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Not Starting and strange behaviour 1FZ-FE

Rocklord42

New Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
24
Country Flag
ireland
Hi,
Just got around to taking the tarp off the cruiser for some TLC in the lockdown. 2001 105 with 1FZ-FE 4.5 with EFI.
She was last started over Christmas, put the batteries back in, she fires and tries but then fails. She only fires on the first turn of the key. Key needs to go all the way to off and back and then she fires and fails. If you try to turn over the starter again she sounds fuel starved. She keeps sounding like she might just start but doesn't. I started with the fuel system cause she clearly has spark. No problem on either fuel pump, lots of pressure out of the filter. Checked the fuel pulse on the rail and she's pulsing. Checked the vacuum and return lines and everything seems fine. No reason to question injectors, they can't all fail at once (?). She's building a bit of vacuum in the tank so I'll check the charcoal tomorrow, but there isn't really enough vacuum to empty the rail so I'm doing it just to cross it off the list.
I have no reason to question compression cause she fires.
I have checked as many of the cable connectors as I can, they all look perfectly clean and again, she fires.
I pulled the fuses and relay for the EFI, perfect. Checked all the fuses.
I'm suspicious of the fact that she only fires after the first turn to ignition. What is tripping fuel/efi that is getting reset when you turn off ? So I'm thinking one of the sensors might have failed. Maybe cam position sensor ? Does anybody know what signal should be at that sensor or if I have a way of ruling it out as a problem ?
I had the batteries out of her for the past few months.
I will run diagnostics when I can find my connector or have the time to count flashes but has anybody got any bright ideas in the meantime ?
Ta,

Rock
 
Hi,
Just got around to taking the tarp off the cruiser for some TLC in the lockdown. 2001 105 with 1FZ-FE 4.5 with EFI.
She was last started over Christmas, put the batteries back in, she fires and tries but then fails. She only fires on the first turn of the key. Key needs to go all the way to off and back and then she fires and fails. If you try to turn over the starter again she sounds fuel starved. She keeps sounding like she might just start but doesn't. I started with the fuel system cause she clearly has spark. No problem on either fuel pump, lots of pressure out of the filter. Checked the fuel pulse on the rail and she's pulsing. Checked the vacuum and return lines and everything seems fine. No reason to question injectors, they can't all fail at once (?). She's building a bit of vacuum in the tank so I'll check the charcoal tomorrow, but there isn't really enough vacuum to empty the rail so I'm doing it just to cross it off the list.
I have no reason to question compression cause she fires.
I have checked as many of the cable connectors as I can, they all look perfectly clean and again, she fires.
I pulled the fuses and relay for the EFI, perfect. Checked all the fuses.
I'm suspicious of the fact that she only fires after the first turn to ignition. What is tripping fuel/efi that is getting reset when you turn off ? So I'm thinking one of the sensors might have failed. Maybe cam position sensor ? Does anybody know what signal should be at that sensor or if I have a way of ruling it out as a problem ?
I had the batteries out of her for the past few months.
I will run diagnostics when I can find my connector or have the time to count flashes but has anybody got any bright ideas in the meantime ?
Ta,

Rock

Hi Rock,

Immobiliser/alarm, lost communication with each other, i,e chip in the key and chip in the column, would be worth a try.

Also, check the battery in you key fob, have you check you owners hand book with regard to immobliser?

Top Tip, if your gona leave your car standing for a while, don't remove the car battries, use an Optimiser of some sort and leave the battries connected to the car.

Hope this helps.
 
Hi Rock,

Immobiliser/alarm, lost communication with each other, i,e chip in the key and chip in the column, would be worth a try.

Also, check the battery in you key fob, have you check you owners hand book with regard to immobliser?

Top Tip, if your gona leave your car standing for a while, don't remove the car battries, use an Optimiser of some sort and leave the battries connected to the car.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, just remembering I changed batteries in both key fobs and never set them back up.
I thought that I remember reading somewhere that if the immobiliser is activated then the check engine light doesn't come on at ignition, anybody know ?
I know I fucked up on the batteries, actually got a trickle charger for this exact purpose but it was cold and wet and.............

Ta, Rock
 
Update
Didn't have much more than 10 minutes to have a look today but there's definitely something up with the ECU/Immobiliser interface, I tried to program the two key fobs with fresh batteries and it wouldn't do it. Tried all three black keys and one grey key I have as I didn't know which one is the master but ignored the lot of them. Feel a bit sorry for the lock barrel as every key attempt you have to cycle the on/off 45 times :) So going to try an ECU reset, which I seem to remember meant disconnecting battery and reconnecting with the key at ign. I think the doors had to be closed and window open or something strange like that.....
 
Hi,
Just got around to taking the tarp off the cruiser for some TLC in the lockdown. 2001 105 with 1FZ-FE 4.5 with EFI.
She was last started over Christmas, put the batteries back in, she fires and tries but then fails. She only fires on the first turn of the key. Key needs to go all the way to off and back and then she fires and fails. If you try to turn over the starter again she sounds fuel starved. She keeps sounding like she might just start but doesn't. I started with the fuel system cause she clearly has spark. No problem on either fuel pump, lots of pressure out of the filter. Checked the fuel pulse on the rail and she's pulsing. Checked the vacuum and return lines and everything seems fine. No reason to question injectors, they can't all fail at once (?). She's building a bit of vacuum in the tank so I'll check the charcoal tomorrow, but there isn't really enough vacuum to empty the rail so I'm doing it just to cross it off the list.
I have no reason to question compression cause she fires.
I have checked as many of the cable connectors as I can, they all look perfectly clean and again, she fires.
I pulled the fuses and relay for the EFI, perfect. Checked all the fuses.
I'm suspicious of the fact that she only fires after the first turn to ignition. What is tripping fuel/efi that is getting reset when you turn off ? So I'm thinking one of the sensors might have failed. Maybe cam position sensor ? Does anybody know what signal should be at that sensor or if I have a way of ruling it out as a problem ?
I had the batteries out of her for the past few months.
I will run diagnostics when I can find my connector or have the time to count flashes but has anybody got any bright ideas in the meantime ?
Ta,

Rock
Have a look at these youtub vids.


 
I actually have the original procedure which is turning key from ACC to On 20 times etc..... I will put up the factory manual. Having said that still not working.
 
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Update - Need knowledge........

And there was me thinking that lockdown would give me lots of free time to play.

OK, finally got around to doing what needed to be done. She is throwing a B2799 code, or a 99 code if you're using the paperclip. Immobiliser.
I have three factory master keys and the valet key. None of them working.
Can't program the factory key fobs (they are separate to the keys) using the factory procedure.
I have stripped the dash, have continuity on the transponder coil.
I have checked what I can on the transponder amplifier (it has connections, they're clean)
Questions:
1) Does anybody have a clue on a service procedure for identifying the problem ? I can't find anything in the FSM (RM619E). Some of the later Toyota models have this code check with wonderful test solutions like 'try a known good unit to test'....
2) Techstream only identifies the code as an engine code, there is no module showing for Immobiliser so I don't seem to be able to get in to do anything with keys in techstream. Is the immobiliser module never present on a 1FZ-FE or is it missing cause there's an ECU problem ?
3) It's a pretty expensive realm - coil, amplifier, Immobiliser ECU, ECU - it would be nice to cut the options down but how ?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rock
 
Hi,
Did you get this problem fixed?
I’m having the same issue with my 98 105 series.
I’ve noticed though in the middle of the day when it’s hot the immobiliser light near the clock stops flashing, then it won’t start.
Wants to start but dies straight away and just cranks over.
It’s a bloody weird and frustrating problem.
 
I have a similar issue with my 2000 105. Sometimes it simply wont start. If turn the key straight away, most times it starts. Sometimes it turns itself off after a few seconds running. Sometimes it has a bit of a flutter a few seconds after running. If it starts it runs well. It does backfire through inlet sometimes when trying to start but not so much when on petrol. I can smell fuel when it does not start.
Its Petrol/gas. I've isolated the gas (turned cylinders off) because I thought it might be dual fueling but no difference. Fuel economy is shocking but I believe thats nothing out of the ordinary.
Making some enquiries, I checked the air temperature sensor located in the airbox - its looks to be fine & there is no repeatable problem whether starting or running when connected or disconnected. I've changed the airbox thinking it might not be sealing properly and there is no differential pressure from outside to inside. This which seemed to do the job initially but I have noticed if I turn the key on and wait a generous amount of time, it wont start (most of the time anyhow). I think it might be flooding so next step is looking at the fuel system. Apparently there is a pressure regulator valve somewhere on the return line? I have considered the possibility of bad fuel as the issue started occurring soon after I purchased from an independent servo but I would think unlikely. Its a frustrating problem.
 
Hi Rock,
I'm a new member too. Can't help with your problem, but could you or anyone else tell me how to read fault codes for 105 Petrol please.
Also, where do you buy a connector for the computer diagnosis port ?
Thanks Greg, and good luck.
 
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