Rear main crank shaft seal. Gear box out?

[martin]

Hi guys, after spending all last week drying out the 70 dude to getting stuck in the middle of a river for 20 minets after helping an SJ out of the river. I now need to replace the rear main crank shaft oil seal. Anyone have any tips as to how i should go about doing this? Im guessing its box out rather than engine out? Photos to come.

 

[Ben]

Id have said box out yes.

Might be worth replacing the clutch while your in there?

I wouldnt fit anything other than a genuine Toyota seal.

Every seal ive ever bought from milners has failed prematurely.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Note that the g/box and t/box come off together and the combined weight is 285lbs.

Roger

 

[Ben]

I got my box out easy enough using a trolley jack and ratchet straps.

Theres pics and info in my build thread some where.

 

[martin]

Did some work on it last nite, as its already been said its not light, and looks very big under there. Ratchet straps? Where and how would i use them? Thrugh the gear stick hole? The other thing i was unsure about was, when re fitting it, should i pop the Gbox up 1st then fit the Tbox? Or do them togeather?

 

[Roger Fairclough]

To remove the t/box you would need to dismantle it from the back forwards. You would then need to re-assemble it. This is accepting that it is feasable to do whilst the g/box is still in situ.

Don't even think about it.

Yes it's heavy but more importantly it's not balanced along the north south axis. Because the t/box drives are along the offside edge, you need to clamp the combined unit to a suitable frame before lowering. I used a proper g/box removal mount fitted to a decent sized trolley jack to do this. It is fitted with various adaptable arms to fully secure the load. Prior to removing the box/s, you would be well advised to lift the car at all 4 wheels by at least 200mm. This will give you room to "swing the cat" so to speak.

Roger

 

[martin]

To remove the t/box you would need to dismantle it from the back forwards. You would then need to re-assemble it. This is accepting that it is feasable to do whilst the g/box is still in situ.

Don't even think about it.
so to speak.
Roger

Thanks for the Tip Roger, now the box is out and after what you said i can see why its best to keep Gbox and Tbox together.

It looks like the Clutch plate is not all that old but the Thrust bearing has lost of play in it and is full of rust. So may as well get a clutch kit. The Rear main oil seal has definitely given up as oil is all over the place.
I would post some of the pictures that i have taken but its not letting me until i have posted more than 15 posts. Even tho they do look very Boring photos.


Going to get onto Toyota in the morning, Hope to get it back in for the weekend.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Clutch kits are expensive.

From a Toyota dealer you will need a mortgage (probably).

Do you have a decent auto parts dealer near you (you don't say where you are)?

Roger

 

[martin]

I plan to only buy the Seal from Toyota but as you said i think il buy the kit from a motor factors, the last kit i got from them was about 90 pounds, that said it was on a sport KA so it maybe more money this time.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

I know Milner's do a kit but I have no idea as to it's quality.

Has anyone got any comments on that score?

Roger

 

[martin]

Ordered the clutch and it will be ready to collect tomorrow, but the oil seal is different all together, it could be one of 2 different types. One type takes 2 weeks and is coming from Japan and the other will be hear on Friday. Please to God Fridays parts will be the correct ones. Just goes to show how expensive parts can be if Bourght from Toyota. £75 for the seals, and £80 for a high quality clutch kit.*

 

[Ben]

your paying £75 for 2 oil seals?

 

[martin]

Yeah that's what I thought. Rip off isn't it.*

 

[Ben]

Its worth sending Simon an email next time your after parts. I cant imagine hed have charged you that much.

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/45097-Simon-Holton-Gen-Toyota-Parts

 

[Crushers]

ummm, make sure you grease the seal lip before you install. that dry seal install is the biggest factor in premature ruination of the seals ...

 

[Roger Fairclough]

There are three reasons why a c/shaft seal will leak. Worn out lip on seal, wear on c/shaft beyond a certain limit and pressurisation within the engine forcing the oil out. It's always a good idea to check the breather pipe from the cam cover.

Roger

 

[martin]

*acutely the reason this failed is dude to there being about 20L of a nice mix of used oil and river water being mixed up inside the engine. "long storey involving towing an SJ out of of the middle of a river but getting stuck my self for about 20 minuets" *but as soon as I had flushed out the boors by removing the glow plugs, it ran ok but my mistake. I should of drained out the oil, as as soon it started it fired oil all over the workshop out of the breathers, and now *after countless oil changes it started dripping big time out of the rear main. Last time I help out an SJ.*

 

[martin]

shiney bits get deliverd by Hot deliv

ery Girl

 

[Roger Fairclough]

With that much water in the sump, the crank webs would be immersed. When you started the engine the oil/water mix would rapidly froth up creating a very high pressure wave that can distort the oil seal and either turn the lip inside out or push it out/partly out of it's housing.

Roger

ps What is the make of the clutch unit?

 

[martin]

*Yeah agreed with what your saying there, water is a killer. It's made by Blue print, from what I understand they are not cheep crappy ones, my motor parts place do sell a cheaper one but I'd rather the better ones. I have fitted quite a few and not yet had any issues. Hoping the oil seals will be hear Friday.