LJ70 Build Thread!

[sae70]

Will your Plasma cutter not cut 8mm Ben

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

A plasma cutter should cut 8mm quite easily. It won't leave a perfectly neat edge but you can clean it up after cutting.

 

[Ben]

quite a productive day really!

finally sent off my references from previous and current employer, all of my city & guild certificates, and my passport to my visa agent. they will get all these copied and then authenticated by a solicitor, and then send them off to the OZ government.
then they will invite me to sit a practical carpentry test and reading, writing, and speaking english exams.
so im one step closer to having my visa to permanently emigrate, and then i can go and seek my fortune in a far away land!

anyway back to my 70..................................................

so i took on board what you guys all said about the 3mm plate being far too thin...............

so i got a piece of 6mm from work.

drew around the 3mm one.

cut as much of it out as i could with the angle grinder.

i could have used the plasma cutter at work. its a beast of a machine and will cut 25mm thick plate! its was the most powerful plasma cutter available when my boss bought it a few months ago. but im not a huge fan if im honest. yes i find it magical the way it cuts so effortlessly through thick steel like its butter, but its not very neat.

and any way i had a better idea.............................

cut a few slits with the grinder, still using an inox thin slitting disc.

then simply gripped each piece with the pliers and pulled the bits off.

at this point i removed the alloy turbo pipe from the engine, so that i could compare my flange to the one on the turbo pipe, and also mark the mounting holes.

i then used a flap wheel disc in the grinder and cleaned up all the edges of the flange, and got it identical to the flange on the turbo pipe.

next i centre punched where all the holes needed to be.

and drilled them out with a 4mm drill bit.

next i put a 16mm hole saw in the drill.

it took no more than 10 mins to drill all the holes, plenty of cutting fluid to keep the cutter cool, and it went straight through. i drilled all the holes from one side and the drill speed wasnt too slow.

making sure the holes lined up.

test fitted it on the engine.

i then spent 10min sat on my bull bar looking at the flange mounted on the engine trying to work out how best to do the pipe. i couldnt do it how landcruiser power has done his, as my fuel filter is in the way, but after a bit of thought i had a plan.

so i marked the pipe.

used the 9" grinder for this as i wanted the cut as flat as possible, again using an inox disc.

to my amazement the angle was spot on!

i cut some more off as id purposely left it long the first time so i could check the angle.

and then cut a little bit more off, and changed the angle slightly.

marked the position of where i wanted the pipe on the flange on the engine, and then unbolted the flange and brought it in.

selected a suitable hole saw, and marked the centre of it in the 2 positions i wanted to drill.

centre punched and pilot drilled.

1 hole done.

second hole done. again these took no longer than 5mins per hole! the secret is plenty of cutting fluid. ive used this method for putting 30mm holes in 20mm thick RSJ's and it works well.

i then used an angle grinder to nip out the bit between the holes, before cleaning up with a big half round file.

positioned the pipe in place and tack welded it with my arc welder.

absolutely perfect!

i then bolted it on to make sure im happy with it, which i am. took loads of pics as its not very clear of the angle and clearances etc.

going to take it to work tomorrow and fully weld it with the MIG.

Roger i bought this this morning.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300628502714? ... _946wt_754

 

[Beau]

Very nice work, That engine is the 1kzt right with the mechanical pump, as the throttle cable looks as if it goes towards the fuel pump and not the intake manifold bit.... so does anything control the amount of air that goes into the engine.... On my manifold, when I took it off there is a butterfly valve which is controlled with the throttle cable.

 

[Ben]

thanks Beau. yes its a 1KZT with manual pump, but im sorry i dont know the answer to your question.

im sure Roger will know though.

 

[Andrew Prince]

Wow, Ben - that's a job well done

 

[Beau]

thanks Beau. yes its a 1KZT with manual pump, but im sorry i dont know the answer to your question.

im sure Roger will know though.

Thought so, If your not worried about fuel economy and would like a few more horses, I would tweak that pump. I had a friend who has a 4runner and we tweaked his pump for the perfect fuelling (basically as soon as you see a touch of black smoke your there) and it went like a rocket. A lot faster than my colorado with the 1kzte electronic pump. This is because on the electronic one you can only tweak the pump so much as the ecu does the rest where as the mechanical pump is well mechanical

 

[Ben]

thanks Andrew.

thanks Beau. yes its a 1KZT with manual pump, but im sorry i dont know the answer to your question.

im sure Roger will know though.

Thought so, If your not worried about fuel economy and would like a few more horses, I would tweak that pump. I had a friend who has a 4runner and we tweaked his pump for the perfect fuelling (basically as soon as you see a touch of black smoke your there) and it went like a rocket. A lot faster than my colorado with the 1kzte electronic pump. This is because on the electronic one you can only tweak the pump so much as the ecu does the rest where as the mechanical pump is well mechanical

once the intercooler is connected id like to tweak the pump.

how do i do it?

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The "Torx" socket/bit have basically superseded the older style hex bit for small bolts due to the higher torque loadings that can be achieved. They are now used on wood screws and IMHO, are far superior to "pozi" or "philips".

Engine control on the 1-KZT engine is purely via the injector pump. The air intake is not "throttled" as are petrol engines of old. With the advent of computer control, the latest petrol and diesel engines use "drive by wire" control to the ECU, which is taking info from the engine such as revs, residual oxygen content in the exhaust, air pressure and possibly humidity and load.

The 1-KZTE engine was at an in-between stage in development and was not as sophisticated as later systems. It was designed to reduce emissions and fuel consumption and stop the judder when you switch the engine off.

Roger

 

[Beau]

thanks Andrew.

thanks Beau. yes its a 1KZT with manual pump, but im sorry i dont know the answer to your question.

im sure Roger will know though.

Thought so, If your not worried about fuel economy and would like a few more horses, I would tweak that pump. I had a friend who has a 4runner and we tweaked his pump for the perfect fuelling (basically as soon as you see a touch of black smoke your there) and it went like a rocket. A lot faster than my colorado with the 1kzte electronic pump. This is because on the electronic one you can only tweak the pump so much as the ecu does the rest where as the mechanical pump is well mechanical

once the intercooler is connected id like to tweak the pump.

how do i do it?

Yeh, it works well if you have a intercooler and a good exhasut. You can see good gains.

As you see from this image bellow, the bit that is circled is called a spill control valve. At the top of it there is a cap which you take off, and underneath this is a small locking nut you need to loosen, then you need to turn the actual smaller nut (you can use a anything to turn it) which you turn CLOCKWISE to put more fuel into the engine. Then in neutral, accelerate to about 4000 rpm and see if there is any black smoke when lifting off, if not turn more until you see black smoke. Also if you do this too much it may stick at 4000 rpm for a second before dropping, but is simple to adjust back. I did mine with the engine running. It is ok to have a bit of black smoke as when revving in neutral you will not use up as much fuel as when driving so hopefully most of it will get burnt.

 

[wobbly]

I've always wondered how it was done

It gets mentioned a lot, but never seen a simple description.

Cheers

Pete

 

[Ben]

once the intercooler is connected id like to tweak the pump.

how do i do it?

Yeh, it works well if you have a intercooler and a good exhasut. You can see good gains.

As you see from this image bellow, the bit that is circled is called a spill control valve. At the top of it there is a cap which you take off, and underneath this is a small locking nut you need to loosen, then you need to turn the actual smaller nut (you can use a anything to turn it) which you turn CLOCKWISE to put more fuel into the engine. Then in neutral, accelerate to about 4000 rpm and see if there is any black smoke when lifting off, if not turn more until you see black smoke. Also if you do this too much it may stick at 4000 rpm for a second before dropping, but is simple to adjust back. I did mine with the engine running. It is ok to have a bit of black smoke as when revving in neutral you will not use up as much fuel as when driving so hopefully most of it will get burnt.

perfect, thanks Beau.

i think thats going to be a job for saturday morning.

i will have to time the 0-60mph before and after.

 

[Ben]

i MIG'd the manifold up after work.

then brought it home and gave it a quick smooth over with a flap wheel disc and then cleaned it all and got all the swarf out of the tube, and then gave it a good coat of galv spray.

made sure inside got a good coat too.

so the manifold is finished now. need to get the other steering bar sleeved next, and the electric fan mounted and a thermo switch fitted.

 

[Keith Shuttleworth]

Wow Ben, you have been busy, some nice work ya done mate, wore me out just reading it.

 

[Ben]

Wow Ben, you have been busy, some nice work ya done mate, wore me out just reading it.

thanks mate.

still loads to do but shes getting there slowly.

 

[Ben]

got a bit more done today, but not as much as id have liked. its been really cold and i was struggling for enthusiasm a bit.

so................................took the alloy turbo pipe off.

and bolted on my new manifold.

took a 90 degree bend.

and fitted it on the drivers side, facing forwards towards the intercooler.

added some more bits of pipe, and that was that side plumbed in.

the other side took a while longer as it was a bit fiddly, and some of the pipes id got must have been ever so slightly smaller internally than the the manifold and intercooler and the majority of the other bits of pipe. ended up having to soak them in boiling water before i could stretch them over some of the fittings.

fitted the new cut off switch for the winch. drilled a couple of holes in the grill, so that once cable tied the switch cant slide along the grill and earth out on the intercooler again!

really wanted to up the fueling, but after looking at my fuel pump for half an hour and comparing it to the pic Beau posted, i couldnt work out what i was meant to adjust.

to me it looks like a different pump to the one Beau posted.

here's mine:-

decided to fit the electric fan, so i cable tied it in place so i could measure up for the metal brackets.

got the steel out, had a measure up, and then decided that i couldnt be bothered, so decided to leave that job till another day.

decided to replace the banana shaped steering bar with my new heavy duty version.

compared to the 2 bent ones.

fitted.

decided to measure up for my guard. so i cut a piece of ply to act as a template.

decided it was too big, the angle was wrong and it was too close to the steering bar.

so i cut 30mm off.

ive taken some measurements and measure the angle i need the steel bent at. going to hopefully see my local metal fabricator over the next week or 2 and get the guard bent up. going to use 6mm i think.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Ben.

The angle between the ball joint pin and the opening to the ball joint body should be 90 deg.

Roger

 

[Crushers]

suggestion:
think of backing up in the mud and skag when designing the front skid plate.
picture a blade scooping up the mud as you are trying to back out of a hole...
just thinking out loud.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The bash plate position is nearly right. I suggest the mounting point should be 50 mm further forward as this will reduce the angle that the plate presents to any obstruction, whilst at the same time allowing sufficient space for the steering bar to operate normally. Moving it this way will also allow easier fabrication and positioning of suitable rear mounting struts. 6 mm plate is fine and to reduce weight you could cut suitable slots from top to bottom.

Roger

 

[Ben]

thanks Roger/Wayne.

regarding the ball joint, i think it was just twisted slightly in the pic, ive just checked it and both ball joints are facing the exact same way on the bar.

the front guard. the trouble ive got is if i move it further forward it will be difficult/impossible to get to the bolts that hold the 2 front recovery points in place, and i think i would end up loosing those front recovery points, which i dont want to happen.

just about to try and dig out the pics i took of your guard Roger so i can remind myself how you have done yours.