Don't like the adverts? Click here to remove them
LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
- Start date
Paddler Ed
Well-Known Member
Rack looks really good Ben; 11kg is a good weight.... I'm sure my old rack for my Volvo with the uprights weighed more than that and it was a factory rack... Mind you, I did the like the Volvo as it had a 100kg roof load (aka as 3 canoes....)
Don't like the adverts? Click here to remove them
Nice work Ben!
Always seems a shame to me that you don't use a plumbers spring to stop the tube deforming on the bends.
Oh, and a PS, what do you plan to do with the props? Will you have to extend them to match the new axle location?
Maybe all the pipe welding practice at college will come in handy to insert 50mm of prop tube.
Always seems a shame to me that you don't use a plumbers spring to stop the tube deforming on the bends.
Oh, and a PS, what do you plan to do with the props? Will you have to extend them to match the new axle location?
Maybe all the pipe welding practice at college will come in handy to insert 50mm of prop tube.
Last edited:
tonytoyota
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2010
- Messages
- 1,799
- Country Flag
Hi Ben top job on LJ looking good
Keep it up . tonytoyota.
Keep it up . tonytoyota.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
Thanks guys.
Its rubber strip and just pushes on. Its quite a tight fit but I will put a bead of silicon on the inside of it when I fit the rubbers after its been powdercoated.
I'm happy to post you some or bring some over with me in July.
Yeah good idea only thing is I'm not sure I would be able to get it back out when bending tube in big pieces like on the roof rack.
The props are telescopic so at the moment its just extended out, but I will have to check how much of the splines are still engaged and it might need a prop spacer yes.
Its rubber strip and just pushes on. Its quite a tight fit but I will put a bead of silicon on the inside of it when I fit the rubbers after its been powdercoated.
I'm happy to post you some or bring some over with me in July.
Nice work Ben!
Always seems a shame to me that you don't use a plumbers spring to stop the tube deforming on the bends.
Oh, and a PS, what do you plan to do with the props? Will you have to extend them to match the new axle location?
Maybe all the pipe welding practice at college will come in handy to insert 50mm of prop tube.
Yeah good idea only thing is I'm not sure I would be able to get it back out when bending tube in big pieces like on the roof rack.
The props are telescopic so at the moment its just extended out, but I will have to check how much of the splines are still engaged and it might need a prop spacer yes.
warrenpfo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2010
- Messages
- 2,895
Thanks guys.
Its rubber strip and just pushes on. Its quite a tight fit but I will put a bead of silicon on the inside of it when I fit the rubbers after its been powdercoated.
I'm happy to post you some or bring some over with me in July.
Thanks Ben but as my three legs are in effect one as they all share a common rail along the gutter I would need about 4m of it so will see what I can source here or just use some good old tyre inner tube.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
Despite not leaving the night club till 7.30am and then only getting a couple of hours sleep I couldnt justify not doing any work on LJ today. 
Cant really get any descent shots of the roof rack with LJ in the garage but I tried.
I refitted the bull bar so that I could check for tyre clearance.
I tried jacking it up but I couldnt really get it high enough, really I need to use the forklift at work to properly flex it up.
I fitted a 37.
Looked OK.
Nice approach angle.
Also now lots of clearance against the bulk head, the 37"s used to rub here slightly before but wont now.
I wanted to design the panhard rod relocation bracket next.
So out with the cardboard and masking tape.
And this is what I came up with.
I will get a longer bolt to go through the original mount with a crush tube, then through the panhard rod and new bracket.
I did some work on the grill next.
Masking tape over the washer jet holes.
Mixed some fibreglass filler.
And filled the holes.
I re-fitted the rear bar.
And wheel carrier.
Some clearer pics of how I tried mounting the latch.
Arches next!
I tried cleaning the resin off with a wire brush in the grinder.
Worked ok but was quite slow.
I'm tempted just to get them shot blasted.
I decided to keep the arch the same shape as Toyota intended, so I marked a line to cut to all the way round.
The point of no return!
I measured how much drum I wanted inside and outside the arch and marked the drum ready for cutting.
Started drilling and bolting through the inner arch.
My plan is to bolt the strips of drum in place and then take it to work and weld the outer panel to the drum. Then I can finish the filling and seam sealing and then get the re-spray done.
Theres a club trip that I want to go on at the start of July so I need to get LJ drivable by then!
Fabrication wise I need to make front and rear panhard rod relocation brackets and make the boxes to space the trailing arms 50mm further back.
Then I also need to make new shock mounts front and rear and 3 link the rear end.
I'm going to remove the OME 80 series front springs that are currently fitted on the rear and get some standard height ones as its given it too much lift I'm also going to try and fit the same to the front.
Then I'm going to try and fit 80 series shocks all round.
Cant really get any descent shots of the roof rack with LJ in the garage but I tried.
I refitted the bull bar so that I could check for tyre clearance.
I tried jacking it up but I couldnt really get it high enough, really I need to use the forklift at work to properly flex it up.
I fitted a 37.
Looked OK.
Nice approach angle.
Also now lots of clearance against the bulk head, the 37"s used to rub here slightly before but wont now.
I wanted to design the panhard rod relocation bracket next.
So out with the cardboard and masking tape.
And this is what I came up with.
I will get a longer bolt to go through the original mount with a crush tube, then through the panhard rod and new bracket.
I did some work on the grill next.
Masking tape over the washer jet holes.
Mixed some fibreglass filler.
And filled the holes.
I re-fitted the rear bar.
And wheel carrier.
Some clearer pics of how I tried mounting the latch.
Arches next!
I tried cleaning the resin off with a wire brush in the grinder.
Worked ok but was quite slow.
I'm tempted just to get them shot blasted.
I decided to keep the arch the same shape as Toyota intended, so I marked a line to cut to all the way round.
The point of no return!
I measured how much drum I wanted inside and outside the arch and marked the drum ready for cutting.
Started drilling and bolting through the inner arch.
My plan is to bolt the strips of drum in place and then take it to work and weld the outer panel to the drum. Then I can finish the filling and seam sealing and then get the re-spray done.
Theres a club trip that I want to go on at the start of July so I need to get LJ drivable by then!
Fabrication wise I need to make front and rear panhard rod relocation brackets and make the boxes to space the trailing arms 50mm further back.
Then I also need to make new shock mounts front and rear and 3 link the rear end.
I'm going to remove the OME 80 series front springs that are currently fitted on the rear and get some standard height ones as its given it too much lift I'm also going to try and fit the same to the front.
Then I'm going to try and fit 80 series shocks all round.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
No worries.
When I used them for bending long pieces of copper tube I'd just tie a tow rope (bit of string) to the end.
Good idea.
Paddler Ed
Well-Known Member
Looks really good Ben!
Is it worth finding a prop shaft place that could make up a custom drive shaft for you?
I really like the flares; they work so nearly as a solution.
Is it worth finding a prop shaft place that could make up a custom drive shaft for you?
I really like the flares; they work so nearly as a solution.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
Thanks Ed.
I will probably just buy 1 or 2 of these:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ALUMINIU...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ddaf8815
I will probably just buy 1 or 2 of these:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ALUMINIU...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ddaf8815
Hi Ben
First off, been reading your thread for a while now and have to say we'll done! I'm so amazed with the amount of work you get done on Lj. And to a high standard. I discovered your thread when I was searching body lifts on lj/kzj landcruisers. I noticed you have have a few issues with your body lift, here in nz we make our blocks out of 60mm round nylon rod, and never have any issues. Just a something to think about if you change yours again. Also something iv found with bending tube is the thin wall tube will kink like it is even with a quality bramley bender but anything over 3mm wall thickness won' t kink.
Anyway keep up your good work and motivational pics
Cheers
Ben.
First off, been reading your thread for a while now and have to say we'll done! I'm so amazed with the amount of work you get done on Lj. And to a high standard. I discovered your thread when I was searching body lifts on lj/kzj landcruisers. I noticed you have have a few issues with your body lift, here in nz we make our blocks out of 60mm round nylon rod, and never have any issues. Just a something to think about if you change yours again. Also something iv found with bending tube is the thin wall tube will kink like it is even with a quality bramley bender but anything over 3mm wall thickness won' t kink.
Anyway keep up your good work and motivational pics
Cheers
Ben.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
Thanks Ben.
Thats interesting about the bodylift spacers you use over there in NZ.
Yeah I thought it might be because its such thin tube, but I wanted to keep the weight down to hopefully keep LJ the right way up in future.
I'm really pushing to get LJ finished this year and ideally before my Simpson Desert trip in September. I probably wont have a garage next year + I want to get on heaps more 4wd trips.
This week I need to order some new bushes for the radius arms to replace my castor correction ones and get them fitted.
Make the front panhard rod relocation bracket.
Source my new bottom rad hose.
Pick up some standard height 80 series front springs and a load of shock absorbers so I can start experimenting with the suspension.
Then this weekend I want to get all the oil drum arches cut and bolted in ready for next Thursday night when I'm hoping to take LJ to work and weld the drums and the roof rack.
Thats interesting about the bodylift spacers you use over there in NZ.
Yeah I thought it might be because its such thin tube, but I wanted to keep the weight down to hopefully keep LJ the right way up in future.
I'm really pushing to get LJ finished this year and ideally before my Simpson Desert trip in September. I probably wont have a garage next year + I want to get on heaps more 4wd trips.
This week I need to order some new bushes for the radius arms to replace my castor correction ones and get them fitted.
Make the front panhard rod relocation bracket.
Source my new bottom rad hose.
Pick up some standard height 80 series front springs and a load of shock absorbers so I can start experimenting with the suspension.
Then this weekend I want to get all the oil drum arches cut and bolted in ready for next Thursday night when I'm hoping to take LJ to work and weld the drums and the roof rack.
