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Who is doing what maintenance today?

Replaced rear diff lock actuator, all working now… replaced fuel filter too, replaced HP hose and A/C condenser, cold cruiser again yay. Next is radiator flush, replacing upper and lower hoses plus heater ‘T’s, then on to AHC fluid flush…
 
Got back from a 2 hour run around 2 o'clock, up on the ramps and gave her a quick oil change, hot oil came out like a fire hose, shone the torch up her bum strainer all clear, Smith and Allans finest straight back in.
Meant to change the coolant at the same time, but as Scarlett once said, tomorrow is another day.
 
New radiator fitted.. transfer box front oil seal is proving to be a bit more of a job..
 
Up early this morning to finally get my broken exhaust fixed. One of the mechanics at work had kindly hooked me up with a stainless fabricator friend and told me to meet them at his brother's unit for seven. Walked in and immediately spotted Project Mush in the corner - turns out they're @Josh Tagg's uncle and dad. Small world.

Top job and it has totally transformed the drive.

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Replaced the alternator. What a bitch of a job. "It comes out through the wheel arch"! Does it hell. Out the bottom after draining the coolant and taking the hoses off.
 
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Replaced the alternator. What a bitch of a job. "It comes out through the wheel arch"! Does it hell. Out the bottom after draining the coolant and taking the hoses off.

Wow, one job leads to another eh! What model LC is it?
 
Replaced the alternator. What a bitch of a job. "It comes out through the wheel arch"! Does it hell. Out the bottom after draining the coolant and taking the hoses off.

Bugger, on the 120 whilst not the easiest (when you're an old fart and your joints don't play ball like they once did) after removing the osf wheel it came out the side quite easily.
 
Bit of love on the 120 yesterday. Replaced a rear disc that I/we ran a brake pad on. The discs were replaced at about 130K so the rest were ok. I'd thought on last inspection the pads would last till the 170K service but seemingly not. New disc and all new Toyota pads on the rear, the front are still ok for a while. Changed the tyres and wheels to the Conti Ice Grip I run from November till about May. MOT due by 9th Dec so got to get that ready. Last time got an advise in the drop links, the wear and play was so minimal but I replaced with Toyota from Amayama so they can't moan about them.
Greased the props while it was on the ramp. I'll give it a full service as its just got to 170K as soon as time allows.

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I noticed the tank strap not looking good so am ordering a pair from Amayama . Had to put a small patch on the N/S inner sill which had corroded through from the inside ( 4"x2"). this goes to show however you treat the outside of the sill the drain holes must be unobstructed.

Even though I've repeatedly treated the underneath the rust is still getting to it ( though its better than 97% of them) . I still think it's a great thing and it's good in a lot of respects but, like the Touareg, they are becoming cheap old bangers.
 
I read on this forum that keeping sprinklers under the car is good way to prevent rust from salt. Took car out this week with salt on road so doing this job. Scary rust.
 

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When i bought my ute, i noticed it had an important looking wire off in the engine bay...

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it's taken three years, and consultation with electrical engineer FTE Mick, to finally discover where it's supposed to go...

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Soon, maybe i'll be able to put my "check engine" bulb back in
 
It is the earth junction that is bolted to the rear of the cylinder head which it is a tight spot between the bulk head....

It is also a tell tale sign that the engine has been removed previously. :think:
 
Wheres it meant to go?
As Iwan suggested, behind the rear engine hook bracket.

The fellow who builds FTE looms says it would cause a throttle position switch error, which is exactly how it behaved...

I'm going to leave the wire off until my new handheld scanner gets here this week to see what the error code it has is, and if this cures it.
It is the earth junction that is bolted to the rear of the cylinder head which it is a tight spot between the bulk head....

It is also a tell tale sign that the engine has been removed previously. :think:
Yep, i figured the engine had been out for whatever reason, as hdj79's never came out in this colour, at least not here in Oz, and the colour change in the engine bay is too well done to have been done with the engine still in.
 
Finally got round to extending the rear axle breather. The small valve on the end of the original breather pipe was seized and just fell to pieces when I tried to free it off so I simply fitted a new, longer hose up into the body through a conveniently sited grommet (sunroof drain exit) up to the LH rear light cluster. I extended the front axle and gear box breathers up to the top of the bulkhead under the bonnet ages ago so they are all now well above the safe wading depth of a standard 80 series whatever that is. I do not intend to fit a snorkel.
 
Routine oil + filter change followed by cooling system flush and new coolant. I monitor the coolant every so often with one of those hydrometers with the 3 balls and noticed one of them had dropped indicating "medium" protection. The last change was with Halfords OAT long life (5 yrs) stuff and when I checked the date it was almost 9 years ago! The coolant that came out looked virtually identical to the new stuff, no discolouration at all or signs of corrosion or sludge so maybe I could have left it in and just topped up with fresh concentrate? Whatever, job done.:thumbup:
 
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Bit of maintenance on the Troopy after last autumns trip to Morocco/Western Sahara, in preparation for my next trip to Mauritania.

Oils & filters changed
Grease
Wheel bearings checked
Frony & rear brake pads replaced
General check over
 
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