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Yeah, both batteries good and diagnostics being done with a charger still connected just to make sure I've got good power. You still doing parts?

Long time no see fellas. Poor Tonka has been mothballed while I've been recovering from chemo. Anyway, I've got the dreaded "click no start" Neither the starter relay, nor the change over relay are getting a signal so I'm looking in the direction of the changeover timer relay, anyone got the...

It's had a shit type underseal job to tart it up, but you'll be unlucky to get chassis corrosion anyway. Look closely at the rear axle top link mount pillars. A boat launching 80 will have paper thin mounts or thick with loose rust mounts hiding paper thin mounts. The panhard rod mount also...

Various pictures my toys

My offroad trips

My build thread

Hi all. 1994 MANUAL 4.2 TD Judging by the grumbling going on the front diff doesn't have long left, there was me thinking the CV's were going to go first:lol: Has anyone got a half decent front locking diff for a manual 4.2? Doesn't have to be perfect, doesn't have to be church mouse quiet...

Yeah, yeah. I know. :icon-rolleyes::eusa-naughty: So long story short, i've currently got boost light, charging light, timing belt light, brake warning and a couple of other lights stuck on but the gauges are working fine. Any idea which widget I've blown? Surely I'm not alone....

Basically a big sponsored walk which will include one of the lanes and a big mountain bike weekend means avoid the place like the plague that weekend. In fact it's probably an idea to keep clear full stop for a while, it's a political bloody war zone around there right now.:shh: keep an eye...

Ok, sounds easy. Hmmmmm, it's not. I'd like some 35's, BUT apart from simex alike copies with fairly extreme tread there are no 10" or even 11" wide 35's The problem is I'm following discos and 90 ' through welsh ruts and stone and it's ripping the hell out of my sidewalls. I'm already 2"...

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/49030-Adrian-Flux-warning-(0-10-customer-service)

And I thought I'd been screwed over when I found out the wife owed £20k and hadn't paid the mortgage for 9 months.... perspective, it's great.

What do you think about Morris Eco - trans 75w/80 ? Not quite the right heat range but then this is the UK. ... gl4 rated with no ep and as used by trucks with gear boxes an awful lot like ours.

I use Morris oils all the time but I had the same problem with my Iveco gearboxes, I ended up getting synthetic gearbox oil for trucks from smith and Allen. The only people who did a non ep grade gearbox oil as approved by Man etc in 5l containers as opposed to 255l barrels..

The problem is the difference in airflow. The open fire drew air from the vent AND the room for combustion but it also dragged excess air along with it and sent it up the chimney, The wood burner is drawing fresh air from the vent for combustion but isn't drawing that extra air along with it...

There's a weld across the top of that bracket joining it to the axle and it appears that a stress crack propagates from the ends of it. Apparently known for it when running caster correction bushes, hence overland cruisers making dedicated castor correction weld on plates and using oe rubber...

It's been doing this a while now, nothing too scary so I wasn't unduly worried. Driving along and hit the brakes it'll suddenly dart left, you wouldn't want to be unprepared for it...... Anyway, I know the pads are low and a year of laning without a proper wash / service i just sort of presumed...

Here's a picture of mine, I was hoping for worse since it's been feeling a bit "rough" since a day of basically rock crawling through wales at 600rpm with very little oil pressure Pressure seems to be up again but i'll have to wait until its good and hot before I know for sure. 150,000 miles...

Got a big bunch of keys by any chance? Quickest way to wear out an ignition barrel is heavy keys swinging around hanging off the ignition key. New key is first option, hopefully that works otherwise get a new barrel sorted. It's pretty much all a locksmith will do anyway, I find drilling the...

For people as sad as me who find this type of inches of water interesting; Www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm

For people as sad as me who find this type of inches of water interesting; Www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm

The only k&n I ever had a problem with was on a bike too. A VTR 1000. I ended up cleaning it and re - oiling it properly, fine after that. I think the problem is that some bikes can't pull excess oil out of the filter and it throws the mixture.

First diagnostic step is remove the air filter, ive seen so many "clean" filters ruined by water, just sitting in a damp garage can knacker one. hence why I already tried it, and left the lid off the air box incase the snorkel was restricting it... as good as k&n's are and as much as I like...

Lol, since I'm now at maximum boost Shayne are you sponsoring the intercooler to crank it up some more? Besides, it is actually possible to over fuel a diesel and lose power, especially if you ruin the burn like this is. All its currently doing is putting egt through the roof. injectors have...

It's not a new fault, it's always done it so I'm going along that line too, I'm sort of assuming some numpty has fiddled with the main screw. Boost was only about 0.5 bar when I got it so there's every chance it's been fiddled with. hopefully get the BEB'S done this weekend and have a fiddle...

The pump springs are next on my shopping list, I tried the push pump ages ago and it made no difference to the Rev drop.

Taking the filter out, or leaving the lid off makes no difference. Boost is fine, 0.8 all the way from 1200 to 4000.....

Hi folks, sorry i've been a tad busy of late but i need to pick some brains. Typical 4.2 Diesel, bloody gutless below 1200rpm pull like a train at 2000rpm with 0.8bar boost but it then over fuels at 3000rpm to the extent it doesn't want to pull through to 4000rpm if it's pulling a load or in a...

You should really qualify your statement when talking about winch ropes. The wire rope that gets supplied with (Any winch these days) Chinese winches is a liability, when it goes (and it does) it will whip and people can get hurt very easily but the tales of impending doom are very much...

A short one down mid wales way https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkwRLhit8Ag A longer mid wales one including Bomber lane https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfH8aR1Qe3M

Please forgive me if this has been done to death, but for the life of me i can't find it. :icon-redface: My center difflock is working, but the light isn't coming on. I was out the other day and it wouldn't come on (leaving me running the ABS gauntlet down a gravel sheep track) but then it...

2.5 rod is 2.5 rod, whether welding a BBQ or the QE2. hence why i said start at 60A and work up until it stops sticking. I''ve rarely worked below 60A with a 2.5 and rarely above 80A but it depends on welder, power supply and rod type / brand. Trying to fill a hole is a waste of time, using a...

LOL, regarding drying out rods, speak to the manufacturers and maybe read a bit about the bloke that taught me. AC Davies. The bloke who quite literally wrote the book. Technically they dry out, in practice they're not to spec and can't be used and are never the same. Taken to the nth degree...

Nothing magic about it but stainless welding is only really done for the food industry, hence the prices. A proper stainless fabrication place will basically ban any mild steel from the premises since mild steel sparks and carbon steel cutting discs will cause rust spots and stains on stainless...

Petrol wise i always found my old ZXR and ZZR didn't like BP, but it was a very old BP station. Maybe old tanks?, they both seemed much happier on Shell Diesel wise I run 2 near identical Iveco vans and time, time again they do 4mpg less on Morrisons with noticeable smoke under load and the...

It was 20mm out, not 2" ! The snorkel body covers up a multitude of adjustment sins........

Personally from trials experience, i would say it's the back wheels doing most of the work, all the front is doing is doing is countering the torque. The wrinkle in the tyres shows the weight and torque going through them. On the bikes, the problem was always having to use momentum to get to a...

If you haven't fitted new rings then semi-synthetic or even basic oil, start it up and run at fast idle for 20 min, then check over and you're good to go. If you've done rings then on and off the power, power strokes push the rings into the bore which beds them in, coasting lets them cool down...

Nothing too exiting and certainly not extreme, but quite funny to watch 90's struggle in front of me while I walk up and over stuff in my "Lardbruiser" :icon-wink: Welsh lanes in the rain http://youtu.be/klklc3gTkm4 South Shropshire in the Sunshine http://youtu.be/TFY0sM6D3h8

We use these, they also make them in red and sell them under the Hilti brand for 4x as much.... usually a bargain to be had on Ebay or screwfix http://consumer.nilfisk.co.uk/Products/VacuumCleaners/ConsumerVacuumCleaners/Wet-DryVacs/Multi20/Nilfisk_Multi20.aspx The only one to survive a property...

I used to swap the matrix pipes over, refill with plain water and repeat a few days later. Seemed to work well until I actually took one out and looked. Now I use citric acid. If it causes a leak then its done you a favour.

Huskys are great but a bugger to fit. As far as power goes, there's not a lot in it, I've measured my low profile at 500+ Amps....... always use the biggest cable anyway, 35mm for infrequent use

I'm no safety nazi, I've done things that make even my toes curl. Im also no stranger to pressure (20 years of 3000psi hydraulics) or gasses (pumped my own nitrous for 5 and i refill my portable argon bottle from a storage tank) but I wouldn't refill disposables beyond simple half fill...