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under the bonnet with real world usage ... sounds good

not heard of that before. Good fix. Presume some fiddling trying to get it balanced

have used . mostly ok - no charges and then odd parts get custom charges

Just call me/WhatsApp +353 87 4577 314

Threw in a new (Chinese) alternator and no difference. Dropped from 12.7v to 9v overnight. Will charge back up and start pulling each of the fusible AMx links to see what circuit is causing the issue

I've found customs hit-n-miss as regards getting stung for fees. More 'hit' last few years, especially on large items

nice offer. I've one I got from Wits-End (I think) that I've yet to try

try and do a temp measurement before the cats and after so see what the real temperatures are

nice machine

lucky no rust. Get some rust treatment applied underneath. ih8mud is your go-to for USA petrol 1fzfe trucks (I have a 97 from USA) here in Ireland Standard list of maintaince items you;ll need to go through ; did you get any service history?

looks good

I'm in Athenry with USA 80 series

good stuff. Glad it worked out ok

no. Mine is 'normal' with IGN off Running the additional checks - appears to be a bad diode in the respect I get 31v on AC reading between POS & NEG on main battery while engine running Anyone replace a regulator/diodes before? Seems to be cheapie ebay offering (quick check) or approx $130 off...

no. Mine is 'normal' with IGN off Running the additional checks - appears to be a bad diode in the respect I get 31v on AC reading between POS & NEG on main battery while engine running Anyone replace a regulator/diodes before? Seems to be cheapie ebay offering (quick check) or approx $130 off...

Did all the multi-meter in series tests to check each fuse etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. Pulled all relays & fuses overnight and still dropping. Disconnected the 4-pin connector & main battery connector (v-post) to the alternator and its holding battery power for last 2 days. Will check and...

Job hunting!!

Job hunting!!

was thru Balkans and Croatia last year. Very nice

need some pictures. Jon hunting in UAE/GCC at the moment

when was last time you changed our the brake oil? (is it DOT 3/4/5?)

Really need to get it to an LPG shop to run diagnostics to see whats happening under throttle. What LPG system. How old is it. When was last LPG service done? Know what was changed? I've a BRC 5th gen on a 97 80

Sorry to hear on your health. Good luck Nice looking truck

very modern looking design

good luck

good to get some real world experince

Do you have it up on DoneDeal? Would think you;d have better luck in UK (presume RHD). Hope you're not in a hurry if you want a good price.

I just picked up a small bluetooth microphone for my phone and was going to attach a magnet to it so can place under the truck "finding noises". Was trying to diagnose a noise I was getting but got it sorted (rear diff & pinion bearing). So will try it out in next few weeks and see how it...

lots of goodies 4 sale!

The radiator stop cock is a PITA to get to and open...

funky!

Had a nice time in Argentina when I did the PanAm a good few years back. The Steaks!!!

Sorry, I got rid of my seats a good while back. Based in Athenry

I thought I had it in a NSNS orientation but once checked via a real compass it was NSSN. Unglued the last two (SN) and reset as NS so NSNS finally and that got the motor working (w/o the gear) Once gear in its stiffer.

Got it working in the end. Was trying to to contunity testing for in & out per video but was too hard to get right My motor was a bit 'chopy' when applying power so couldn't get it to stay at 2-7/8 when extended. When putting locker back on the shift fork wouldn't line up so had to have locker...

They have a 'compass' orientation (either N or S) but going around the cover they need to be in a N-S-N-S orientation. There is no difference twisting them 180 degree 0 from up to down and v.v. They do change polarity if you twist them horz but then don't fit in cover probably.

nice writeup

Got it working in the end. Was trying to to contunity testing for in & out per video My motor was a bit 'chopy' when applying power so couldn't get it to stay at 2-7/8 when extended. When putting locker back on the shift fork wouldn't line up so had to have locker about 2mm out, screw in shift...

got the magnets redone and electric motor working now. Having issues trying to get alignment on spring. Should the spring be "wound up" when its in the locked position or unlocked?

been looking at those

I have them in a NSNS orientation. So each opposite magnet is the same. I didn't check the polarity (as it appeared via mud not needed) but maybe thats whats wrong (how do I do that?). I'm going to check via calipers that the two re-aligned magnets match the two original (and undisturbed) magnets

All cleaned and ready to go back in. Bench testing after regluing 2 Magnets back. Getting no movement when power to pin 1 & 2. Feel tiny "attempt" but no cigar (note: no gears connected so no pressue- just shaft) Feels like its binding a bit although it can spin in the cover on its own. Took 2...

Got bolt off and disconnected locker from axle ok. Got electric cover off ok but all 3 bolts on other cover snapped. Had to drill each of them out and retap. All looks good inside (other than perished o-rings) so putting back together and will bench test. Some good posts/videos on ih8mud for...

Took wheel off and more room. Finally managed (wild cold chisel and buddy) to get bolt off. Locker removed. Took off elec cylinder (3 Philips screws) and 2 of magnets loose - that explains why not moving with electrics Tried to get 3 10mm bolts off other cover and all three snapped!! Awh...

Jon, I'll give it another go but very little room up top (unless take off spring etc.) My steel epoxy lasted 5 secs and came off Otherwise will try a sideways dremel to slow cut it off (in slices)!

took off cover with and could pry plunger back to the left but would spring back again. Undid the shaft lock. Trying to get locker out now but have one top bolt thats stripping. Very little room in there unless I take off shock, spring and wheel to get some room. Even dremel won't fit in there...

interesting to see how you find it.

Have rear diff back in (only took 3-4hrs doing mechanic yoga in my driveway with a trolley jack ; PITA) Axles back in , new oil etc.. Sounds much better. Left it to my regular (older guy) mechanic and he thinks it lost the pinion preload and messup the lower pinion bearing. No kit form Rough...

awaiting on parts from RoughTrax then getting my mechanic to work on it ; as I don't have all the tools to replace new bearings etc.

Anyone used RoughTrax for rear diff rebuild ? not seeing crush sleeve