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LJ70 Build Thread!

Dang, even that cardboard tank looks the biz. I can't even wrap a present in a box, never mind make a box.

I seem to recall that Trev's 70 was very flexi too Ben. Have your bushes just gone hard?
 
Buy Erin a really nice push bike :icon-biggrin: :icon-wink:

Shes already got one and I said to her why dont you cycle to the station and leave your bike locked up there all day. :icon-biggrin:

Apparently she cant cycle in office attire. :doh:

Dang, even that cardboard tank looks the biz. I can't even wrap a present in a box, never mind make a box.

I seem to recall that Trev's 70 was very flexi too Ben. Have your bushes just gone hard?


:lol:

Thanks Chris. Hoping to have a load more sheets of 3mm steel at work next week, then I can guillotine and fold all the sections for the tank and take it to TAFE and TIG weld it all together, then I'm going to send it off to be elecro plated. :thumbup:

Trev's 70 was an earlier one so had a slightly different suspension setup. His radius and trailing arms had pins on the end as opposed to a bush with a bolt through, and his front shocks wernt inside the springs like mine.:think:

I've recently changed all the bushes. :icon-cool:

I'm very envious of how well 80's flex even as standard! :icon-biggrin:
 
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You see, being able to fold and guillotine - what a difference that makes. I have a plasma, but I daren't get it out. Last time I sliced through my new ladders. Oops. I'm not even safe with scissors.
 
:lol:

The guillotine is good but it will only do up to 4mm and the break press will only fold 6-8mm if its a small piece maybe 100mm wide max. Otherwise it will only fold sheet up to about 4mm. :doh:

I'd love work even more if we had a big guillotine and break press capable of say 8mm. Then I could easily make winch trays etc.

I had to design and make a winch tray/winch bumper this week (pics when I get chance. :icon-wink:) and as we hadnt got any sheet the right thickness or a means of cutting and bending it i had to make the tray differently to how I would have liked. :|

The other thing I'd really like is a descent mandrel tube bender so I could make roll cages easier! I actually designed and made a really nifty tool yesterday to go on our small tube bender to stop it from kinking the tube, again pics to follow. :icon-biggrin:

That tool now means I can make my roof rack using the tube we've got heaps of at work. :dance:

I feel I've drowned on a bit there. :oops:

I guess what i'm trying to say is in a workshop with bigger/better machines I could make some amazing things a lot easier and better. :icon-biggrin:

One day! :icon-cool:

I think ultimately I'd like to design and build comp trucks for things like the Malaysian Rain Forest Challenge, Tough Truck, King of the Hammers etc. :icon-twisted: :auto-layrubber:

Cant see me going back to working in the construction industry anytime soon! :eusa-naughty:

4wd's are more fun!:dance:
 
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Pics are all there now. :dance:

Just read the entire thread, top work! :clap:

Very interesting and now I feel inspired to re-design my suspension setup for maximum articulation! :icon-twisted:

Did you find the handbrake cable was long enough? :think:

Have you done anything with the front yet?

I saw you mention you moving the front shocks outside of the springs. Do you think that will make much difference?

It would make things a lot easier for me if I was to convert LJ to take 80 series springs and shocks. :think:

80's are so common down here and sourcing suspension for them is very easy! :icon-biggrin:
 
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:lol:

The guillotine is good but it will only do up to 4mm and the break press will only fold 6-8mm if its a small piece maybe 100mm wide max. Otherwise it will only fold sheet up to about 4mm. :doh:

I'd love work even more if we had a big guillotine and break press capable of say 8mm. Then I could easily make winch trays etc.

I had to design and make a winch tray/winch bumper this week (pics when I get chance. :icon-wink:) and as we hadnt got any sheet the right thickness or a means of cutting and bending it i had to make the tray differently to how I would have liked. :|

The other thing I'd really like is a descent mandrel tube bender so I could make roll cages easier! I actually designed and made a really nifty tool yesterday to go on our small tube bender to stop it from kinking the tube, again pics to follow. :icon-biggrin:

That tool now means I can make my roof rack using the tube we've got heaps of at work. :dance:

I feel I've drowned on a bit there. :oops:

I guess what i'm trying to say is in a workshop with bigger/better machines I could make some amazing things a lot easier and better. :icon-biggrin:

One day! :icon-cool:

I think ultimately I'd like to design and build comp trucks for things like the Malaysian Rain Forest Challenge, Tough Truck, King of the Hammers etc. :icon-twisted: :auto-layrubber:

Cant see me going back to working in the construction industry anytime soon! :eusa-naughty:

4wd's are more fun!:dance:

What you need (or they) is a Universal Iron Worker - bends, punches, crops, sheers, notches, angle, plate, sheet, round bar you name it! We used to sell these Pirahna
 
Thats awesome! :clap:

I want one! :drool:

I've heard about them, the guy who makes most of our battery trays uses one. Not seen that video before though. :icon-biggrin:

Just working on a thread update! :icon-wink:
 
This week I had to make a winch bar for the front of a customers Grand Vitara.

I'd have loved to have made the main section out of one piece of 6mm plate bent into a big C section with the winch in the middle. But as that wasnt an option I had to make it using the materials we had, so I used 75mm x 50mm angle for the main winch tray.

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I added a piece of 25mm angle to help support the sheet metal that I would be fitting on top later.

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I cut the ends back on an angle.

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It is mounted using 3 M14 bolts through the chassis, with crush tubes inside the chassis.

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I welded in a piece of 6mm flat to fill in between the angle.

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I added some checkered plate to the top.

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I riveted the checkered plate on to the top of the winch bar with a bead of silicon underneath.

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I had to fit a water tank underneath the tray of a customers ute.

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This is the tank.

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I had to make up some new brackets for it and get it bolted in place.

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I made a bracket to mount the tap.

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It had a long range tank fitted which was made by a company round the corner from us which I took great interest in as obviously I want to build one for LJ.

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We got this Suzuki Sierra in last year after a young guy rolled it.

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We decided it was just too good to strip for parts. The engine runs beautifully and the body had no rust on it. So the plan was to turn it into a farm car/pig shooting truck.

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My boss wanted me to build some half doors for it. The idea was to have a small light weight door just to help keep people in and offer a bit of protection.

This is what I was given for inspiration.

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I wasnt a fan of that design so decided to make it out of 20mm tube.

We were missing the correct size former for the tube and when I tried using the next size up it kept kinking the tube. :thumbdown:

So I bought the correct former.

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But it was still kinking the tube. :doh:

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It didnt kink quite so bad with the correct former but it did still kink.

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I found it would bend so far and then would suddenly pop and shoot out of the former and kink in the process.

So I decided to make a tool to keep it tight in the former.

So I cut 2 pieces of angle and then cut the one side of the angle down so it had a small return on it, and cut a piece of tube and then cut it down the center it to give me a small piece of half round tube.

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I then cut a piece of 6mm to go on top to bridge the 2 pieces of angle.

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And welded it all together.

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It was a nice tight fit over the 20mm tube.

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With the tube tight into the former I could then slide the tool into place.

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And this time I was able to get much better bends than before, still a tiny kink but much more acceptable.

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I added a hole to allow me to view the line marked on the center of the former versus the line marked on the tube.

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I could then make some doors!

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I made a cardboard template to give me the shape of the door so I used that to help me bend the tube to the right size and shape.

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Marked where it needed cutting.

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And cut it on the bandsaw.

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I ground the 2 ends to create a V for me to fill with weld, so that when I grind the weld down after its still got some weld left, and clamped it in the vice ready for welding.

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After making the first one using the cardboard template I made a more permanent one out of alluminium.

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Next I started bending a piece of tube for the middle.

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So one complete door with the 2 clamps weighs less than 3kg. :icon-cool:

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I needed to remove the hinges from the old doors.

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I couldnt get one of the philips headed bolts out.

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So I had to weld a bolt on.

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Hinges on.

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Followed by the door.

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I made some more doors as my boss wanted 6 in total. 2 for this car, 2 for another project were working on and 2 for the show room.

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The next thing to look at was the latch to keep it closed.

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When the previous welder built the other doors he used the original latch.

But I didnt think it would look right.

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So I decided to try and make something. I wanted a latch that would be very simple, light and easy to use.

Drilled some holes in a piece of flat.

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Bent it.

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Cut and bent a piece of stainless steel rod.

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Drilled it (shit stainless is hard to drill!)

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Found some roll pins and springs.

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And put the bits together.

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I think I'm on the right lines with it, but I'm going to see what our local engineering suppliers has first as they do sell lots of different weld on latches and locks so they may sell something that will work perfectly. If they dont I will tweak my design to make it a bit more aesthetically pleasing. :icon-smile:

The next job was to build a roll cage for the car. The cage that is currently sat in it is a display one out of the show room. I need to build one the same and then add a front hoop around where the windscreen should be and then brace it back to the other hoop.

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Fortunately the last welder left me a jig.

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I cut and started bending tube.

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I will finish that next week.

OK........................

Frankenzuke next.

The guy from the graphics company came in this week to apply the graphics hes designed for us.

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So Frankenzuke is almost ready for the magazine photo shoot and filming for TV. :dance:

My TIG welding next.........................

I was back at TAFE today doing more practicing.

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My butt welds are getting better.

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And my fillet welds arnt too bad either.

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So I then went on to welding in the over head position, sitting down.

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And then the overhead standing up position, as this is what I will need to do on the test.

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Not easy, in fact its bloody hard. I will explain why in a minute!

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OK..........................

I thought I might explain TIG to those who dont have much/any knowledge of it. :icon-ugeek:

(Apologies if you already know all this, but I'm sure some of you wont.)

Before starting this course I knew that TIG was a type of welding that is highly skilled and is often used for things like alluminium and stainless, but that was pretty much all I did know.

So this is the machine.

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Which is hooked up to Argon shielding gas, which is an inert gas meaning its non reactive so it doesnt burn. It is there purely to shield the weld pool from the atmosphere which would contaminate it.

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These are the Tungstan's that go in the welding torch and they strike the arc between the torch and the metal your trying to weld.

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They need grinding to a point and they need re-grinding quite often, especially when your learning to weld. I will explain more in a minute.

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OK so you have a foot pedal that controls the Amps (power coming out of the torch), you have the torch with the tungsten protruding slightly from the end, and you have the filler rod.

So in one hand you have the torch and have to slowly move along where your trying to weld, at the same time you have to feed in the filler rod and while doing that with both hands you have to use the foot pedal to control the amps.

Now the tip of the tungsten needs to be held just above the work, if it touches the work the end of the tungsten needs regrinding. The filler rod needs feeding into the weld pool created by the tungsten, but it cant touch the tungsten or else the tungsten needs regrinding again.

OK........................

Now try doing all that stood up basically on one leg as the other foot is doing the foot pedal and trying to weld above your head! :icon-confused:

Not easy! :think:

So for my overhead butt welds I first tacked 2 pieces of 3mm sheet steel together like this.

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Then I tried welding them over head whilst stood on one leg.

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So its not easy, in fact its bloody hard! :icon-rolleyes:

But I will keep practicing and hopefully I will get it and pass the test! :icon-biggrin:

Tomorrow I'm off to do some more filming for 4WD TV in preparation for next weekend. :icon-cool:

As next weekend I'm off to Tough Truck to film it! :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance:
 
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Thanks for the TIG lesson!

With the Sierra latch, I'd mount it the other way up so it's gravity loaded, basically if the spring snaps/fails then the latch would stay down and the door shut. That's the climber in me coming out.... All screw gates are gravity loaded, and karabiners are opposing gates if used next to one another.
 
Never had a problem with the handbrake, thought i would but never seemed to, when flexing the front end my springs come into contact with the shocks so is definatly limiting it, how much I don't know, I think this may be why the early 70s seem to flex a bit better upfront as they are separate, same with the 80s
 
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That is a pretty fun statement you just made there Hairyguy, because all i've ever heard is that with the new suspension setup with McPherson suspension, and the new radius arms the newer bodystyle is much more flexible.. And the old setup with separate springs/shocks up front is stiffer.. But what do i know? =P But your build is very interesting, i'd love to try and build something like that in my '87 Lj70 ;)
 
Thanks guys. :thumbup:

No time for an update this week unfortunately! :thumbdown:

Things are just far too hectic right now, its ridiculous! :icon-rolleyes:

Dreaming of moving to Byron Bay and taking semi retirement and just working 2-3 days a week, just enough money to survive. :think:

Its 5am here and today is going to be another 13 hour day. :doh:

Anyway......................................

Filming Saturday went well at the Victorian Hound Hunters open day. Lots of 4x4's, guns, dogs and amazing free wild venison steak, burgers and sausages. I think Chris would have loved it! :clap:

So this Thursday I'm off to Tough Truck filming!!!!!!!!!!!! :banana-jumprope: :happy-bouncygreen: :greetings-clapping: :happy-cheerleaderk:

I will get a Media pass and Shirt and with those 2 things I will have access to every where on the site, more access that the competitors and of course the thousands of spectators! The atmosphere is going to be amazing and I will be as close to the action as I dare get! :dance:

Excited is an understatement! :lol:

So just another 3 13 hour days of work and work and TAFE and I will be off on the 12 hour drive! :sleeping-sleep:

Pics and videos to follow guys!!! :icon-wink:

Oh almost forgot................................

Erin and I are waiting to hear back about an amazing property we've found. Fingers crossed we get it! :pray:
 
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Wow, busy busy busy! Hope all goes well, waiting for the You tube vids? good luck with the house, enjoy the weekend :)
 
OK so you have a foot pedal that controls the Amps (power coming out of the torch), you have the torch with the tungsten protruding slightly from the end, and you have the filler rod.

So in one hand you have the torch and have to slowly move along where your trying to weld, at the same time you have to feed in the filler rod and while doing that with both hands you have to use the foot pedal to control the amps.

Now the tip of the tungsten needs to be held just above the work, if it touches the work the end of the tungsten needs regrinding. The filler rod needs feeding into the weld pool created by the tungsten, but it cant touch the tungsten or else the tungsten needs regrinding again.

OK........................

Now try doing all that stood up basically on one leg as the other foot is doing the foot pedal and trying to weld above your head! :icon-confused:

Not easy! :eusa-think:

Why do you need the foot pedal ?

When I learned to weld, whe were learned to set the machine in the correct amp setting and adjust with the height of the torch and speed of filling the puddle with filler rod.

I must say that for tig welding alloy it would be handy, as you need some extra power to get enough heat in your work piece to get it going.

but practice make everything.

take a look on this site for some extra inspiration :icon-wink:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/shop-tools/835131-offical-pretty-weld-thread.html

good luck with the house :pray:
 
Thanks guys. :thumbup:

Why do you need the foot pedal ?

When I learned to weld, we were taught to set the machine to the correct amp setting and adjust with the height of the torch and speed of filling the puddle with filler rod.

I must say that for tig welding alloy it would be handy, as you need some extra power to get enough heat in your work piece to get it going.

but practice make everything.

take a look on this site for some extra inspiration :icon-wink:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/shop-tools/835131-offical-pretty-weld-thread.html

good luck with the house :pray:

Thanks Peter. :icon-biggrin:

Interesting about not using the peddle. :think:

To start with I wasnt using the peddle, I was just setting the amps and putting my foot all the way down on the peddle. But my tutor said I really need to get used to using the foot peddle.
Since using the foot peddle more I do quite like it. Say you want 90 amps you can set it to a 100 and then just back off the peddle slightly to give you your 90 amps, as sometimes you might need a little bit more, and thats when its useful having that extra power on tap without having to touch the machine. Its also useful being able to back off the peddle slightly towards the end of the weld. :think:

I love the link by the way, some beautiful welds on that page! :clap:
 
OK guys I decided to cancel going to TAFE tonight, hence why I've found time for an update. I feel exhausted, yesterday I worked for 16 hours straight, and if I had of gone to TAFE tonight my next bit of down time wouldn't have been till Tuesday evening. :sleeping-sleep:

Anyway.....................

I've not come on here to moan about how many hours I'm working, oh no! :eusa-naughty:

I've had a great day, feel like I've won the lottery or something! :lol:

We got the house and the holiday! :dance:

The agent called today to say our application was successful and the house is ours!!!!!! :happy-bouncymultic:

As I'm away all this weekend filming at Tough Truck I'm hoping to move in next Saturday. :icon-cool:

Erin is planning a big 4 week trip to Europe in July/August and has been asking me for ages if I can come with her for any of it. So I asked my bosses today if I can take a few weeks off and they have said yes that should be fine, I just need to give them the exact dates. :dance:

So the plan is to fly to the UK with Erin and I will hire a car at the airport when we land, then spend a week showing Erin the best bits of the UK, party with her Nelson and Danny and go to Global Gathering. Then I will have a week at home with my family and friends before flying home, I'm also hoping to squeeze in a couple of green laning trips! (Brett, Steven. :icon-wink:) :banana-guitar:

Will be great to see everyone again after what will have been 18months away in my new country. :flags-australia:


Anyway.........................

I need to crack on with the update, its Wednesday evening now and I've got loads still to sort out before I leave for Tough Truck tomorrow. :icon-biggrin:

I didnt manage to get many pics from the Hound Hunters day as I was pretty busy filming, but I did get a few for you.

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It was interesting to learn about the sport and how it all works. The hunters have to have a gun license and then a hound dog license and then each dog has to be individually licensed, this involves the dogs being inspected and measured by experts and only certain breeds are allowed.

The dogs track the deer and chase them then the hunters shoot them, at no point are the dogs allowed to touch the deer, they merely track and follow them. :icon-biggrin:

There were a few speeches at the end which were quite interesting. There was an English guy who was saying that he moved over here when they banned hunting with dogs in the UK. He said that for years people were saying oh they will never ban it and then they did! He said we need to not to be so complacent as to think it wont get banned over here and that we need to fight to keep the sport alive.

One of the other guys gave a speech and was saying how people need to be much more careful with pics they post on social media sites and forums because the anti's are getting hold of the pics and using them as ammunition against us. :think:


Anyway back to LJ.....................................

I noticed the rear diff had been leaking recently between the diff and the axle casing, so the first job was to drain the oil.

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It didn't look too bad, not clean but no water contamination either which was nice. The magnetic drain plug also looked pretty good with only a tiny amount of swarf present which could have been missed last time the ring gear decided to explode. Or it could have been from the new ring and pinion wearing in.

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Now I wanted to try and fix the leak without disconnecting the brakes and pulling the half shafts out.

So I jacked the rear axle up until the wheels were off the ground.

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I unbolted the diff and cleaned around the casing with a wire brush.

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I was then able to lever the diff and axle apart slightly.

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I picked up some diff oil and RTV sealant.

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I cleaned the mating faces using a wire brush and then thinners.

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And then squeezed a good bead of sealant in between the 2 mating faces all the way round.

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I left it for an hour for the sealant to harden a bit and then pushed the diff back into place and tightened all the bolts up.

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Another leak that needed fixing was the winch.

Now the winch shouldn't be able to leak unless the drain plug comes loose or the casing cracks, as the oil level is below the oil seal for the drum. :think:

Yet mine had been leaking. :?

So bullbar off.

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Grill off.

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Winch out.

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Drain plug was tight still and the casing wasnt cracked. :?

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With the drain plug removed I tipped the winch up over a tray and instantly realised what had happened! The winch had got water in it and and the oil had floated on the water and been pushed out past the oil seal. :doh:

It must have happened on the last trip where I got stuck in a river with water lapping over the bonnet and Michael had to winch me back out. :think:

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I decided to drill a hole in the bottom of the winch tray below where the drain plug is, so that in future I wont have to pull the winch out to drop the oil.

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I was then able to bolt the winch and bar back on.

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The rope was pretty dirty so I unspooled it all and gave it a good clean.

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After all the watery oil had drained out I could refit the drain plug.

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And put some fresh oil in it.

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As LJ hadnt been driven for nearly 2 months I stuck the batteries on charge.

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And that was Sundays work on LJ.

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I must connect up the air line to the breather tube on the winch so that at the flick of a switch I can fill the winch with positive pressure before any water crossings. :icon-cool:

Yesterday I had to drive a few hours North of Melbourne to do some work on a farm and as its pretty rural the risk of livestock/roos/wombats wondering into the road is high and I didn't want to risk taking the Astra as it could easily get written off, so instead I took LJ. :icon-biggrin:

Was a very early start but it felt amazing to be back behind the wheel of LJ!

One of the reasons I'm getting my own place is so that my weekends will be free to get more work done on LJ and to get out on heaps more trips! :dance:

I realise that the last 6months+ I've spent far too much time working which isnt what I moved over here for! :thumbdown:

Anyway...................

So I left really early.

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Got to the property 100 miles away and as it had been raining a bit LJ was no longer covered in dust which had accumulated over the last few months in the garage.

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LJ made it there and back without any issues, and the rear diff isnt leaking! :icon-biggrin:

I had to do a load of painting then I got to have some fun. I spent a lot of time driving round in a Gaitor! :dance:

Awesome bit of kit! :clap:

4x6 with double diff locks. :icon-twisted:

Thing is virtually unstoppable. :icon-cool:

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I also got to fit some of the locks I've invented and made.

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OH..................did I mention I'm..........................

















Off To Tough Truck Tomorrow!!!


:banana-stoner::obscene-drinkingbu::music-rockout::banana-fingers::happy-cheerleaders::happy-wavemulticol::auto-biker::banana-tux::happy-bouncyblue::greetings-clapping::happy-jumpeveryone::banana-wrench::banana-guitar::happy-bouncycyan::banana-jumprope::happy-bouncygreen::happy-partydance::banana-linedance::happy-bouncymultic::banana-ninja::character-kermit::banana-angel::banana-blonde::banana-rainbow::happy-bouncyshadow::banana-dance::banana-dance::flags-australia:
 
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Enjoy Tough Truck! Sorry I couldn't get down but Delz is working and I'm about half an assignment behind, with one due Friday and another on Monday...

Oh I got the TJM Ox winch for $121 in the end so not bad for a brand new Tirfor type winch!
 
YYY
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