This week I had to make a winch bar for the front of a customers Grand Vitara.
I'd have loved to have made the main section out of one piece of 6mm plate bent into a big C section with the winch in the middle. But as that wasnt an option I had to make it using the materials we had, so I used 75mm x 50mm angle for the main winch tray.
I added a piece of 25mm angle to help support the sheet metal that I would be fitting on top later.
I cut the ends back on an angle.
It is mounted using 3 M14 bolts through the chassis, with crush tubes inside the chassis.
I welded in a piece of 6mm flat to fill in between the angle.
I added some checkered plate to the top.
I riveted the checkered plate on to the top of the winch bar with a bead of silicon underneath.
I had to fit a water tank underneath the tray of a customers ute.
This is the tank.
I had to make up some new brackets for it and get it bolted in place.
I made a bracket to mount the tap.
It had a long range tank fitted which was made by a company round the corner from us which I took great interest in as obviously I want to build one for LJ.
We got this Suzuki Sierra in last year after a young guy rolled it.
We decided it was just too good to strip for parts. The engine runs beautifully and the body had no rust on it. So the plan was to turn it into a farm car/pig shooting truck.
My boss wanted me to build some half doors for it. The idea was to have a small light weight door just to help keep people in and offer a bit of protection.
This is what I was given for inspiration.
I wasnt a fan of that design so decided to make it out of 20mm tube.
We were missing the correct size former for the tube and when I tried using the next size up it kept kinking the tube.
So I bought the correct former.
But it was still kinking the tube.
It didnt kink quite so bad with the correct former but it did still kink.
I found it would bend so far and then would suddenly pop and shoot out of the former and kink in the process.
So I decided to make a tool to keep it tight in the former.
So I cut 2 pieces of angle and then cut the one side of the angle down so it had a small return on it, and cut a piece of tube and then cut it down the center it to give me a small piece of half round tube.
I then cut a piece of 6mm to go on top to bridge the 2 pieces of angle.
And welded it all together.
It was a nice tight fit over the 20mm tube.
With the tube tight into the former I could then slide the tool into place.
And this time I was able to get much better bends than before, still a tiny kink but much more acceptable.
I added a hole to allow me to view the line marked on the center of the former versus the line marked on the tube.
I could then make some doors!
I made a cardboard template to give me the shape of the door so I used that to help me bend the tube to the right size and shape.
Marked where it needed cutting.
And cut it on the bandsaw.
I ground the 2 ends to create a V for me to fill with weld, so that when I grind the weld down after its still got some weld left, and clamped it in the vice ready for welding.
After making the first one using the cardboard template I made a more permanent one out of alluminium.
Next I started bending a piece of tube for the middle.
So one complete door with the 2 clamps weighs less than 3kg.
I needed to remove the hinges from the old doors.
I couldnt get one of the philips headed bolts out.
So I had to weld a bolt on.
Hinges on.
Followed by the door.

I made some more doors as my boss wanted 6 in total. 2 for this car, 2 for another project were working on and 2 for the show room.
The next thing to look at was the latch to keep it closed.
When the previous welder built the other doors he used the original latch.
But I didnt think it would look right.
So I decided to try and make something. I wanted a latch that would be very simple, light and easy to use.
Drilled some holes in a piece of flat.
Bent it.
Cut and bent a piece of stainless steel rod.
Drilled it (shit stainless is hard to drill!)
Found some roll pins and springs.
And put the bits together.
I think I'm on the right lines with it, but I'm going to see what our local engineering suppliers has first as they do sell lots of different weld on latches and locks so they may sell something that will work perfectly. If they dont I will tweak my design to make it a bit more aesthetically pleasing.
The next job was to build a roll cage for the car. The cage that is currently sat in it is a display one out of the show room. I need to build one the same and then add a front hoop around where the windscreen should be and then brace it back to the other hoop.
Fortunately the last welder left me a jig.
I cut and started bending tube.
I will finish that next week.
OK........................
Frankenzuke next.
The guy from the graphics company came in this week to apply the graphics hes designed for us.
So Frankenzuke is almost ready for the magazine photo shoot and filming for TV.
My TIG welding next.........................
I was back at TAFE today doing more practicing.
My butt welds are getting better.
And my fillet welds arnt too bad either.
So I then went on to welding in the over head position, sitting down.
And then the overhead standing up position, as this is what I will need to do on the test.
Not easy, in fact its bloody hard. I will explain why in a minute!
OK..........................
I thought I might explain TIG to those who dont have much/any knowledge of it.
(Apologies if you already know all this, but I'm sure some of you wont.)
Before starting this course I knew that TIG was a type of welding that is highly skilled and is often used for things like alluminium and stainless, but that was pretty much all I did know.
So this is the machine.
Which is hooked up to Argon shielding gas, which is an inert gas meaning its non reactive so it doesnt burn. It is there purely to shield the weld pool from the atmosphere which would contaminate it.
These are the Tungstan's that go in the welding torch and they strike the arc between the torch and the metal your trying to weld.
They need grinding to a point and they need re-grinding quite often, especially when your learning to weld. I will explain more in a minute.
OK so you have a foot pedal that controls the Amps (power coming out of the torch), you have the torch with the tungsten protruding slightly from the end, and you have the filler rod.
So in one hand you have the torch and have to slowly move along where your trying to weld, at the same time you have to feed in the filler rod and while doing that with both hands you have to use the foot pedal to control the amps.
Now the tip of the tungsten needs to be held just above the work, if it touches the work the end of the tungsten needs regrinding. The filler rod needs feeding into the weld pool created by the tungsten, but it cant touch the tungsten or else the tungsten needs regrinding again.
OK........................
Now try doing all that stood up basically on one leg as the other foot is doing the foot pedal and trying to weld above your head!
Not easy!
So for my overhead butt welds I first tacked 2 pieces of 3mm sheet steel together like this.
Then I tried welding them over head whilst stood on one leg.
So its not easy, in fact its bloody hard!
But I will keep practicing and hopefully I will get it and pass the test!
Tomorrow I'm off to do some more filming for 4WD TV in preparation for next weekend.
As next weekend I'm off to Tough Truck to film it!
