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LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
- Start date
Brilliant Ben, love it all!
What are you considering for the chassis internals? I oil mine from time to time with a squib oil can, clean oil of course, it's simple and I can't think of anything better. It creeps around in its own time and reaches those parts otherwise filled with damp mud and rusting away from the inside. I keep all the airways free to aid ventilation.
Do you have a better plan?
What are you considering for the chassis internals? I oil mine from time to time with a squib oil can, clean oil of course, it's simple and I can't think of anything better. It creeps around in its own time and reaches those parts otherwise filled with damp mud and rusting away from the inside. I keep all the airways free to aid ventilation.
Do you have a better plan?
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Thanks guys. 
Thanks mate.
The climate up here is just perfect all year round!
Where as Melbourne is too cold for 6+ months of the year and then far too hot for 2-3 months over summer.
But for me the main 3 positives with going back are:
1. I get my dream job back at Piranha Off Road!
2. Both of my LC's can be on club/historic registration meaning they will cost me a few hundred dollars per year to have on the road, versus $1600+ up here.
3. All of the amazing places to go 4wding and camping right on our door step and all virtually free to use!
For Bec she will have all here old friends back down there, as well as some family.
She can go back to her old work, which she much preferred to up here.
And she will be much closer to Tassie where most of her family are, meaning trips back will be much easier and cheaper for her.
Thanks mate.
Thanks mate, I'm really pleased with it.
I'd definitely recommend that Raptor paint for your trailer! Its a really good, tough coating but is so easy and simple to apply.
Just make sure you wear a mask and ideally a full disposable suit as there is a bit of over spray with the schutz guns.
Thanks mate.
Thanks mate.
True story.............
I put loads of oil inside all the chassis and body cavities on LJ 6 or 7 years ago.
All was well until I rolled it and then I had oil running out everywhere, dirty black used engine oil!
I've actually got half a dozen cans of Dinitrol cavity wax left over from years ago. Its basically like an oil, just very watery in consistency.
Its in schutz cans and came with a long hose with what looks like a nail poked in the end. Its so you can feed it into areas like the chassis and body cavities and its meant to spray and cover all surfaces.
So my plan is once the chassis goes back outside I'm going to empty a few cans into the chassis and try and cover every internal area.
Then it can sit and drip dry for a few weeks until the body goes back on.
When I was pressure washing the chassis I removed all the plastic bungs and spent over and hour pressure washing out all the chassis rails and cavities and I think I finally got the last of the Lincomb sand out.
Thanks mate.
I'm hoping they will. Thinking I might try and TIG a lot of it, just so I get 100% fusion, but also so I wont have any welds to grind down afterwards, especially on the floor pan where I want the new sections to blend seamlessly into the original panel.
I cant even remember the last time it rained, it must be at least 2-3 months and even then it was only for a few hours on one day.
The climate up here truly is perfection! 25 is the average winter temp, 28 in summer and over 300 days of sunshine and clear blue skys per year!
Thanks mate.
The climate up here is just perfect all year round!
Where as Melbourne is too cold for 6+ months of the year and then far too hot for 2-3 months over summer.
But for me the main 3 positives with going back are:
1. I get my dream job back at Piranha Off Road!
2. Both of my LC's can be on club/historic registration meaning they will cost me a few hundred dollars per year to have on the road, versus $1600+ up here.
3. All of the amazing places to go 4wding and camping right on our door step and all virtually free to use!
For Bec she will have all here old friends back down there, as well as some family.
She can go back to her old work, which she much preferred to up here.
And she will be much closer to Tassie where most of her family are, meaning trips back will be much easier and cheaper for her.
Great work as usual Ben.
Thanks mate.
Thanks mate, I'm really pleased with it.
I'd definitely recommend that Raptor paint for your trailer! Its a really good, tough coating but is so easy and simple to apply.
Just make sure you wear a mask and ideally a full disposable suit as there is a bit of over spray with the schutz guns.
I hate you and your ability making this work !!!!
Really nice work, the chassis support is incredible
Thanks mate.
Thanks mate.
True story.............
I put loads of oil inside all the chassis and body cavities on LJ 6 or 7 years ago.
All was well until I rolled it and then I had oil running out everywhere, dirty black used engine oil!
I've actually got half a dozen cans of Dinitrol cavity wax left over from years ago. Its basically like an oil, just very watery in consistency.
Its in schutz cans and came with a long hose with what looks like a nail poked in the end. Its so you can feed it into areas like the chassis and body cavities and its meant to spray and cover all surfaces.
So my plan is once the chassis goes back outside I'm going to empty a few cans into the chassis and try and cover every internal area.
Then it can sit and drip dry for a few weeks until the body goes back on.
When I was pressure washing the chassis I removed all the plastic bungs and spent over and hour pressure washing out all the chassis rails and cavities and I think I finally got the last of the Lincomb sand out.
Looking good and coming together nicely
One thing though, weather like a British summer?! Doesn't show any rain so can't be
Thanks mate.
I'm hoping they will. Thinking I might try and TIG a lot of it, just so I get 100% fusion, but also so I wont have any welds to grind down afterwards, especially on the floor pan where I want the new sections to blend seamlessly into the original panel.
I cant even remember the last time it rained, it must be at least 2-3 months and even then it was only for a few hours on one day.
The climate up here truly is perfection! 25 is the average winter temp, 28 in summer and over 300 days of sunshine and clear blue skys per year!
Paddler Ed
Well-Known Member
Both of my LC's can be on club/historic registration meaning they will cost me a few hundred dollars per year to have on the road, versus $1600+ up here.
3. All of the amazing places to go 4wding and camping right on our door step and all virtually free to use!
For Bec she will have all here old friends back down there, as well as some family
What's the age limit on historic rego in Vic? NSW is 30 years because I was looking at it for the 1991 XT600 that doesn't get used very often. I know a couple of people who have it on their bikes that they use for charity rides, but ours isn't quite old enough yet.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained is sometimes the best way of trying things. We certainly do that a bit...
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25 years.
So the 78 will be able to go straight on it and so will LJ next year.
Its probably going to be a little while until LJ is back on the road anyway as once I get back to Melbourne I will need to build a mandrel bent, stainless steel exhaust for it, buy an aftermarket ECU and get it certified by an engineer for the engine conversion and maybe the rear brake conversion and 35" tyres.
I've decided LJ is going to be my rock crawling vehicle and the 78 obviously my touring/overland vehicle. So the Warn 8274 winch will go back on LJ and I will design and build a tough front bar for it.
I'd love an American style stinger bar, but obviously as that wouldnt be road legal in that setup I'm thinking about whether it could be made with a pivot so it can be kept vertical when on the road, then when venturing off road I pull a pin out and angle it forwards.
I will also design and build a roll cage out of chromoly.
Long term I'd like to fit low ratio transfercase gears and look at modifiying the suspension with a 4 or 5 link front and rear for maximum articulation and stability.
So the 78 will be able to go straight on it and so will LJ next year.
Its probably going to be a little while until LJ is back on the road anyway as once I get back to Melbourne I will need to build a mandrel bent, stainless steel exhaust for it, buy an aftermarket ECU and get it certified by an engineer for the engine conversion and maybe the rear brake conversion and 35" tyres.
I've decided LJ is going to be my rock crawling vehicle and the 78 obviously my touring/overland vehicle. So the Warn 8274 winch will go back on LJ and I will design and build a tough front bar for it.
I'd love an American style stinger bar, but obviously as that wouldnt be road legal in that setup I'm thinking about whether it could be made with a pivot so it can be kept vertical when on the road, then when venturing off road I pull a pin out and angle it forwards.
I will also design and build a roll cage out of chromoly.
Long term I'd like to fit low ratio transfercase gears and look at modifiying the suspension with a 4 or 5 link front and rear for maximum articulation and stability.
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Little update seen as I've got no jobs on today.........
I fitted the prop shafts and brake pipes.
I'm not sure LJ's original brake bias valve has ever worked properly since I've had the car, 20 years of salted British roads had made it pretty crusty.
But I got a replacement from a KZJ78 I stripped for parts a few months ago.
I'm confident this one will work well.
Then yesterday evening LJ's chassis got pushed back outside.
Still a few more bits to bolt to the chassis, but its mostly together.
The engine and transmission got wrapped in a tarp to keep the weather out.
The trailer full of scrap and donor body has been moved under the gazebo ready for me to start cutting bits off it.
And the rotisserie has been pushed back into the garage ready for the body work.
I managed to clean some of the bitumen paint off the underside with my little pressure washer, but its a shame I'm not back at Piranha yet as their big diesel steam pressure washer would have likely taken all the bitumen off very easily.
I need to clean all the black off to get it back to the original red paint and I can then assess which bits need rust repairs before I paint the whole lot in the Raptor paint.
I've been using a scraper mainly and it comes off reasonably easily, its just time consuming.
After a few hours scraping I had done about a third to half of the underside of the floor pan.
Quite messy work.
But the floor pan is looking much better.
Apart from the few areas of rot the rest of it isnt too bad.
The drivers foot well has some holes where its rotted out.
But the passenger side is worse.
I even found a couple of tiny rot holes at the back of the floor pan next to the sill.
Any areas that have rot will be getting sand blasted so I can see the full extent of the damage and then I will decided how much metal to cut out.
I will also blast any areas of surface rust to make sure I get rid of it all, but I didnt want to just blast the whole floor pan, preferring instead to leave the original Toyota paint if its not rusty and going over the top of that once its been sanded down.
I discovered something I didnt know about 70's today, despite messing around with them for the last 8+ years.
There are little removable access flaps to get to the very rear body mount bolts.
In the past I've struggled with a socket or modified spanner through the bung hole above as I didnt realise these access holes existed.
My plan is to keep going cleaning the underside of the floor pan.
Then get it outside for one final degrease and pressure wash.
Then get it back in for sand blasting and cutting the rot out.
Then cut and weld all the new metal in.
Then paint both sides of the floor pan in the Raptor paint.
Then remove the body from the rotisserie and paint the body with it on my big axle stands.
Then fit the cab back onto the chassis.
Then start phase 2 of the body work which is repairing and painting all the removable body panels such as doors, guards, arches, windscreen surround, bonnet etc.
Then once all their done and bolted on I can refit the wiring loom, dash, seats etc.
8 weeks and counting!
I fitted the prop shafts and brake pipes.
I'm not sure LJ's original brake bias valve has ever worked properly since I've had the car, 20 years of salted British roads had made it pretty crusty.
But I got a replacement from a KZJ78 I stripped for parts a few months ago.
I'm confident this one will work well.
Then yesterday evening LJ's chassis got pushed back outside.
Still a few more bits to bolt to the chassis, but its mostly together.
The engine and transmission got wrapped in a tarp to keep the weather out.
The trailer full of scrap and donor body has been moved under the gazebo ready for me to start cutting bits off it.
And the rotisserie has been pushed back into the garage ready for the body work.
I managed to clean some of the bitumen paint off the underside with my little pressure washer, but its a shame I'm not back at Piranha yet as their big diesel steam pressure washer would have likely taken all the bitumen off very easily.
I need to clean all the black off to get it back to the original red paint and I can then assess which bits need rust repairs before I paint the whole lot in the Raptor paint.
I've been using a scraper mainly and it comes off reasonably easily, its just time consuming.
After a few hours scraping I had done about a third to half of the underside of the floor pan.
Quite messy work.
But the floor pan is looking much better.
Apart from the few areas of rot the rest of it isnt too bad.
The drivers foot well has some holes where its rotted out.
But the passenger side is worse.
I even found a couple of tiny rot holes at the back of the floor pan next to the sill.
Any areas that have rot will be getting sand blasted so I can see the full extent of the damage and then I will decided how much metal to cut out.
I will also blast any areas of surface rust to make sure I get rid of it all, but I didnt want to just blast the whole floor pan, preferring instead to leave the original Toyota paint if its not rusty and going over the top of that once its been sanded down.
I discovered something I didnt know about 70's today, despite messing around with them for the last 8+ years.
There are little removable access flaps to get to the very rear body mount bolts.
In the past I've struggled with a socket or modified spanner through the bung hole above as I didnt realise these access holes existed.
My plan is to keep going cleaning the underside of the floor pan.
Then get it outside for one final degrease and pressure wash.
Then get it back in for sand blasting and cutting the rot out.
Then cut and weld all the new metal in.
Then paint both sides of the floor pan in the Raptor paint.
Then remove the body from the rotisserie and paint the body with it on my big axle stands.
Then fit the cab back onto the chassis.
Then start phase 2 of the body work which is repairing and painting all the removable body panels such as doors, guards, arches, windscreen surround, bonnet etc.
Then once all their done and bolted on I can refit the wiring loom, dash, seats etc.
8 weeks and counting!
Paddler Ed
Well-Known Member
25 years.
So the 78 will be able to go straight on it and so will LJ next year.
Its probably going to be a little while until LJ is back on the road anyway as once I get back to Melbourne I will need to build a mandrel bent, stainless steel exhaust for it, buy an aftermarket ECU and get it certified by an engineer for the engine conversion and maybe the rear brake conversion and 35" tyres.
I've decided LJ is going to be my rock crawling vehicle and the 78 obviously my touring/overland vehicle. So the Warn 8274 winch will go back on LJ and I will design and build a tough front bar for it.
I'd love an American style stinger bar, but obviously as that wouldnt be road legal in that setup I'm thinking about whether it could be made with a pivot so it can be kept vertical when on the road, then when venturing off road I pull a pin out and angle it forwards.
I will also design and build a roll cage out of chromoly.
Long term I'd like to fit low ratio transfercase gears and look at modifiying the suspension with a 4 or 5 link front and rear for maximum articulation and stability.
NSW (as always) has the most pain in the arse system... You couldn't register LJ on the Historic plates, and even the 78 would be marginal, as there are modifications away from stock. At least in VIC you can get an M plate instead of H plates for them...
Which aftermarket ECU are you looking at?
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They will almost certainly be on historic plates, not modified. All of my bosses are on historic, even his comp truck.
Not sure which ECU yet, will ask the other guys who have the 1UZ and see what they recommend, theres so many options out there.
Not sure which ECU yet, will ask the other guys who have the 1UZ and see what they recommend, theres so many options out there.
Paddler Ed
Well-Known Member
M plates are a bit of a new idea it looks like, so they might not have them. I don't know much about the Historic plate scheme in VIC, apart from the M plates as I know someone who has a Volvo Amazon that's going to end up on M plates.
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I think its a great thing, historic/club reg.
Take LJ for example, for the past 5 years+ it has only been a weekend toy and certainly in the last few years I might go a week or 2 without driving it, so its crazy to have to pay full yearly registration on something that doesnt get driven very much at all.
I'm using the 78 as my daily drive for now, but I cant wait to get that on club reg with LJ when were back in Vic, its going to save me a fortune and should reduce my car insurance premium quite a bit.
Take LJ for example, for the past 5 years+ it has only been a weekend toy and certainly in the last few years I might go a week or 2 without driving it, so its crazy to have to pay full yearly registration on something that doesnt get driven very much at all.
I'm using the 78 as my daily drive for now, but I cant wait to get that on club reg with LJ when were back in Vic, its going to save me a fortune and should reduce my car insurance premium quite a bit.
doyle61
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We have the same problem here in Ireland Ben. When the car is 20 you get classic insurance and when it's 30 you get classic tax. The insurance should work out around €150-200 per year and the tax is €56. The normal tax on a 2.5 its roughly €1200 per year so that's some saving and the normal insurance is out of control atm here
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OK, update time....
I scraped lots of black paint off the underside of the floor pan.
I found a wire wheel in the drill worked well at removing any stubborn bits of underseal and paint, it also keyed the surface nicely ready for a coat of Raptor.
I flipped the body back round and started scraping all the bitumen sound deadening off the top of the floor pan.
I also started digging all the filler out of the section below the windscreen.
Sadly the previous previous owner who resprayed it Zion blue, filled all the rust holes with newspaper and then applied filler over the top.
Meaning there was a lot more rot than I was expecting.
I also found a hole in the bulkhead that had also had the newspaper and filler treatment.
The bottom of the rear quarter panel had some bubbling paint which turned into a hole when poked.
And the back of the passenger side sill.
I picked up some garnet for the sand blaster.
And got setup to blast the worst areas of rot.
This area first.
Followed by this bit.
At this point I became a bit frustrated and overwhelmed by how bad the body is and how much work is ahead.
So I had a week off from it and built a roof console for my 78.
During this week I tried sourcing another soft top body as I was worried this one was too far gone, particularly the bulkhead and below the windscreen.
I'd never liked the bulkhead anyway as a previous owner had attacked it with a hammer in order to do an engine conversion.
But I'd been unable to source one so I decided I would replace the entire bulkhead with a donor one, but not from a rare soft top body, but from a 75 series which I hope are the same (the folding windscreens certainly are).
A few phone calls later and I had found a few, one local to me and one in Brisbane. I went to my local place first and sadly like a lot of businesses on the Gold Coast, they were over priced and rude.
Where as the Brisbane place couldnt be more helpful.
They sent me some pics of the HJ75 body.
A bit of a sort out in the garden was needed to free up the trailer and the red RJ70 body cut had to be put on top of LJ's chassis.
And then it was off to Brisbane to collect the body!
The scrapyard had pulled all the bits off they wanted and gave me what was left, for $300.
I cant recommend these guys enough!
An hour later and I had fully stripped it and harvested a load of decent parts to sell on.
I've already sold the wiring loom and relays for $150, so I'm confident I will make my money back and maybe a little profit.
So now I had the bare body.
[/URL
The only bits of rust I could find were this area on the drivers floor pan.
This bit where the brace behind the dash bolts on.
And a little bit on the A pillar.
I then got it in the back garden to pressure wash it and compare floor pan to the RJ70 one.
With the rubber below where the windscreen sits removed, I could see just what condition that area was in.
Sadly there was a little spot of rot on the drivers side.
But only minor thankfully.
From the cab side its not very bad at all, so that section will just need cutting out and a new piece of steel welding in.
One thing I spotted that I found interesting was what I presume are drain holes were both covered with silver stickers.
Comparing the 2 floor pans, they look almost identical up to the seats.
I added some extra bracing to the soft top body ready to start cutting it.
My original plan was to unpick my bulkhead and replace it with bits from the new bulkhead, but I knew it would be difficult to get in and paint and seal everything perfectly on the joins and seen as my floor pan is also so rotten, I've decided to cut the body in half, along the floor pan roughly along where the red line is in the pic below.
From there I will remove the floor pan where it mounts to the sill, all the way down to the A pillar.
And remove the bottom of the A pillar from the sill and remove the bulkhead, rotten floor pan and A pillars all as one big section.
I picked up some spot weld drill bits.
And started drilling all the spot welds out.
After drilling all the spot welds out it was time to take the body off the rotisserie.
I got my big chassis stands back under the body and unbolted the rotisserie.
I started prising all the seams apart where I have drilled all the spot welds out.
The next step is to support the bulkhead and front half of the floor pan with the engine crane and cut the floor pan in half with the angle grinder and then swing it out of the way.
Then the rear half of the body will get bolted to LJ's chassis, the cut down HJ75 bulkhead and floor pan will get craned into place and also bolted down to the chassis, then I will bolt the doors on and make sure everything lines up and is going to work, before I start welding it all back together.
Then it will go back on the rotisserie to cut out and repair the other sections of rot in the body.
In other news, the Astra sold after a few weeks of advertising on Gumtree.
I got out the other day for a blast on the motorbike.
And Bec is now 33 weeks gone and doing great!
A little bit of history........
I had read in the owners manual that every soft top 70 when it was sold new, had a bag in the glove box with all the rubber covers in which cover the tops of the doors when the windows and frames are removed.
Sadly most of these have long since been lost and I had never even seen one until recently, when some one mentioned on the Bundera Facebook page that they had one, so I asked for some pics.
I scraped lots of black paint off the underside of the floor pan.
I found a wire wheel in the drill worked well at removing any stubborn bits of underseal and paint, it also keyed the surface nicely ready for a coat of Raptor.
I flipped the body back round and started scraping all the bitumen sound deadening off the top of the floor pan.
I also started digging all the filler out of the section below the windscreen.
Sadly the previous previous owner who resprayed it Zion blue, filled all the rust holes with newspaper and then applied filler over the top.
Meaning there was a lot more rot than I was expecting.
I also found a hole in the bulkhead that had also had the newspaper and filler treatment.
The bottom of the rear quarter panel had some bubbling paint which turned into a hole when poked.
And the back of the passenger side sill.
I picked up some garnet for the sand blaster.
And got setup to blast the worst areas of rot.
This area first.
Followed by this bit.
At this point I became a bit frustrated and overwhelmed by how bad the body is and how much work is ahead.
So I had a week off from it and built a roof console for my 78.
During this week I tried sourcing another soft top body as I was worried this one was too far gone, particularly the bulkhead and below the windscreen.
I'd never liked the bulkhead anyway as a previous owner had attacked it with a hammer in order to do an engine conversion.
But I'd been unable to source one so I decided I would replace the entire bulkhead with a donor one, but not from a rare soft top body, but from a 75 series which I hope are the same (the folding windscreens certainly are).
A few phone calls later and I had found a few, one local to me and one in Brisbane. I went to my local place first and sadly like a lot of businesses on the Gold Coast, they were over priced and rude.
Where as the Brisbane place couldnt be more helpful.
They sent me some pics of the HJ75 body.
A bit of a sort out in the garden was needed to free up the trailer and the red RJ70 body cut had to be put on top of LJ's chassis.
And then it was off to Brisbane to collect the body!
The scrapyard had pulled all the bits off they wanted and gave me what was left, for $300.
I cant recommend these guys enough!
An hour later and I had fully stripped it and harvested a load of decent parts to sell on.
I've already sold the wiring loom and relays for $150, so I'm confident I will make my money back and maybe a little profit.
So now I had the bare body.
[/URLThe only bits of rust I could find were this area on the drivers floor pan.
This bit where the brace behind the dash bolts on.
And a little bit on the A pillar.
I then got it in the back garden to pressure wash it and compare floor pan to the RJ70 one.
With the rubber below where the windscreen sits removed, I could see just what condition that area was in.
Sadly there was a little spot of rot on the drivers side.
But only minor thankfully.
From the cab side its not very bad at all, so that section will just need cutting out and a new piece of steel welding in.
One thing I spotted that I found interesting was what I presume are drain holes were both covered with silver stickers.
Comparing the 2 floor pans, they look almost identical up to the seats.
I added some extra bracing to the soft top body ready to start cutting it.
My original plan was to unpick my bulkhead and replace it with bits from the new bulkhead, but I knew it would be difficult to get in and paint and seal everything perfectly on the joins and seen as my floor pan is also so rotten, I've decided to cut the body in half, along the floor pan roughly along where the red line is in the pic below.
From there I will remove the floor pan where it mounts to the sill, all the way down to the A pillar.
And remove the bottom of the A pillar from the sill and remove the bulkhead, rotten floor pan and A pillars all as one big section.
I picked up some spot weld drill bits.
And started drilling all the spot welds out.
After drilling all the spot welds out it was time to take the body off the rotisserie.
I got my big chassis stands back under the body and unbolted the rotisserie.
I started prising all the seams apart where I have drilled all the spot welds out.
The next step is to support the bulkhead and front half of the floor pan with the engine crane and cut the floor pan in half with the angle grinder and then swing it out of the way.
Then the rear half of the body will get bolted to LJ's chassis, the cut down HJ75 bulkhead and floor pan will get craned into place and also bolted down to the chassis, then I will bolt the doors on and make sure everything lines up and is going to work, before I start welding it all back together.
Then it will go back on the rotisserie to cut out and repair the other sections of rot in the body.
In other news, the Astra sold after a few weeks of advertising on Gumtree.
I got out the other day for a blast on the motorbike.
And Bec is now 33 weeks gone and doing great!
A little bit of history........
I had read in the owners manual that every soft top 70 when it was sold new, had a bag in the glove box with all the rubber covers in which cover the tops of the doors when the windows and frames are removed.
Sadly most of these have long since been lost and I had never even seen one until recently, when some one mentioned on the Bundera Facebook page that they had one, so I asked for some pics.
Last edited:
Brilliant Ben, good progress in the face of adversity! It's going to be a new truck when you're done mate!
Combatants
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Great update Ben. Let us know which Club you are looking at using for the Bundera on Club Rego.
Also for club rego you now need a road worthy cert
Also for club rego you now need a road worthy cert
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Thanks mate.
Plan is to join my old 4wd club once back in Melbourne, the Dandenong Ranges 4wd club.
Before I left there was talk of the club starting to do club reg, but looking at the huge list on the VicRoads website I cant see their name so maybe that never eventuated, I will have to ask them.
Failing that I may join the Landcruiser club of Victoria. I was put off that club years ago as they insist on you doing a days 4wd training before you can go on any of their trips, but when speaking to Club4x4 insurance recently for a quote the guy asked if I had done any certified courses for driver training and if I had it results in a nice discount, so that would be good if I go through that club for my club reg.
All of my old bosses historic Toyota's are on club reg through that club too.
Roadworthy isnt a problem, I know a guy.
Plan is to join my old 4wd club once back in Melbourne, the Dandenong Ranges 4wd club.
Before I left there was talk of the club starting to do club reg, but looking at the huge list on the VicRoads website I cant see their name so maybe that never eventuated, I will have to ask them.
Failing that I may join the Landcruiser club of Victoria. I was put off that club years ago as they insist on you doing a days 4wd training before you can go on any of their trips, but when speaking to Club4x4 insurance recently for a quote the guy asked if I had done any certified courses for driver training and if I had it results in a nice discount, so that would be good if I go through that club for my club reg.
All of my old bosses historic Toyota's are on club reg through that club too.
Roadworthy isnt a problem, I know a guy.
