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LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
Update time. 
Normally I try and split it all up into sections but today I'm just going to do it all in order. Hopefully it wont be too disjointed or hard to follow!
Last weekend I did some more filling and sanding on LJ.
I removed the rubber trim from the passenger door to investigate the surface rust, this turned into a hole when I poked it.
It has also cracked on the inside seem where it was brazed in the factory.
I will take it to work and MIG weld it.
I removed the slam panel from the front of LJ in order to make removing the rad easier. But 3 of the 4 bolts sheared off on me.
So I drilled out the broken bolts.
Next I wanted to re-fit the rad and rad cowl, but first I wanted to alter the rad cowl slightly.
The cowl had been rubbing slightly on a bolt on the power steering pumper occasionally when off road.
You can see where it had rubbed the paint off.
I decided to hole saw it, so I positioned a hole saw in place and marked the center.
I trimmed the edges.
I then hung it up and gave it a coat of black spray paint.
Once it was dry I could refit it and the rad.
I want to replace the bottom rad hose, but I need to find one thats suitable. The top one is just a standard KZJ70 hose, but the standard KZJ70 bottom hose didnt fit properly.
I also want to carry spare hoses in LJ at all times, along with alternator belts and fuel and oil filters.
I refitted the top hose but not the bottom one as I wanted to try and source a new bottom one with a slightly differnet angle on the end.
I decided I should probably remove all the rubber grommets from the holes in the back door and fill them before the respray.
I needed to remove the table/storage box first.
Grommets removed.
I chose to use some glass fibre filler.
I decided the easiest way would be to put masking tape on the outside of the panel and this worked well.
Well that was last Sunday, so work pics next.
We had another Suzuki in for wrecking and as space is tight I said I'd get it stripped and put away in a day.
This is quite a rare Suzuki, sold as a Holden Drover and has a high top roof.
Sadly the rot was far too far gone for it to be salvageable so we had to strip it.
It had come from a property destroyed by bush fires. The house and other vehicles went but some how the little zuke survived relatively unscathed!
OK...........
I've stripped lots of 4x4's over the years and I believe this is the cleanest, safest and best way to do it!
Firstly remove all the doors, bonnet, grill, interior etc.
Then lift the body off the chassis.
And roll the chassis out from under it.
Dump the body outside for the scrap man.
Then all the dirty bits attached to the chassis like the engine, gear box, T box, axles and fuel tank can be jet washed until there spotlessly clean.
Slight interruption to the Suzuki stripping because I had a delivery!
A new steering column for LJ from my favorite wreckers yard! I really cant recommend them enough, always great prices, great service and super quick delivery!
OK back to the Suzuki stripping.
With everything now degreased, pressure washed and nice and clean I could pull the engine out. Now doing this with the body removed is both easy and safe as its all done from above!
I pulled the other bits off and then took the chassis out for scrap.
I stripped all the suspension off the axles next.
The tyres had loads of tread but all had been burnt.
All stripped and the scrap taken away in one day.
My next job was to get my bosses new ARB bull bar ready for fitting on his 80. The existing bar is a low mount one but now he wants to upgrade and fit a Warn 8274 High Mount as the low mount winches just arnt as good.
This is the old bar.
Which he had extra lights added to.
He wanted me to do the same to the new one.
So I made a template.
And got the new bar.
We will be fitting LED indicators instead of the stadard lights.
(Are these the ones you need for your bar Nelson? Let me know and I will bring them over for you if so.
)
The ARB badge needed removing.
I managed to save it but not sure what I will do with it yet.
I selected the right size hole saw.
I needed the cut out for the light to cover the recess in the bar from where the badge was.
I cleaned up the edges with the diegrinder.
Trim next.
Other side.
I had another delivery!
My rock sliders came back from the electro platers.
Back to the bar.
Parts for me to fit.
Lights and recover points.
And Warn 8274 Hgh Mount with a faster 6.5HP motor and Gigglepin drum with air free spool.
Drilled the holes for the lights.
Recovery points next.
I questioned why I was to mount them in that position as obviously its not very strong and my boss explained that there there for emergencies when the lower recovery points and winch are completely buried, these recovery points can be used with care, with a bridal between them.
Next I got the 80 on the hoist.
The auto rad is very well protected.
But the oil pan on the auto box and in particular the hose at the front of it were quite vunerable.
So I needed to make a gaurd.
I bent up some 40mm x 5mm flat.
And welded some bits on the ends.
The brake press does a great job at producing nice tight bends but I wanted to add some welds to beef them up a bit.
The suspension was at full droop so I knew the prop shaft would clear my bracket.
I got a sheat of 4mm checkered plate.
Sadly too thick for the guilitine.
So I cut it with the grinder.
Folded it in the brake press.
I wanted to fold the edges but couldnt in either of the folders.
So I used the vice and some muscle.
Next I needed to work out where and at what angle to weld the guard to the bracket I'd bolted to the chassis.
Done.
I put it in the back of the 60 and took it to be electroplated.
And picked up LJ's rock sliders from the powder coaters.
I had to prep the 70 for a trip my boss has gone on for 4WD TV.
Oil change.
Greased all the nipples.
Checked all the suspenison bushes and all the fluids under the bonnet.
I'm very sceptical about these electronic rust prevention systems.
This one has been fitted since the vehicle was brand new.
Yet you dont have to look hard to find surface rust!
I asked my boss where he got the bags from that we use for our latest recovery kits as I wanted one to put my tools in for tafe. He said I bought 2000, you can have one.
So I took it with me on Friday.
This is after the hot pass.
And this is after the next run, the first of the 2 capping runs.
After the 2 capping runs.
I machined more pipe.
Ready for tack welding.
The first 2 tack welds wernt good as there was far too much penetration.
The 3rd was ok though.
Tack welded the other 2 together.
This time the tacks were perfect.
So I put it on the jig and did my root pass.
And finally today (Saturday).
First job on LJ was to tap the captive nuts that I drilled the sheared bolts out of on the slam panel.
Shiny new bolts.
I picked up some longer M12 bolts as the ones I had brought home last week wernt quite long enough.
And got them fitted through the recovery points, steering guard, winch tray and chassis.
Got the winch electrics re-connected.
next job was the body lift spacers. In hindsight I wish I had never fitted a bodylift and I wont be fitting one on one of my vehicles again, I'd rather cut the body work to fit bigger tyres than fit another bodylift. Its too late to remove it now as everything has been made to fit it being body lifted.
Anyway...................
I wasnt happy about having alluminium spacers against the body as on the back they managed to punch through the body.
So I fitted a piece of rubber between each body spacer and body.
I needed to fix the front wing that was loose at the bottom.
Both of the bolts had sheared off.
So I drilled and tapped the captive nuts.
And fitted some new bolts.
I fitted the rock sliders next.
Other side.
With the sliders back on I could bolt the radius arms back on.
I jacked them up.
But the holes wernt lining up.
So I used a ratchet strap to pull the axle back.
New steering column next.
Toyota obviously stopped powder coating the top part of the steering column after 1993 as the new one was built in 1995 according to the sticker.
I removed the ignition barrel from my old steering column.
I then found I couldnt get it to fit the new column as it was damaged slightly.
So I removed and fitted the complete top section off my old one.
I fitted the bottom shaft piece and then got it fitted on LJ.
For the last hour I did some more filling and sanding.
Lots still to do but its getting there slowly.
Normally I try and split it all up into sections but today I'm just going to do it all in order. Hopefully it wont be too disjointed or hard to follow!
Last weekend I did some more filling and sanding on LJ.
I removed the rubber trim from the passenger door to investigate the surface rust, this turned into a hole when I poked it.
It has also cracked on the inside seem where it was brazed in the factory.
I will take it to work and MIG weld it.
I removed the slam panel from the front of LJ in order to make removing the rad easier. But 3 of the 4 bolts sheared off on me.
So I drilled out the broken bolts.
Next I wanted to re-fit the rad and rad cowl, but first I wanted to alter the rad cowl slightly.
The cowl had been rubbing slightly on a bolt on the power steering pumper occasionally when off road.
You can see where it had rubbed the paint off.
I decided to hole saw it, so I positioned a hole saw in place and marked the center.
I trimmed the edges.
I then hung it up and gave it a coat of black spray paint.
Once it was dry I could refit it and the rad.
I want to replace the bottom rad hose, but I need to find one thats suitable. The top one is just a standard KZJ70 hose, but the standard KZJ70 bottom hose didnt fit properly.
I also want to carry spare hoses in LJ at all times, along with alternator belts and fuel and oil filters.
I refitted the top hose but not the bottom one as I wanted to try and source a new bottom one with a slightly differnet angle on the end.
I decided I should probably remove all the rubber grommets from the holes in the back door and fill them before the respray.
I needed to remove the table/storage box first.
Grommets removed.
I chose to use some glass fibre filler.
I decided the easiest way would be to put masking tape on the outside of the panel and this worked well.
Well that was last Sunday, so work pics next.
We had another Suzuki in for wrecking and as space is tight I said I'd get it stripped and put away in a day.
This is quite a rare Suzuki, sold as a Holden Drover and has a high top roof.
Sadly the rot was far too far gone for it to be salvageable so we had to strip it.
It had come from a property destroyed by bush fires. The house and other vehicles went but some how the little zuke survived relatively unscathed!
OK...........
I've stripped lots of 4x4's over the years and I believe this is the cleanest, safest and best way to do it!
Firstly remove all the doors, bonnet, grill, interior etc.
Then lift the body off the chassis.
And roll the chassis out from under it.
Dump the body outside for the scrap man.
Then all the dirty bits attached to the chassis like the engine, gear box, T box, axles and fuel tank can be jet washed until there spotlessly clean.
Slight interruption to the Suzuki stripping because I had a delivery!
A new steering column for LJ from my favorite wreckers yard! I really cant recommend them enough, always great prices, great service and super quick delivery!
OK back to the Suzuki stripping.
With everything now degreased, pressure washed and nice and clean I could pull the engine out. Now doing this with the body removed is both easy and safe as its all done from above!
I pulled the other bits off and then took the chassis out for scrap.
I stripped all the suspension off the axles next.
The tyres had loads of tread but all had been burnt.
All stripped and the scrap taken away in one day.
My next job was to get my bosses new ARB bull bar ready for fitting on his 80. The existing bar is a low mount one but now he wants to upgrade and fit a Warn 8274 High Mount as the low mount winches just arnt as good.
This is the old bar.
Which he had extra lights added to.
He wanted me to do the same to the new one.
So I made a template.
And got the new bar.
We will be fitting LED indicators instead of the stadard lights.
(Are these the ones you need for your bar Nelson? Let me know and I will bring them over for you if so.
)
The ARB badge needed removing.
I managed to save it but not sure what I will do with it yet.
I selected the right size hole saw.
I needed the cut out for the light to cover the recess in the bar from where the badge was.
I cleaned up the edges with the diegrinder.
Trim next.
Other side.
I had another delivery!
My rock sliders came back from the electro platers.
Back to the bar.
Parts for me to fit.
Lights and recover points.
And Warn 8274 Hgh Mount with a faster 6.5HP motor and Gigglepin drum with air free spool.
Drilled the holes for the lights.
Recovery points next.
I questioned why I was to mount them in that position as obviously its not very strong and my boss explained that there there for emergencies when the lower recovery points and winch are completely buried, these recovery points can be used with care, with a bridal between them.
Next I got the 80 on the hoist.
The auto rad is very well protected.
But the oil pan on the auto box and in particular the hose at the front of it were quite vunerable.
So I needed to make a gaurd.
I bent up some 40mm x 5mm flat.
And welded some bits on the ends.
The brake press does a great job at producing nice tight bends but I wanted to add some welds to beef them up a bit.
The suspension was at full droop so I knew the prop shaft would clear my bracket.
I got a sheat of 4mm checkered plate.
Sadly too thick for the guilitine.
So I cut it with the grinder.
Folded it in the brake press.
I wanted to fold the edges but couldnt in either of the folders.
So I used the vice and some muscle.
Next I needed to work out where and at what angle to weld the guard to the bracket I'd bolted to the chassis.
Done.
I put it in the back of the 60 and took it to be electroplated.
And picked up LJ's rock sliders from the powder coaters.
I had to prep the 70 for a trip my boss has gone on for 4WD TV.
Oil change.
Greased all the nipples.
Checked all the suspenison bushes and all the fluids under the bonnet.
I'm very sceptical about these electronic rust prevention systems.
This one has been fitted since the vehicle was brand new.
Yet you dont have to look hard to find surface rust!
I asked my boss where he got the bags from that we use for our latest recovery kits as I wanted one to put my tools in for tafe. He said I bought 2000, you can have one.
So I took it with me on Friday.
This is after the hot pass.
And this is after the next run, the first of the 2 capping runs.
After the 2 capping runs.
I machined more pipe.
Ready for tack welding.
The first 2 tack welds wernt good as there was far too much penetration.
The 3rd was ok though.
Tack welded the other 2 together.
This time the tacks were perfect.
So I put it on the jig and did my root pass.
And finally today (Saturday).
First job on LJ was to tap the captive nuts that I drilled the sheared bolts out of on the slam panel.
Shiny new bolts.
I picked up some longer M12 bolts as the ones I had brought home last week wernt quite long enough.
And got them fitted through the recovery points, steering guard, winch tray and chassis.
Got the winch electrics re-connected.
next job was the body lift spacers. In hindsight I wish I had never fitted a bodylift and I wont be fitting one on one of my vehicles again, I'd rather cut the body work to fit bigger tyres than fit another bodylift. Its too late to remove it now as everything has been made to fit it being body lifted.
Anyway...................
I wasnt happy about having alluminium spacers against the body as on the back they managed to punch through the body.
So I fitted a piece of rubber between each body spacer and body.
I needed to fix the front wing that was loose at the bottom.
Both of the bolts had sheared off.
So I drilled and tapped the captive nuts.
And fitted some new bolts.
I fitted the rock sliders next.
Other side.
With the sliders back on I could bolt the radius arms back on.
I jacked them up.
But the holes wernt lining up.
So I used a ratchet strap to pull the axle back.
New steering column next.
Toyota obviously stopped powder coating the top part of the steering column after 1993 as the new one was built in 1995 according to the sticker.
I removed the ignition barrel from my old steering column.
I then found I couldnt get it to fit the new column as it was damaged slightly.
So I removed and fitted the complete top section off my old one.
I fitted the bottom shaft piece and then got it fitted on LJ.
For the last hour I did some more filling and sanding.
Lots still to do but its getting there slowly.
Are the body lift spacers smaller diameter than the OEM body mount? Bigger diameter spacers would spread the load better and be less likely to cause problems if so.
Wish I had easy access to electroplating and powder coating like you, looks like your sliders came up very nice
Wish I had easy access to electroplating and powder coating like you, looks like your sliders came up very nice
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
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- Country Flag
Slightly yes!
The ideal thing would have been to have used poly spacers like these:
http://www.bits4vits.co.uk/store/vitara-/-x90/body-lift-2-poly-vit/gv-/prod_56.html
Thanks, I am lucky to have such easy access and its cheap too.
The elctro plating was £40 and the powder coating £20!
The ideal thing would have been to have used poly spacers like these:
http://www.bits4vits.co.uk/store/vitara-/-x90/body-lift-2-poly-vit/gv-/prod_56.html
Thanks, I am lucky to have such easy access and its cheap too.
The elctro plating was £40 and the powder coating £20!
Makes a big difference to surface area and the pressure e.g. if you used a 50mm bar instead of 60mm which is only 5mm smaller radius and wouldn't look all that big a difference but the 60mm has approximately 44% larger surface area than the 50mm so that's a lot of extra load on the contact surface with the 50mm.
I would just paint some correct diameter aluminium spacers, can't be hard for you to get hold of some suitable diameter bar and chop it up into the lengths you need where you are now?
I'm just thinking about that big trip you're going to be doing and how much that's going to test your truck you lucky bugger!
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- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
Makes a big difference to surface area and the pressure e.g. if you used a 50mm bar instead of 60mm which is only 5mm smaller radius and wouldn't look all that big a difference but the 60mm has approximately 44% larger surface area than the 50mm so that's a lot of extra load on the contact surface with the 50mm.
I would just paint some correct diameter aluminium spacers, can't be hard for you to get hold of some suitable diameter bar and chop it up into the lengths you need where you are now?
I'm just thinking about that big trip you're going to be doing and how much that's going to test your truck you lucky bugger!
Thanks John.
Will see what solid alluminium bar I can find. I just thought the poly ones might be better as they would have some give in them rather than the hard alluminium, theya re also much wider than whats currently fitted.
You know if you spent less time standing around taking pictures, you might get some work done Ben
Are you absolutely sure there aren't 30 hours in an Australian day?
C
If I didnt go to TAFE I'd get so much more done!
With TAFE I have to work till 5 instead of 4, so loose an hour every day after work when I could be using the workshop, then I loose my Monday, and Wednesday evenings, then on Thursdays I could use the workshop till 9pm as their open late, but I have to work to make my hours back up.
Will be worth it in the long run but hard now. But......................
This Thursday night they dont need me to work!
So my plan is to get my roof rack built!
All the materials are there, just need to draw up my design and get some tube bent, notched and welded.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
Shit!!! I was sure you said 2016! 
Course the truck will be ready!
Just need to save up some dollars for a new set of BFG's, OZ Tent RV2, and an awning. The LED light bar I want to put on the bull bar might have to wait a while.
Course the truck will be ready!
Just need to save up some dollars for a new set of BFG's, OZ Tent RV2, and an awning. The LED light bar I want to put on the bull bar might have to wait a while.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
I've decided to paint the grill as its looking a bit tatty after 20 years on the front of LJ.
I also want to fill the holes where the headlight washer jets used to be.
And repair a little bit of damage.
I pressure washed it clean, removed the Turbo badge and hung it up to dry.
I also removed the trim from around the side lights as that will need painting at the same time.
I decided to give the rear bumper a clean with the pressure washer while it was out to hopefully get the last of the Lincomb sand out.
Its all out of the bumper now but the swing away arm has obviously still got a lot of sand in it.
I need to finish mounting the latch so I can then get the bar shot blast, electro plated and powder coated.
I really want to mount the latch like this, but I need to add a stop for it to clamp against, but this isnt easy with the latch in that position.
I picked up some pieces of black nylon plastic last week, the idea being that the swing away arm will push up onto a piece of this instead of the rubber thats currently fitted.
I never liked the rubber but at the time thats all I could find.
Something else I had decided I didn't like was all the stickers on the side windows.
So I got rid of them all.
I would really like some BJ70/RJ70 rear side windows where its just one piece of glass but so far I have been unable to source any.
To make LJ more stable and to improve approach and departure angles I want to try and stretch the wheel base.
So I started mocking up the brackets in cardboard.
These brackets will push the front axle 50mm forwards and down slightly to fix the castor and mean I can do away with the castor correction bushes.
The piece on the front will be clamped between the chassis and the rock slider.
This was the design I settled on in the end.
I still want to convert the rear to a 3 link as well as pushing the rear axle back 50mm also.
Heres some pics of how the guy on mud has 3 linked the rear of his LJ78.
So he welded another mount to the axle to mount the new 3rd link to.
And welded another chassis cross member in to attach the other end of this new 3rd link to.
While searching the web for suspension setups on LJ/KZJ70's I found a kit for sale to convert the front to a 3 link setup.
This is it:
http://www.acerni.it/en/veicoli/toy...oni-3-link-anteriore-adattabile-a-toyota.html
They also sell a kit to convert to hydro steer!
http://www.acerni.it/en/veicoli/toyota/lj-70/kit-sterzo-idraulico-toyota.html
Anyway back to the suspension...................
I found a few more pics that I found interesting.
4 link.
Back to LJ for a moment....................
One issue that I've always struggled with is the pin mounts on the bottom of the shocks have always worn the hole out on the axle. I did weld thick washers over the elongated holes once and thought that would fix it, which it did for a while but now the shocks have worn the holes bigger again and the shocks are now loose on there bottom mounts.
So I plan to do away with these bottom mounts altogether and make some new ones like I made for Frankenzuke, where they bolt through instead of a pin, and make swivel mounts so the bottom shock mounts can pivot both ways to allow for lots of articulation.
I'm going to bring a load of shocks home to play with and work out how best to do it. I want as much articulation and suspension travel as possible so I want to fit really long shocks!
I'm also thinking the front shocks will no longer be mounted inside the front springs and will instead mount behind them.
Thoughts and opinions invited as always.
I also want to fill the holes where the headlight washer jets used to be.
And repair a little bit of damage.
I pressure washed it clean, removed the Turbo badge and hung it up to dry.
I also removed the trim from around the side lights as that will need painting at the same time.
I decided to give the rear bumper a clean with the pressure washer while it was out to hopefully get the last of the Lincomb sand out.
Its all out of the bumper now but the swing away arm has obviously still got a lot of sand in it.
I need to finish mounting the latch so I can then get the bar shot blast, electro plated and powder coated.
I really want to mount the latch like this, but I need to add a stop for it to clamp against, but this isnt easy with the latch in that position.
I picked up some pieces of black nylon plastic last week, the idea being that the swing away arm will push up onto a piece of this instead of the rubber thats currently fitted.
I never liked the rubber but at the time thats all I could find.
Something else I had decided I didn't like was all the stickers on the side windows.
So I got rid of them all.
I would really like some BJ70/RJ70 rear side windows where its just one piece of glass but so far I have been unable to source any.
To make LJ more stable and to improve approach and departure angles I want to try and stretch the wheel base.
So I started mocking up the brackets in cardboard.
These brackets will push the front axle 50mm forwards and down slightly to fix the castor and mean I can do away with the castor correction bushes.
The piece on the front will be clamped between the chassis and the rock slider.
This was the design I settled on in the end.
I still want to convert the rear to a 3 link as well as pushing the rear axle back 50mm also.
Heres some pics of how the guy on mud has 3 linked the rear of his LJ78.
So he welded another mount to the axle to mount the new 3rd link to.
And welded another chassis cross member in to attach the other end of this new 3rd link to.
While searching the web for suspension setups on LJ/KZJ70's I found a kit for sale to convert the front to a 3 link setup.
This is it:
http://www.acerni.it/en/veicoli/toy...oni-3-link-anteriore-adattabile-a-toyota.html
They also sell a kit to convert to hydro steer!
http://www.acerni.it/en/veicoli/toyota/lj-70/kit-sterzo-idraulico-toyota.html
Anyway back to the suspension...................
I found a few more pics that I found interesting.
4 link.
Back to LJ for a moment....................
One issue that I've always struggled with is the pin mounts on the bottom of the shocks have always worn the hole out on the axle. I did weld thick washers over the elongated holes once and thought that would fix it, which it did for a while but now the shocks have worn the holes bigger again and the shocks are now loose on there bottom mounts.
So I plan to do away with these bottom mounts altogether and make some new ones like I made for Frankenzuke, where they bolt through instead of a pin, and make swivel mounts so the bottom shock mounts can pivot both ways to allow for lots of articulation.
I'm going to bring a load of shocks home to play with and work out how best to do it. I want as much articulation and suspension travel as possible so I want to fit really long shocks!
I'm also thinking the front shocks will no longer be mounted inside the front springs and will instead mount behind them.
Thoughts and opinions invited as always.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
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- Country Flag
Almost forgot.
This is the Aussie made awning I'm thinking of getting for above the rear doors.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUPA-PEG...9998?pt=AU_Tents&hash=item338b8a9fce#shpCntId
I will mount it on the roof rack I'm going to build this week.
This is the Aussie made awning I'm thinking of getting for above the rear doors.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUPA-PEG...9998?pt=AU_Tents&hash=item338b8a9fce#shpCntId
I will mount it on the roof rack I'm going to build this week.
Paddler Ed
Well-Known Member
Doors:
The 3 Land Cruisers I used to work with all had those same welds go; they had about 275,000km - 480,000km on the clock, and the oldest was 1986 build.
Windows:
You're looking for BJ/FJ70 windows rather than RJ/LJ70 windows.
Holden Drover: We've got a couple up around this way, as well as a couple of Zook Stockman's which always look tidy. There's also a really old Zook ute like the one that you put up early on when you were with the current guys.
The 3 Land Cruisers I used to work with all had those same welds go; they had about 275,000km - 480,000km on the clock, and the oldest was 1986 build.
Windows:
You're looking for BJ/FJ70 windows rather than RJ/LJ70 windows.
Holden Drover: We've got a couple up around this way, as well as a couple of Zook Stockman's which always look tidy. There's also a really old Zook ute like the one that you put up early on when you were with the current guys.
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Thing is though Ed, I've seen LJ, FJ, RJ and BJ 70's with those windows and I've also seen all of those with split windows so I don't think we can rule out one model over another as being a source!
For example heres an LJ with the rear windows I want:
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/donc...andcruiser-factory-turbo-diesel-lx/1046466380
Paddler Ed
Well-Known Member
I wonder if it's a trim level then that makes the difference? I know for example that I've seen a high spec LX with the sliding back windows, whilst the more poverty spec ones might have fixed windows...
One day we'll understand the Toyota trim levels... it's like I've got a 4Runner Olympic Spirit V6, but according to Redbook this was better spec'd than the RV6 but cheaper as a special edition (makes the FX/GX debate the 90 series guys are having looks simple...)
One day we'll understand the Toyota trim levels... it's like I've got a 4Runner Olympic Spirit V6, but according to Redbook this was better spec'd than the RV6 but cheaper as a special edition (makes the FX/GX debate the 90 series guys are having looks simple...)
Hey Ben, love the look of those 3/4 link systems! How much further forward are the radius arms mounted? They look way longer than the stock arms. Have you decided how much further back you intend the rear axle to be mounted?
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A cheap solution for 3 link in the rear is just to chop the radius arms off so that you end up with only the hole furthest to the front, and then add a 3rd rod on the diff housing, that way it is only a 3rd of the job
That is an excellent idea.
I had planned on cutting the furthest hole off to create my bottom links like hairyguy4 has done on his, but by using that furthest rear ward hole instead it will stretch the wheel base without me having to alter the chassis mount.
Just hope that wouldnt push the axle too far back.
Hey Ben, love the look of those 3/4 link systems! How much further forward are the radius arms mounted? They look way longer than the stock arms. Have you decided how much further back you intend the rear axle to be mounted?
Thanks Clive.
I'm not sure, its difficult to visualize it without any pics of that kit fitted to a vehicle, so I'm not sure if their longer or not.
My plan is to push my front axle 50mm forwards and my rear axle 50mm back, meaning the wheel base will be 100mm longer!
Now I may find its not possible to go that much without altering panhard rod's etc. This is very experimental but I do believe it will work and I think stretching the wheel base 100mm would make LJ so much more stable off road.
Thanks Clive.
I'm not sure, its difficult to visualize it without any pics of that kit fitted to a vehicle, so I'm not sure if their longer or not.
My plan is to push my front axle 50mm forwards and my rear axle 50mm back, meaning the wheel base will be 100mm longer!
Now I may find its not possible to go that much without altering panhard rod's etc. This is very experimental but I do believe it will work and I think stretching the wheel base 100mm would make LJ so much more stable off road.
I would have thought the panhards would be the least of your worries. For 50mm, surely they could be cranked backwards or forwards without too much hassle? It's a bit like ARBs being shaped over the prop and the like.
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This week is going really well on the LJ front!
Wont have time for a proper update till the weekend but quite a few things have come together and its looking good.
The brackets are on to drop and push the front radius arms forwards 50mm and its looking like it will work well! Still need to take them off and give them a final weld before I get them electro plated but they fit and work beautifully!
The springs and shocks seem fine considering the axle has moved 50mm forwards, but the panhard rod is hitting the pumpkin on the axle so I want to make a bracket to go on the chassis end to move it 50mm forwards.
I'm trying to keep it all bolt on so I can always take it off and put it back to standard if need be when I come to register it in a different state.
With the front axle 50mm further forward the approach angle looks awesome! The tyres are so close to the front of the vehicle now, cant wait to get the back done aswell.
Wont have time for a proper update till the weekend but quite a few things have come together and its looking good.
The brackets are on to drop and push the front radius arms forwards 50mm and its looking like it will work well! Still need to take them off and give them a final weld before I get them electro plated but they fit and work beautifully!
The springs and shocks seem fine considering the axle has moved 50mm forwards, but the panhard rod is hitting the pumpkin on the axle so I want to make a bracket to go on the chassis end to move it 50mm forwards.
I'm trying to keep it all bolt on so I can always take it off and put it back to standard if need be when I come to register it in a different state.
With the front axle 50mm further forward the approach angle looks awesome! The tyres are so close to the front of the vehicle now, cant wait to get the back done aswell.
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stumog
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hi ben
in this picture
it looks like it has a charge cooler fitted to the engine. any more info or pictures you could take of the rad and water pump and how the cooler is mounted?
having a thought of a charge cooler rather then a intercooler on mine as i dont like how the pipe work is on a intercooler set up.
cheers stu
in this picture
it looks like it has a charge cooler fitted to the engine. any more info or pictures you could take of the rad and water pump and how the cooler is mounted?
having a thought of a charge cooler rather then a intercooler on mine as i dont like how the pipe work is on a intercooler set up.
cheers stu
