Timing Belt Change

[John Packham]

Well, I've searched the forums and come to the conclusion nobody has ever done one of these... or had to ask about it anyway.

At exactly 150,000 km the light came on, answering the question: "Is it a clever bit of calculation by the ECU that decides how worn it might be or is it just the no of km covered?".

I'm going to change the belt and tensioner (and the aux belt) but is there a "technical way of tensioning the timing belt correctly and has anybody got any torque-wrench settings for the tensioner?

 

[TonyP]

There should be a thread on here as I know Crispin changed the timing belt on his old 120.

 

[John Packham]

That's what I thought but the search hasn't shown me it yet.

 

[Crispin]

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/42548-Timing-belt-change?highlight=timing

 

[John Packham]

Thanks Crispin. I'd seen that thread but wanted to check there wasn't a "special tool" needed. It's a pretty simple job - good because I've ordered the bits.

 

[Crispin]

Nope, number 10 spanner and a number 13 IIFRC Was very easy. Only pain was threading the new one over the fan blades as you need long arms.

 

[John Packham]

...threading the new one over the fan blades as you need long arms.

I'm 6'6"

 

[John Packham]

There's also a huge allen bold holding the tensioner wheel assembly on... Also, strangest engine I've seen where the timing belt doesn't run from crank to cam!

 

[Crispin]

I don't recall that. The tensioner was two M8, took whole assembly off, compressed the spring and reversed it all.
Could be my old brain forgetting though...

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

 

[John Packham]

I replaced the idler wheel as well as the belt; that was where the 10mm allen socket was needed. I've taken photos if you think it's worth writing a how-to-do-it.

 

[TonyP]

A how to with pics would be nice, I will need to do mine within a year....

 

[Nuclear Chicken]

Hardly worth pictures and hard to get at for pictures. I wrote a small synopsis too. It's quite simple other than a few grazed knuckles. You'll almost certainly have to remove the tensioner to get it compressed again. I didn't replace the idler as all seemed pretty good. Even the old belt looked fine!

Sent from my Galaxy Note

 

[John Packham]

Yes, a few grazes but that's par for the course. It took me a bit over two hours but a good hour was spent finding the lost washer from behind the idler wheel - I didn't know what sort of piece it might be because I didn't see it fall and then I lost it again putting it all back together. It's really a one hour job and was the easiest cam-belt I've ever changed. I changed the idler because I bought the kit with belt and idler so I wasn't stuck if the old idler was dodgy, which it wasn't.

I'm assuming the aux belts straight-forward because there are no posts about changing it

 

[Nuclear Chicken]

Aux belts ok to do too. Access through the O/S wheel arch and from above. There's a spring loaded tensioner in there too that is released using a standard socket (17 rings a bell) and long bar. A 12 sided socket is best to give as much locating position for the bar. As I recall I did most of it from above but the levering distance for the bar is quite limited hence the comment re the socket. There's a pulley diagram on the front top member but it's as easy to look through the wheel arch and check. I sketched it out as a record. Wheel arch access is really just to locate the belt on the various pulleys and to ensure all is ok. If you can manage a timing belt this will be no problem.


Sent from my Galaxy Note

 

[John Packham]

If you can manage a timing belt this will be no problem.

Sent from my Galaxy Note

I finally got around to doing the aux belt today and loosened the tensioner bolt expecting the belt tension to drop - but it didn't. A quick question therefore is am I on the right bolt? It's the one at the bottom to the left of the fan in the photo (3 or 4 turns loosened) and it corresponds to the diagram under the bonnet. What am I missing?

 

[Nuclear Chicken]

John
It doesn't loosen. You have to keep it pulled to take the load off the spring and with your 3rd hand you swap out the belt. Seriously it's easier than it sounds. Get the new one all in place and just slip it over the tensioner last as you slacken it. If you're sure you have the right replacement just cut the old one off.

Sent from my Galaxy Note

 

[John Packham]

So the diagram shows the "tool" taking the tension off by loading it clockwise?

 

[Nuclear Chicken]

Exactement. It will only move about what's indicated as access is a bit limited. In fact, even using an extension piece can have so much play as to use up all your room. Best using a 750mm bar if you can or longer.

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[John Packham]

I have a very long snap-on breaker bar which I used to undo the centre bolt. It'll do the job. Thanks for the help

 

[John Packham]

Done... I can't believe how easy that was.