Post your 0-60 times here!

[Graham]

I will clock a 0 to 60 some time on Monday.
It's definitely no slug, and feels OK for 2 ton of 120 series D4-d metal.
See what Monday brings,,,

Gra

 

[silvercruiser]

It will be good to see the difference in times Graham.

Should this thread be moved to the lounge as it covers all models?

 

[silvercruiser]

Is it possible to move the thread in the "lounge" section? Might be more suited than the 90's section

Sorry Beau ive just seen this post

 

[clivehorridge]

Oh, please don't ask me to post mine....

 

[Gary820]

I'd best fill the tank first

 

[Beau]

Shayne, the waste gate actuator is rather difficult to see through the engine bay. The top heat shield and side one must come off to gain better access and from there it's once again difficult to get to the two actuator bolts to undo it. This is why I did mine when the engine was out. I've never investigated in the actual unit but if possible it would be great and more professional to remove the spring and replace it with a stiffer one.

Also how much more does the LWB weigh over the SWB?

 

[Shayne]

I can see the actuator just about , will have to remove intercooler , air box pipe and heat shields to get to it i reckon . What i have not been able to find is a clear picture of the actuator on my truck and it seems some 1kz (on different toyotas) have adjustable arms on the actuator which would make upping the boost easy . What concerns me most is taking it all apart only to find no adjusting arm and the spring is held in a sealed unit so i can only get to it with a hacksaw like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvPAUtDKq6Q

 

[silvercruiser]

Shayne, the waste gate actuator is rather difficult to see through the engine bay. The top heat shield and side one must come off to gain better access and from there it's once again difficult to get to the two actuator bolts to undo it. This is why I did mine when the engine was out. I've never investigated in the actual unit but if possible it would be great and more professional to remove the spring and replace it with a stiffer one.

Also how much more does the LWB weigh over the SWB?

acording to parkers the swb is 220kg lighter than the lwb

 

[Beau]

I can see the actuator just about , will have to remove intercooler , air box pipe and heat shields to get to it i reckon . What i have not been able to find is a clear picture of the actuator on my truck and it seems some 1kz (on different toyotas) have adjustable arms on the actuator which would make upping the boost easy . What concerns me most is taking it all apart only to find no adjusting arm and the spring is held in a sealed unit so i can only get to it with a hacksaw like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvPAUtDKq6Q

The actuator part is located on the left on this picture, with the long lever which opens and closes the boost pressure valve. On the top where the hose goes into is what I believe is a sealed unit containing a diaphragm and and spring which operated the lever. I highly doubt it'll be possible to replace the spring but it may be worth looking into it a little more. Where the one bolt is shown is where the washer should be placed, in between the gap stretching the spring slightly as you do so.

 

[Shayne]

Ah i see so you actually moved the bracket 2mm using washers to preload the spring a little . Forgive me for questioning this but does that not just let the turbo cut in earlier rather than upping the boost psi ? . I imagine it would make give a very noticeable difference if you were running a stock exhaust but i think i have achieved the same by adding a 3" exhaust ?
I've read those with an adjustable actuator arm shorten it to increase boost .

 

[TAZANIMAL]

Ok my hj60 may do 60 if you give it a week or two at 600k miles it is not taken over 2500rpm often has never even had the head or sump off i got it in 1989 having serviced it from 1 year old i know it well and still doing over 30mpg
taz "torque of the devil"

 

[TAZANIMAL]

if you want to improve the boost move the boost line from the compressor housing to the inlet manifold it will see the real boost after the intercooler

 

[Shayne]

After a few more hours of reading and watching wastegate vids i reckon the washer behind bracket probably works better than shortening the actuator arm . In very basic terms all we are trying to do is delay the wastegate opening , so to shorten the arm we are just preloading the spring whereas moving the bracket adds preload and reduces how much the wastegate actually opens . 75% open is said to be perfectly safe .

 

[Beau]

After a few more hours of reading and watching wastegate vids i reckon the washer behind bracket probably works better than shortening the actuator arm . In very basic terms all we are trying to do is delay the wastegate opening , so to shorten the arm we are just preloading the spring whereas moving the bracket adds preload and reduces how much the wastegate actually opens . 75% open is said to be perfectly safe .

Spot on Shayne, I used a 2mm washer but I've heard of surf guys going up to 6mm...I think they can get away with it as they have the earlier 1kzt engine with no ECU so there is no fail safe or boost cut off. I think 2mm is a safe option.

 

[glen_ep]

I added some TRD power to mine

Hard to see clearly but I think it's just under 10 seconds with the 33" tyres.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kw-ohe77RcE

 

[Ben]

Great idea!

I must clock mine/make a video.

On a recent 4wd trip we pulled up at a set of traffic lights and I couldn't resist pulling along side Michael in his 80 for a bit of a race.

I thought his 80 with the 4.2 12v engine would thrash me, especially as his has had the fuel pump wound up aswell as the boost, + his aftermarket exhaust and water to air intercooler.

Well I thrashed him all the way up to about 60mph, in every gear I was out pulling him.

Certainly surprised me, with my 200k+ miles 1KZ-T engine pulling 37" tyres!

 

[Beau]

Great idea!

I must clock mine/make a video.

On a recent 4wd trip we pulled up at a set of traffic lights and I couldn't resist pulling along side Michael in his 80 for a bit of a race.

I thought his 80 with the 4.2 12v engine would thrash me, especially as his has had the fuel pump wound up aswell as the boost, + his aftermarket exhaust and water to air intercooler.

Well I thrashed him all the way up to about 60mph, in every gear I was out pulling him.

Certainly surprised me, with my 200k+ miles 1KZ-T engine pulling 37" tyres!

It's the weight of the 80 series that's probably bogged him down. Saying that the 1KZT engine is very torquey and does pull very well indeed. There are some Hiace guys I know getting 200BHP out these things and massive amounts of torque. Looking forward to seeing your video

 

[McLean Racing]

not realy thought about doing a 0-60 test on my LC, but i can do it in 1.5 secs on my main toy lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMVBcUD76sw

 

[Ben]

It's the weight of the 80 series that's probably bogged him down. Saying that the 1KZT engine is very torquey and does pull very well indeed. There are some Hiace guys I know getting 200BHP out these things and massive amounts of torque. Looking forward to seeing your video

200BHP!

I found out yesterday that for $150 (£100) cash theres a place that will put my truck on a dyno and fully tune it. My house mate got his 80 done there and he gained quite a few ponies and his EGT's have dropped a lot when pushing the truck hard.

 

[Beau]

200BHP!

I found out yesterday that for $150 (£100) cash theres a place that will put my truck on a dyno and fully tune it. My house mate got his 80 done there and he gained quite a few ponies and his EGT's have dropped a lot when pushing the truck hard.

From what I've heard the 1KZT mechanical fuel pump, being that it's mechanical is very easy to tune and pump in more fuel. The trouble of course is then cooling the engine down a little more to cope with the higher head temps and EGT's. If I was you I would be looking into putting back on your intercooler if you decide to up the fueling. It's a safety factor with these engines.