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Who is doing what maintenance today?

Swapped my air filter housing / assembly to the OEM cyclonic type that dusty places get = better dust seperation and washable filters :)
 
fitted my winch

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After a trip up to Karls, swapped fuel and oil pressure gauges in dash, replaced blown bulbs while I had dash out. Fitted centre cubby and CB. Next on the list is the annoying brake light coming on under braking.
 
Trev, just sounds like your fluid is low. OK blindingly obvious stuff, but that is the classic symptom.

Eggs, Grandma and all that.

Chris
 
Full fluid service and a timing belt kit - that ends a busy week with my 95, starter on tuesday too, should be good for another 80,000 miles of zero trouble!
 
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Fitted recovery points on the front of my 70, after solving the mystery of the disappearing mounting holes. Previous owner cut the chassis back so I had to drill new holes, thanks Karl for curing my numptiness.

@ Chris, brake fluid at correct level so assuming low rear brake shoes but will investigate after pay and play tomorrow.
 
all diffs and gearbox oil change.

next up rear wheel bearing ( :twisted: :twisted: ), coolant and serpentine belt.
 
Serpentine belt and coolant. Belt is about 5 minutes to change :thumbup:
 
redid some wiring/relays I'd put in a stupid place to make space for moving my aux battery from in the boot to under the bonnet :)
 
Was going to replace front diff oil. So I checked I can open the fill plug, before ending up with an empty transaxle that can't be filled - no problems there.

BUT - can I open the drain plug ?? Not a hope in hell - and the 10mm hex key has rounded the plug hole!! Oops.

So, wise people out there - do I recover this situation? Anyway of getting that plug out, or is it off to Mr T??

I've tightened the fill plug again. Now I'm going to have a braai and a Windhoek and think about it ;-)
 
Gary Stockton said:
So, wise people out there - do I recover this situation? Anyway of getting that plug out, or is it off to Mr T
It comes undone a peice of pizz with a large cold chisel & hammer :thumbup: :)

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Hope you don't find this though
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Ok cheers. I'll need to go get a new one on Monday I guess ...
 
As steven said hammer and chissel.

If you've got a rounded hole from the allen key, then try hammering a slightly oversize torx key in there. Nearly always works.
 
Freeze spray? No good warming it, it's used to being warm.

I would say weld something to it like a nut. But then I can. If you get one Gary, send it to me, I'll weld a nut on for you and post it back - for when you get the old one out that is.

Chris
 
Yep - considering that. FSM says to tighten to 37Nm - this is way more than that!!
 
Fixed my loose rear ARB plate. The threads had stripped in the captive nuts in the chassis rail. So, I super glued a nut to my finger, poked it through the hole in the chassis until I could reach the end of the bolt. Turned the bolt from the outside to engage the thread. The managed to get an angled ratchet spanner on the inside nut until tight. No more rattley rattle. All smooooth and quiet again.

Chris

Oh and replaced a silly old oil seal in the centre diff.
 
sae70 said:
Gary Stockton said:
Hope you don't find this though
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:o That's what the drain plug on my transfer box looked like when Greg was giving my 80 a service before my Croatia trip, a little voice came from under the truck saying Chas, your trucks broke, I had been having trouble getting it into low range (like impossible) but one s/hand box later that he just happened to have lying around and I was one my way to foreign parts. Thanks Greg, it's still working fine. :thumbup:
 

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Spent today getting the old bars off my 70 that I knackered at my local pay and play, can't remove the track rod ends so my mechanic mate is having a go this week for me. Lots of heat needed apparently.

Old and new

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And this is how stupidly easily I managed to knacker them, inexperience is becoming pricey :oops:

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YYY
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