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Overheating

I'm glad I bought a 3.0l, it used to be happy at 70 up telegraph but with 33"s on it now it's down to 60.
 
I reckon thats why Carls speed is dropping off, only way to get it back up to speed would be to change the diff ratios, but hardly worth the effort and cost.

Pete
 
well ... i may have an idea. but don't know if it would work or not ...


all will be revealed once i'm sure of one or two things.
 
Just a litle update ....

i've had the 78 serviced now ... and seems to be ok at the moment
the stat has been replaced with the same temp rating as the old one, ....
got lovely hot heat from the heaters which is a good thing ....... temp doesn't climb above halfway up the gauge ..


Pete .... i got 35 mph @3800 rpm going up Haldon hill the other day, ...but i am riding on 33" tyres
 
"temp doesn't climb above halfway up the gauge ."

good to hear. please be aware factory gauges set to not move much at all in the centre range. better to have an independent gauge or modify the factory gauge to read accurately.
 
adrianr said:
"temp doesn't climb above halfway up the gauge ."

goo dot hear. please be aware factory gauges set to not move much at all in the centre range. better to have an independent gauge or modify the factory gauge to read accurately.

Right ... thanks ...
 
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I'm not sure of the exact maths, but I'm sure that increasing the circumference of the tyre has changed the gearing - its almost like having another gear above 4th + o/d, only two options are either increase the revs (not really going to happen on a 2 ton truck with an 80hp engine !!), or change the diff ratios, not worth the cost.

I'll bet even at 38mph you were getting stuck behind hgv's, scary the bit near the top where the lanes start to narrow - going down is just as bad with the adverse camber as you go down towards the bp garage at the chudleigh exit.

Pete
 
actually managed to overtake a fully loaded artic going up ... but that was where there was 3 lanes .... i wouldn't have done it if it was only 2 lanes

I'm picking up an unwanted 90 series for free soon that i'm not sure what to do with yet ....but i want to see if the engine and box will fit in our 78
 
Red Oktober said:
I'm picking up an unwanted 90 series for free soon that i'm not sure what to do with yet ....but i want to see if the engine and box will fit in our 78

Slip Ben a couple of quid, he can do almost anything :D
 
Birder said:
Red Oktober said:
I'm picking up an unwanted 90 series for free soon that i'm not sure what to do with yet ....but i want to see if the engine and box will fit in our 78

Slip Ben a couple of quid, he can do almost anything :D


true :thumbup: .... Ben's work is very very commendable ... :cool: :cool:

i'm thinking of someone a bit closer to home ....
 
Going to cost more to get someone to transplant motors than the truck is worth at a guess
 
Red Oktober said:
Birder said:
[quote="Red Oktober":1dvwjyt7]

I'm picking up an unwanted 90 series for free soon that i'm not sure what to do with yet ....but i want to see if the engine and box will fit in our 78

Slip Ben a couple of quid, he can do almost anything :D


true :thumbup: .... Ben's work is very very commendable ... :cool: :cool:

i'm thinking of someone a bit closer to home ....[/quote:1dvwjyt7]


thanks guys. :thumbup:

im sure the 90 series engine could be transplanted in your truck without too many problems, but...............................its all the electrics i wouldnt fancy having to sort out. :?
 
I would guess at a minimum of 60 hours work to do it right? At 40 quid + an hour and then theres parts.........

Reds is an auto too that's going to complicate things further unless the 90 bell housing or box fits etc etc

Not trying to put a downer on it all but unless your doing it yourself it's going to get costly.

If it was my truck I would have the spanners out and get on, but finding 60 hours around family and work commitments is the difficult bit.

I used to be like Ben when building rally cars, finding 40 hours a week of tinker time was easy!
 
Would it not be easier to get the 90 up and running and sell it, use the money to buy a good long book, which you can read on the way up Halden/Telegraph Hill.....

Looked at engine swaps over the last year, essentially the choice if for a 3.0 non-electronic, or one of the swanky 4.0 petrol jobbies, all else seems beyond economy.

Carl - do you still have the old wheels/tyres - wondered how your truck fared on the same stretch of road with the old spec wheels - if its similar to mine (i'm on 31" which is close to original) then its the tyre size reducing gearing, but if its not similar to mine then it could be something else reducing performance.

Pete
 
hi pete,
like the book idea ... :lol: :lol:

yes i do have the original wheels & tyres they are 265/70/15 ... i will try them on the same stretch of road

Carl
 
I have 1991 Lj78. I bought it with ugly looking air scoops turned around on the bonnet. Have replaced them with just standard vent plates. Given the history of LJ78 overheating, I have driven my LJ78 very hard to experiment with temp. and I can say that if overheating was a problem in the past, then these vents on the bonnet was probably the right answer, over a 30mile distance I could not get the temp gauge over halfway. Will upload photo's hopefully towards the weekend to show vents.

The vents is obviously not a cure if overheating is cause by leaking system, but if there's no leaking of water in a system that circulates well then it help to get "warm" air out of engine bay quicker to speed up airflow through radiator.
 
Just to bring this back up to date ...

we went to Basingstoke last weekend ....and it overheated on the way back (M3 end of the A303) .... anyway ... long story short ...had to get recovered back to basingstoke to be given a courtesy car so we could get home. .. car hire place returned the truck the other day ...


anyway ... had it pressure tested today .... found a leaky radiator ... and a stuffed head gasket :cry: :evil: :cry:
 
In Canada we have had a serious issue with the 2LT / 2LTE over heating issues. Personally i have spent thousands on trying to beat the issue with no positive long term results.
4 core rad
EGR block off plates
new 3L head
fixed fan
removing AC system
2.5" free flowing exhaust
increased boost to 14 psi with no increase in fuel

the head still cracked.
it turns out the over heating issue is in the actual design of the cooling going through the head at the rear. there is a steam pocket that develops and that steam issue causes the head to crack between the valves.

Water Wetter seems to help quite a bit and you might be advised to give it a try.

I stopped selling the 2LTE / 3L equiped vehicles back in 2008 and now the KZ engines are beginning to fail in Canada as well.

best of luck

cheers
Wayne
 
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