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KDJ95 Its not running right
- Thread starter Green Man
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both my 1kd and my 1kz are both swb but body wise they are identical and you can't get the sock out without dropping the tank , I forgot to put mine back in and had to drop the tank again 
https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/kzj90-first-used-may-12th-1998.148004/
https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/kzj90-first-used-may-12th-1998.148004/
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Green Man
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Working through the list inspection plate above fuel tank only goes to the tank float fuel level so cant get to fuel sock without dropping tank.
I had a thought if I had a battery problem not enough power to ecu would this be giving me these symptoms.
I forgot to mention that prior to these problems I had left hazards on all night and had to jump start truck the next day.
I had a thought if I had a battery problem not enough power to ecu would this be giving me these symptoms.
I forgot to mention that prior to these problems I had left hazards on all night and had to jump start truck the next day.
So, before this occurred, the truck was running sweet as anything and after this you have the problem? I’ve not heard or encountered this but I guess it’s possible. Test the voltage across the battery terminals when running. Should be 14.4v or close to. If the battery is almost fully charged it could well go down to 13.8v.
One thing you could try is to disconnect the battery (ies) for a few minutes and reconnect. This often resets an ECU (not sure on this truck), short the leads together once batteries are disconnected (not across the battery terminals of course) then reconnect and try.
One possibility I’m really hoping has not happened is that the jump start could have caused the alternator to give a ‘spike’ or momentary over voltage. This sort of thing can cause damage to ECUs.
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With simplest things first in mind give the battery terminals and connections a real good scrub up , i pulled my truck apart once looking for a fault only to find out afterwards when i decided to clean the terminals out of boredom that one connection pretty much fell apart when i went at it with sandpaper , Roughtrax sell genuine Toyota connections and the maddening problem i couldn't find was fixed as a result .
Search the engine bay for a build up of black oil mist which would indicate a boost leak , fuel and boost are electronically managed on this engine so if your boost pressure is low it will also limit how much fuel is pumped in .
Another possibility is air in the fuel line maybe , happened to my 1kz after i had dropped the tank to paint it but i suppose it could happen if you had a leak in the line somewhere .
Starcruiser , fbnss and me managed to remove the air in a field in Germany with Rich pumping compressed air into the fuel filler cap , Nick pumping like a girl on the fuel filter primer and with me underneath getting a diesel shower as i replaced the flowing return line to the tank .
This could be ruled out by running a bottle of diesel direct to the pump .
I think its fair to say the 1kd is considered to be mostly bomb proof and in all my years on the forum the suction control valves have been the only reported weakness and even then there's been only a handful of reported cases . Mind you not many of the the D4D 90 series made it to the UK to begin with .
Search the engine bay for a build up of black oil mist which would indicate a boost leak , fuel and boost are electronically managed on this engine so if your boost pressure is low it will also limit how much fuel is pumped in .
Another possibility is air in the fuel line maybe , happened to my 1kz after i had dropped the tank to paint it but i suppose it could happen if you had a leak in the line somewhere .
Starcruiser , fbnss and me managed to remove the air in a field in Germany with Rich pumping compressed air into the fuel filler cap , Nick pumping like a girl on the fuel filter primer and with me underneath getting a diesel shower as i replaced the flowing return line to the tank .
This could be ruled out by running a bottle of diesel direct to the pump .
I think its fair to say the 1kd is considered to be mostly bomb proof and in all my years on the forum the suction control valves have been the only reported weakness and even then there's been only a handful of reported cases . Mind you not many of the the D4D 90 series made it to the UK to begin with .
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Green Man
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Update so tried to start truck this morning turned over and over but would not start so gone from running poor to not running at all
I had a new battery in the workshop so fitted that just for peace of mind
I took the fuel filter off again and refitted it just to be safe no joy
I blow air from the filter feed pipe back to the tank I could hear bubbles at the filler cap
I ran diesel straight into the supply pump nothing
I then took the inter cooler off to access injectors cracked one off no diesel coming through
I then cracked the pipe off from the filter to the supply pump and I get diesel so from tank to supply pump i'm assuming all ok
I then cracked off pipe that goes from supply pump to common rail nothing comes out when cranked
So I guess it is like many of you have said SCV 's I did run a continuity and resistance test on both SCV's and they were normal but I still think it could be this unless any off you can think of any thing else
Thank for all your input along the way I really appreciate it
I had a new battery in the workshop so fitted that just for peace of mind
I took the fuel filter off again and refitted it just to be safe no joy
I blow air from the filter feed pipe back to the tank I could hear bubbles at the filler cap
I ran diesel straight into the supply pump nothing
I then took the inter cooler off to access injectors cracked one off no diesel coming through
I then cracked the pipe off from the filter to the supply pump and I get diesel so from tank to supply pump i'm assuming all ok
I then cracked off pipe that goes from supply pump to common rail nothing comes out when cranked
So I guess it is like many of you have said SCV 's I did run a continuity and resistance test on both SCV's and they were normal but I still think it could be this unless any off you can think of any thing else
Thank for all your input along the way I really appreciate it
Was your truck fine before you jump started it?
If you’re lucky it’s the SCVs.
I hope you are lucky as otherwise it could be a fried ECU from a spike from jump starting.
If you’re lucky it’s the SCVs.
I hope you are lucky as otherwise it could be a fried ECU from a spike from jump starting.
Green Man
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Yep it was ok and it was ok after for a bit I when i jumped it it was just off a charger not a starter charger I guess there must be some checks i can do to thecu to find out if its ok
Did you simply charge the battery, turn the charger off then start or did you start with the charger connected then disconnect or did you switch the charger off then disconnect?
Green Man
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Then how did you disconnect? Switch off charger then disconnect or just disconnect the charger with power still applied?
Green Man
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Switched off then disconnect
Difficult to say but hopefully you haven’t caused your alternator to give a spike when it took up charge when the charger was switched off.
Next step is SCVs. There’s tests but only swapping them is 100% certain. You could send your ECU away to ECU doctor who would test it for you. I think he doesn’t charge unless he has to fix so might be worth having a word. I’m not sure if swapping the ECU with another truck would work, it may do but if it’s anything like my cursed Smart car, you have to change fusebox, instruments and keys to test.
Easiest step but more costly is to change SCVs. When you do this ensure the area is scrupulously clean so that not one grain of dust gets in while they are out.
Quick caution for anyone thinking of loosening nuts on the the common rail system. Use extreme caution and wear gloves and goggles plus shield with a towel when this is done. These systems operate up to 30,000 psi and there can be residual pressures after switch off. Don’t even consider it while the engine is running. Fluid can pass through skin at these pressures and the only way to get it back out is to remove flesh. Not nice! Best thing is to avoid doing it at all.
Next step is SCVs. There’s tests but only swapping them is 100% certain. You could send your ECU away to ECU doctor who would test it for you. I think he doesn’t charge unless he has to fix so might be worth having a word. I’m not sure if swapping the ECU with another truck would work, it may do but if it’s anything like my cursed Smart car, you have to change fusebox, instruments and keys to test.
Easiest step but more costly is to change SCVs. When you do this ensure the area is scrupulously clean so that not one grain of dust gets in while they are out.
Quick caution for anyone thinking of loosening nuts on the the common rail system. Use extreme caution and wear gloves and goggles plus shield with a towel when this is done. These systems operate up to 30,000 psi and there can be residual pressures after switch off. Don’t even consider it while the engine is running. Fluid can pass through skin at these pressures and the only way to get it back out is to remove flesh. Not nice! Best thing is to avoid doing it at all.
