
Roger
For the mic, I suggest a small magnet glued to the mic body and then just push it against the radio frame. If you want to use the s/steel frame for this you will need to add a piece of ferrous metal to it as s/s is not magnetic enough to hold the mic.
Roger
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
thanks Roger, i like the magnet idea.
got a little bit more done on sunday.
stuck some foam onto the piece of ply that will form the arm rest on top of the centre console.
covering it with black vinyl.
spent a few hours tonight wiring up the cb radio, and 2 carling switches which will control the electric fan and the fuel heater.
this wiring diagram proved invaluable.
spaghetti.
light up with side lights and headlights.
cb working.
couldnt find any stickers for glow plugs or fuel heater.
found a fuel sticker and a aux heater sticker.
cut the 2 in half and put the 2 bits together to read fuel heater.
got a little bit more done on sunday.
stuck some foam onto the piece of ply that will form the arm rest on top of the centre console.
covering it with black vinyl.
spent a few hours tonight wiring up the cb radio, and 2 carling switches which will control the electric fan and the fuel heater.
this wiring diagram proved invaluable.
spaghetti.
light up with side lights and headlights.
cb working.
couldnt find any stickers for glow plugs or fuel heater.
found a fuel sticker and a aux heater sticker.
cut the 2 in half and put the 2 bits together to read fuel heater.
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1,106
If you haven't already done so, I recommend the use of a standing wave ratio meter (SWR) to check out your aerial. If the reading is to high, you can blow the transmitter side of the CB radio.
Roger
Roger
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thanks Roger, i will borrow my mates SWR meter.
picked up another relay and some fuse holders.
wired up my electric fan and fuel heater. mounted the relays to the inner wing.
my mate came around and brought his new ebay bargain temp gauge/controller.
very impressed with it, especially for the price. it looks like im going to be able to mount it where the rear difflock switch is on diff lock equipped 70's.
should fit there perfectly, after a little bit of trimming.
just found them even cheaper. now less than £10 delivered, so ive ordered one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Digital-L ... 5304wt_932
needed to remove the transfer stick and bend it so that it doesnt fowl the back of the transmission tunnel when selecting low range.
used a scaffold tube for more leverage.
re-fitted it, checked its all ok, and refitted the gaiters and surround.
truck is all ready now for this weekends laning trip to the Peak district.
hoping to get the X-ENG calliper fitted and hopefully working properly next, and also build the new steering guard.
picked up another relay and some fuse holders.
wired up my electric fan and fuel heater. mounted the relays to the inner wing.
my mate came around and brought his new ebay bargain temp gauge/controller.
very impressed with it, especially for the price. it looks like im going to be able to mount it where the rear difflock switch is on diff lock equipped 70's.
should fit there perfectly, after a little bit of trimming.
just found them even cheaper. now less than £10 delivered, so ive ordered one!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Digital-L ... 5304wt_932
needed to remove the transfer stick and bend it so that it doesnt fowl the back of the transmission tunnel when selecting low range.
used a scaffold tube for more leverage.
re-fitted it, checked its all ok, and refitted the gaiters and surround.
truck is all ready now for this weekends laning trip to the Peak district.
hoping to get the X-ENG calliper fitted and hopefully working properly next, and also build the new steering guard.
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1,106
Ben
You have a lot of open electrical connections in the engine bay. Water, in globule or vapour form will penetrate and start corroding the brass connections inside each connection. This is more apparent in Winter, especially in salt covered roads.
I suggest you open each joint, dip the connections in petroleum jelly (vaseline) and re-connect. Application of heat from a hair dryer will help the jelly to penetrate right through.
Roger
You have a lot of open electrical connections in the engine bay. Water, in globule or vapour form will penetrate and start corroding the brass connections inside each connection. This is more apparent in Winter, especially in salt covered roads.
I suggest you open each joint, dip the connections in petroleum jelly (vaseline) and re-connect. Application of heat from a hair dryer will help the jelly to penetrate right through.
Roger
