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Who is doing what maintenance today?

I changed mine using the FSM procedure of feeding the return pipe into a container and refilling the reservoir with the engine running. Worked a treat but, ideally, you need a big snug fitting funnel on the reservoir and plenty of fresh fluid because of the fast circulation rate. Takes only around 10 secs or so to flush the system and the fluid is coming back clean.
 
Over the last week I've been fiddling in the 80, a false floor (painted grey to match the carpet) has been bolted to the rear seat mounting holes with a hatch cut out to get at the tank panel. :thumbup:

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The Nat Luna fridge is now in a North South position instead of its previous East West position. I have to move the front seat slightly when I want to open the lid but it's more convenient this way to see inside the fridge.
The inverter has been moved too, before it was flat on the floor now it's up against the rear drawers.

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I've fitted a double USB socket on the dash connected to a permanent live so charging can be done without the key in the ignition. Unfortunately in cutting a hole I buggered up the dash covering. :oops:

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Why have my pictures suddenly started appearing larger?
 
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I've spent the last three days underneath the 2001 '100-Series'.

I had a leaking N/S rear axle oil seal so pulled the half shaft. As I suspected, it was my fault :oops:.

I removed the diff and replaced the back brake dust shields last year. This meant pulling the spacers/ABS rings/wheel bearings off the half shafts in order to replace the shields (which are also the back brake mountings so are heavy-duty).

When putting it all together I didn't get the ABS Ring and spacer (that runs in the oil seal) in quite the right place - it was 4mm out - meaning that the oil seal was on the edge of the spacer and leaked.

A new ABS Ring and Spacer and some more careful measurement has hopefully sorted that little whoopsie.


While it was in the garage and up on stands (while it was hailing outside, this really is the Frozen North) I set about changing the rear ARB Bushes and Drop Links.

Now, for all you guys down South this will be less than an hours work. Unfortunately 14 years of road salt meant that It took me an hour per bolt to remove the old bits.

I had to carefully re-position ABS cables, handbrake cable and so on, wire brush the rust as best I could then use a propane torch CAREFULLY on each bolt.

After 15 mins or so I was able to get some movement on the bolts with a six-point socket on an 18" power bar. It was then a matter of carefully working them back and forth until they were out. The bolts are toast but the threads in the axle & chassis survived so no Helicoiling or Riv-Nutting this time.

The ARB was cleaned back to bare metal and given two coats of Smoothrite before fitting the orange bushes with stainless bolts and lots of anti-sieze paste.

The brackets that the drop links bolt to were also cleaned back to bare steel and painted.

It looks nice, but it will be rusty again within a month I reckon. It should impress the MOT Tester later this month though.

Horse towing on Monday and then I have to tackle the front ARB bushes and links and fit new front AHC suspension struts :shock:.

It never ends.

Bob.
 
Thats a lot of work again Bob. I removed my front ARB on my 80 about 4 years back. Haven't missed it at all.
 
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Finally have a project nearing completion. I have been making adjustments to a CNC mill I have been building.

That's very interesting - what's the basic Mill you started with ??

I just bought a new 'Warco GH Universal'. It has power feed to the quill but so far I have declined to add a DRO or power feed to the horizontal co-ordinates.

I'll be very interested in seeing more pictures and info on your set-up (Boys' Toys and all that :icon-wink:).

Bob.
 
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Hey Bob, it's a Sieg X2 mini mill. I'll do a basic write up
On it soon. Though there is loads of info out the about converting them and other manual mills.

I have a set of DRO's for a manual mill if your interested.


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I have a set of DRO's for a manual mill if your interested.

Thanks Ryan, but I have a steep learning curve to climb before I go getting too ambitious :lol:.

I am doing a lot of reading and have started practicing before I'm let loose on turning rough castings into classic motorcycle parts.

The basic Mill wasn't too expensive (£1,600) but by the time I ordered the 'Accessories' (stand, suds tray, large compound vice, rotary table with dividing Head, set of end mills, set of fly cutters, clamping set, set of R8 collets, set of slot cutters) the total was nearer £2,300.

Just as well that SWMBO doesn't go out to the workshop very often :eusa-whistle:.

Bob.
 
Ya it all adds up very quickly. It's a whole new world of bits I never knew I needed! But it does add a whole new dimension to what you can do in your workshop.


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Thats a lot of work again Bob. I removed my front ARB on my 80 about 4 years back. Haven't missed it at all.

That had crossed my mind but I rather like to keep things standard. Also, I have IFS and I'm not sure how that would react to a lack of ARB. I suspect the 80-Series beam axle is more stable.

It needed doing as it was getting a bit rough down there. It looks much better now :icon-wink:.


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The ARB Bush kit included orange bushes for the Drop Links. However, annoyingly they had plain ends whereas the bushes supplied (and those that came off) have a central spigot to centre the link in the large hole in the bracket. I didn't use the orange ones as the link would be able to move about :(.


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Stainless bolts everywhere :thumbup:.

I'm gradually re-building this truck from the ground up :icon-rolleyes:.

Must do the front ones soon.


Bob.
 
Nice work - i can see what you mean about salt helping the rust along!

Beam axle - i think you are right. No doubt the OME springs and shocks help mine as well.
 
I serviced and revalved my shocks today. They were starting to look a bit crusty so I wire brushed them and gave them a lick of plastidip.

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Got a 20" led light bar the other day to fit on the a-bar got it on the motor then my brother asked for a hand on a sales car,and while helping him managed to chop half way through my index finger cut my nerve and tendin with the angle grinder so now had plastic surgery so got to wait till I can wire it up to see how bright it is,always the same been waiting a month for it to arrive off geek.
 
Ouch ! Get well soon , I bet the shopping list gets a fair bit longer while your sat there waiting to get better with nothing but bored window shopping to feed your as yet mild addiction :violin:
 
Well got a good update today,got new starter motor fitted under AA warranty and they also wired up my led light bar so il try get some pics up tonight.
yeh finger giving abit of throbbing at mo but like Shayne said the window shopping is not good,really wanting to order the new springs and shocks front and back but really can't decide on which ones,the rough trax 2" lift as shouldn't have to change anything or the Devon 4x4 help please as I can order them and get them fitted.
well thanks again all and only 3 week keeping finger straight and hopefully it will move and have feeling again fingers crossed lol.
 
:puke-front:Hmmm, this should come with a warning, especially at tea time
 
I did think of you JR when Sag mentioned his mishap , he wasn't a member when you had your accident I don't think . How are you getting along with things now , better I hope .
 
Well Shayne, they've healed up well but i can't close my hand up, like as making a fist, i can only get about 50% & my index finger is stiff from the first joint, been offered more surgery but when i have been at physio i have met three other people with very similar injuries & they had more surgery & wished they hadn't so I'm going to soldier on, still get the phantom pains from time to time but getting less, the cold makes them hurt like ****
 
YYY
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