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Elecronic Diesel Tuning Devices

I would run the outlet back to where its supposed to go Fridayman its removing the oil that's important . Provent is the obvious choice but i don't like that they use a filter , if the vent gets blocked it will likely cause overheating rather than prevent it .

Mine is plumbed into the airbox because of the Econokit that I have fitted.

The Provent has 2 pressure relief valves in case the user forgets to change the filter so there is no risk.
 
The catch cans that have a internal channel seem to work well. This forces the air to go down and back up, thus leaving the oil at the bottom... Steel wool seems to be a good bonus if the catch can opens up to help even more.

I'm not a fan of the filter one's either as I've heard they can get clogged up pretty quickly, especially if you're doing the miles. However, they do seem to work the best as there job.
 
Turned my fuel down today - all the way down and i'm somewhat baffled by the result . I was almost trying to convince myself the truck was quieter and had less power but it wasn't and hadn't . I'm talking about 3 full turns anti clockwise to the stop and the only difference i could detect while being honest with myself is a drop in torque :? and i only noticed that because i've become habitually lazy changing gear as a result of having so much torque she would still accelerate albeit slowly while going uphill at 20mph in 4th gear .

I delayed posting until Helen reported back after driving it to work tonight , she had know idea what i had done or why i just told her i had changed something with the engine so to let me know how it feels . She has just text saying nothing different , makes her truck seem very slow and maybe it sounds a bit more tractor like but that could be because she hasn't driven it for a while .
 
Turned my fuel down today - all the way down and i'm somewhat baffled by the result . I was almost trying to convince myself the truck was quieter and had less power but it wasn't and hadn't . I'm talking about 3 full turns anti clockwise to the stop and the only difference i could detect while being honest with myself is a drop in torque :? and i only noticed that because i've become habitually lazy changing gear as a result of having so much torque she would still accelerate albeit slowly while going uphill at 20mph in 4th gear .

I delayed posting until Helen reported back after driving it to work tonight , she had know idea what i had done or why i just told her i had changed something with the engine so to let me know how it feels . She has just text saying nothing different , makes her truck seem very slow and maybe it sounds a bit more tractor like but that could be because she hasn't driven it for a while .

Strange results Shayne... especially turning it down 3 whole turns. That's a LOT!! You should run it for a while and see if you get better MPG. It should also drop your idle speed. I've never went that way before so I have no experience with how the engine should behave. But I'm thinking to myself that maybe there's a certain point where trying to lessen the fuel cuts off completely and so turning it more wont have an affect?
 
Turned my fuel down today - all the way down and i'm somewhat baffled by the result . I was almost trying to convince myself the truck was quieter and had less power but it wasn't and hadn't . I'm talking about 3 full turns anti clockwise to the stop and the only difference i could detect while being honest with myself is a drop in torque :? and i only noticed that because i've become habitually lazy changing gear as a result of having so much torque she would still accelerate albeit slowly while going uphill at 20mph in 4th gear .

I delayed posting until Helen reported back after driving it to work tonight , she had know idea what i had done or why i just told her i had changed something with the engine so to let me know how it feels . She has just text saying nothing different , makes her truck seem very slow and maybe it sounds a bit more tractor like but that could be because she hasn't driven it for a while .

I suspect that it has to do with the air temp sensor that you moved. Does/didyour car smoke at all e.g. when you give it a boot full (easiest to tell is when another car is following you at night and it shows in their headlights)?
 
Side exit exhaust and there was a little black smoke if you looked for it which is why i decided to turn it down a touch , i have lost all track of where it was originally so turning it down completely was just a spur of the moment experiment . I got out of town today on some faster roads and discovered she has lost power as a result , Before a blip of the throttle at any speed would get you an instant boost but now it just gets faster gradually . I turned it up a quarter turn already and its not enough .
 
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Before a blip of the throttle at any speed would get you an instant boost but now it just gets faster gradually . I turned it up a quarter turn already and its not enough .
I was with Shayne today and can confirm he can still spin the front wheels though. :icon-surprised:
 
Reverting to page 3 of this thread when EGR removal/blanking was being discussed I gave up trying to undo the egr takeoff on the 16/09/2013 believing it already had a blanking plate in there .

Here is the offending nut which required an E18 metrinch socket lots of penetrating oil and some considerable force to crack even with the manifold removed .

EGR 002.JPG

And here is the ill fitting gasket that i assumed must be a blanking plate because who makes a gasket that doesn't fit ... especially as there are 2 of them ?

EGR 003.JPG

So i am embarrassed to admit that it looks like i have had an active egr all along which may explain why my intake was always dirtier than i felt it should be , black oil is probably unburnt fuel mixed with dirty exhaust . Nevermind might save someone else buying a turbo they don't need in search of an answer :|
 
That would definitely explain the build up of carbon on the turbo. Hopefully she'll run better with it blanked now, plus it should also help lower temps a little! :icon-biggrin:
 
Be nice to find out the sensor in my intercooler actually measures oxygen :icon-wink:
 
I expect it's a MAP sensor Shayne. Manifold Absolute Pressure.
 
2 sensors on the 1kz Rich usually referred to as pressure and temperature , ecu controlled fuelling so ......
 
Oxygen sensors are usually fitted in the exhaust.
 
It may be of interest to anyone who follows this thread that the maxspeedingrods turbo i have just fitted comes with an adjustable actuator so boost could be set without a boost controller . I didn't alter it and refitted the controller as i have it anyway but turned the dial down as far as it would go out of respect for "running in" . Regardless of this as far as i can tell she boosts at 14 psi anyway . I can't be certain because i can only hold full boost for any length of time in 5th gear which requires a motorway test .

The only other indication i can give with regards to performance is while toodling along in traffic at 25mph in 3rd gear at 1500rpm i was boosting at 4 psi which would i imagine benefit mpg ?
 
It may be of interest to anyone who follows this thread that the maxspeedingrods turbo i have just fitted comes with an adjustable actuator so boost could be set without a boost controller . I didn't alter it and refitted the controller as i have it anyway but turned the dial down as far as it would go out of respect for "running in" . Regardless of this as far as i can tell she boosts at 14 psi anyway . I can't be certain because i can only hold full boost for any length of time in 5th gear which requires a motorway test .

The only other indication i can give with regards to performance is while toodling along in traffic at 25mph in 3rd gear at 1500rpm i was boosting at 4 psi which would i imagine benefit mpg ?

I'm guessing the actuator has a thread and bolt on it to adjust the length of the rod? Though this is good and all, you'll still get boost leak when the turbo is reaching near max boost. So you'll still be better off running a boost controller which will hold the waste gate closed until 14psi is reached. That fact it's running 14psi with your controller down shows where it's been pre-set, plus I would imagine the actuator would be brand new so the spring should be strong.

At 1500RPM I would imagine the turbo is starting to spool hence the 4PSI pressure. I also would have thought you would be seeing full boost throughout the gears once past 2000RPM or so?
 
Correct on all counts Beau , what i mean is gears aren't tall enough to allow more than a quick glance at the boost gauge which is small so only shows 5 , 10 , 15 and 20 psi in bold text . i haven't driven it much so the above are just passing observations i'm still in that searching for faults phase you get when your asking yourself what did i forget to tighten , oil , grease :icon-rolleyes: it will pass it always does ..... it's a Landcruiser :dance:
 
Might be worth looking at gauge with peak recall function? that way you can see peak boost achieved without studying the gauge whilst driving.
 
Yes i have a fancy 3 in 1 gauge sat on a shelf Mark but vague plans on the wishlist for a custom centre console and a modified dash have kept it on the shelf . Also i care little for numbers for me its all about how it feels which is why i turned the fuel down again .
 
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Yes i have a fancy 3 in 1 gauge sat on a shelf Mark but vague plans on the wishlist for a custom centre console and a modified dash have kept it on the shelf . Also i care little for numbers for me its all about how it feels which is why i turned the fuel down again .

I forgot whether you had a EGT Gauge fitted or not? It's good way to tune the engine without being on the Dyno. You can see where increasing the fuel too much may lead to higher temps. I've read increasing boost, whilst leaving your fuel alone will decrease EGT, to a point. But like you said, it's all about how it feels, especially when it comes down to these old engines. On a side note, the latest "prado" D4D engines have a 2.8 engine, but more power. I wonder how they'll hold up!
 
Yes i should stop faffing about a get the gauges in and just stick a pod on the windscreen column , not my preference but the temporary boost gauge only intended for use during set up has sat there held only by the pipe wedged into the dash for ages and i rarely think about it any more . I guess i am being lazy about it because i honestly don't feel i need them , she does what she does with ease , i'm sure most are under the impression i enjoy tearing up the tarmac with aggressive driving but the truth is i couldn't drive this beast aggressively if i wanted to . I don't need the clutch to cause wheel spin on dry roads it will happen if i accelerate without thought . That's the buzz of it and that's what i like most about my truck , it demands you remain alert and focused .

With regards to the new D4D more power from a 2.8 modern engine doesn't surprise me at all , no doubt it is micro managed to a point where it controls the driver rather than the other way round . I wouldn't expect any mechanical issues with the engine either because no doubt it is programmed to smack you in the face if your oil change is a little late or your foot a little heavy and Toyota can fine you a grand or two to plug it into there dealer only computer and press a button . In my cynical view life expectancy will be about 10 years because the spotty faced teenager who can't remember what he had for breakfast that designed the program is the only person on the planet who actually knows how it works and that will pack up long before the engine itself gets tired .

I was born a grumpy old man and i keep getting older :lol:
 
YYY
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