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LJ78 Build Thread

We have a small rectangular shaped Weber BBQ, not sure if yo can get them now, but pack away so much easier than round ones
 
Thanks Ed, gives me more ideas to think about. :thumbup:

As you know we tend to just cook on the fire when we go camping, but there will be occasions when we cant have fires.

So I'm thinking of getting one of the small Weber Baby Q BBQ's that we could take with us on those trips. Just got to see how I can fit it into the boot of the car. :think:

I think it will be more practical for us than the traditional camping gas stove and you can also cook roasts and cakes in them. :icon-cool:

Different things work for different people - unlike most camper trailers our kitchen isn't fixed, nor is the sink permanently plumbed in. Instead we have the option of a 1500mm x 400mm bench, with the cooker off to one side and the sink (washing up bowl) tucked underneath out the way. This works for us, we have 2x blue boxes with cooking stuff in (and the cooker lives behind that when in transit), and then 3x drawers (2 thin and one deep) and a shelf underneath.

There is always the juggling act with fire bans etc with cookers, and they can vary from place to place.

One of the Tassie caravan parks we stayed on had Weber Q's dotted around the park, and a pizza oven in the camp kitchen!

My only thought with the Weber is that you'll have the gas cylinder as well won't you? All more weight and space used up...
 
Thanks guys. :thumbup:

Gives me a few more ideas to think about. :icon-biggrin:

I've managed to get a bit more done on this project over the last week! :dance:

Firstly a huge thanks to Iwan for the 2 washer bottles he kindly sent me! :clap:

So I now have a windscreen washer bottle to replace the one that was missing when I bought this car and another to replace the headlight washer bottle that was with this vehicle, but which some fool had melted a big hole in the top of. :icon-smile:

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Yesterday I drained the oil out of the gearbox, transferbox and leaking rear diff.

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Removed the prop shafts, gearbox/transferbox, cross member and all the exhaust heat shields and gave them a good degrease and pressure wash.

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I could then give the underside a good clean with degreaser.

Before cleaning.

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(forgot to take an after shot, but it came up really good.)

Got LJ's chassis out the front and gave it a good pressure wash and degrease.

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And now with RJ out of the garage and almost ready to sell I could push LJ's chassis in and remove the engine and gearbox/transferbox ready to fit into the 78.

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I need to remove the flywheel so I can get it machined, as LJ has always been a bit jumpy when pulling off, so I suspect the flywheel needs machining.

I want to rebuild the leaking power steering pump and replace a few engine seals.

The 78 is coming in the garage this week and I will repair the rust areas and treat, seal and coat the underneath before the new engine and box go in.

As soon as the engine is in and its drivable again it can go off to the panel shop for a respray! :dance:
 
Sadly when removing the 1KZ-T engine from the LJ70 chassis the bloody thing fell over. :doh:

I managed to grab it and stop it falling over completely, but not before it broke one of the cast, bell housing brackets. :icon-evil:

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After doing some googling, I established I should be able to TIG weld it back together using stainless steel filler wire.

So I got it clamped together, which wasnt easy given its odd shape.

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And got a few tacks on it.

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Once I'm certain its in the correct position I will fully weld it.

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I removed the flywheel and clutch.

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Took the flywheel to be machined.

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The guy said it was slightly warped but not too bad.

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I got the new heavy duty steering bar assembled.

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And injected the ball joints with fresh grease.

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Despite space being really short in the garage thanks to the 1KZ-T waiting to go in this project, next to the 1UZ-FE V8 waiting to go in the LJ70 chassis and the gearbox/transferbox for this one.

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I finally managed to get the 78 in the garage!

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Which is good as it was starting to rust on the drive. :doh:

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Which is one of the reasons I could never paint over this blue primer as I just done know what the previous idiot owners have painted over and tried to cover up! :icon-rolleyes:

I dont give a shit about the bonnet, thats basically scrap anyway after the previous owner drilled holes in it to mount a cheap nasty light bar.

But I do care about the passenger guard (wing) and bellow the windscreen.

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Those areas will need to be sanded back and treated.

The passenger side inner guard is rotten below where the headlight washer bottle sits and needs to be replaced.

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I removed all the front end panels, these will get sanded down, repaired, replaced and painted before being refitted after the new engine goes in.

Should make fitting the new engine much easier with them out of the way.

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I thought about repairing the passenger side inner wheel arch thats rotten below the headlight bottle.

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But as this car is an import it is reinforced to carry the extra battery, so repairing it will be difficult, as I wont be able to fully paint/seal the metal where that reinforcing plate is and the rust/rot will just continue.

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Some of the square headlight Bundera's (LJ70/RJ70) were sold in Australia in very small numbers in 1990/1991 before the model was dropped from the Australian line up. :ugeek:

However they were all single battery, so finding a reinforced, duel battery one will be next to impossible. :thumbdown:

So I think reinforcing a normal, Aussie single battery will be the best way forwards, as then I can simply bolt the painted and sealed reinforcing plate to the underside. :think:

The drivers side guard (wing) is sadly beyond repair. :doh:

Its badly dented and butchered from the shitty drain pipe snorkel.

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And some complete moron has turned it into swiss cheese attempting to drill all the spot welds out to remove the guard, not realising the whole things unbolts from the car! :angry-screaming:

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So at some point over the next few weeks I'm going to drive the 20+ hour round trip to Sydney and back to collect the replacement panels and a bull bar which will probably go on the LJ70. :sleeping-sleep:

The RJ70 project is now almost ready to sell and should be finished today, that will mean I can then concentrate 100% on this project! :icon-biggrin:

I've got 5 days off over Easter to get stuck into it and 4 days off the following weekend. :dance:

Hoping to get the body work fully cleaned up, rust treated and the underside coated and protected.

Engine and transmission fitted.

Rot cut out and the panel repaired in the rear quarter.

And the body sanded down ready for the panel shop to respray. :icon-cool:

Then as soon as the RJ70 sells and releases some money I will get the the front end panels sent to the panel shop for painting, then get them fitted and drive the 78 to them so they can respray the whole thing.

Then it can get window tinted, all new lights and seals fitted.

Snorkel, bullbar and winch can be fitted.

Then its shopping time for a roof rack, 50 litre water tank, drawer slides, plywood and carpet and I can start fitting the inside out. :happy-bouncymultic:
 
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Excellent Ben, pity about the broken casting.

Did you manage to get it aligned yet and fully welded?

I always thought cast had to be pre-heated to a certain temp before welding, but things have changed so much since I was doing it, 35 odd years ago...

:thumbup:
 
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Will be great when you finish off then RJ to free up space and time, then make even more progress. Even though you do x10 what the rest of us manage ;)
 
Shame about the shocking repairs it's had but you will know it's done right.

It's going to make a great motor
 
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That car was in great need of your skills and attention to detail Ben. It's kind of like a sick, stray dog that's found it's dream owner… especially after the moron in its history.
 
So at some point over the next few weeks I'm going to drive the 20+ hour round trip to Sydney and back to collect the replacement panels and a bull bar which will probably go on the LJ70. :sleeping-sleep:

Sing out if you're doing the New England Highway and want a stop half way (we're 480ish km from either Sydney or Brisbane.
 
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Thanks guys. :thumbup:

I've got the RJ70 virtually finished, enough for me to be able to photograph it and list it for sale. :dance:

So hopefully that sells soon. :pray:

I cant wait to get this project finished so we can start using it and planning some big trips! :icon-cool:

Excellent Ben, pity about the broken casting.

Did you manage to get it aligned yet and fully welded?

I always thought cast had to be pre-heated to a certain temp before welding, but things have changed so much since I was doing it, 35 odd years ago...

:thumbup:

No not welded it yet, but will do next week when I crack on with fitting the engine. :icon-biggrin:

Pre heat and post heat are very important when welding unusual and exotic metals. :ugeek:

But I've read of a few people having managed to weld cast without any pre or post heat, so I'm hoping I can do the same. :shifty:

Sing out if you're doing the New England Highway and want a stop half way (we're 480ish km from either Sydney or Brisbane.

Thanks mate, very kind of you. :thumbup:

But I will be looking at staying down in Sydney for one night, as I will drive down on one day and back up the next. :sleeping-sleep:
 
Plans are progressing well for the Sydney trip, I'm dropping parts off at 2 addresses and that will pay for the parts I'm picking up. :dance:

Decided I cant justify the cost of staying in a motel in Sydney, so the new plan is to leave at 10pm Saturday night, arrive in Sydney at 8am the following morning, drop off and pick up parts then turn around and drive the 10 hours home. Hoping I will only be gone for 25 hours, but if I get tired on the way back I will have to pull over for a little nap. :think:

Anyway...................

Quick update.

I Bolted the freshly machined flywheel on.

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Followed by the clutch.

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Bolted the engine and gearbox back together.

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I bolted the bracket back on that I had tack welded back together, but it was slightly out of alignment and as I tightened the bolts up it cracked. :doh:

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So with it now bolted in place and the bolts done up tight I put some really good tacks on it.

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I then got it clamped back on the bench ready to fully weld.

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Welded it with a stainless rod.

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Gave it a coat of paint.

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And bolted it on.

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Before the engine could go back in I needed to sort out the rust underneath the floor pan.

This was the small amount of surface rust I found which I think is pretty bloody good for a 26 year old 4wd.

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I decided to loose the rear heater as the pipes going to it were very rusty and obviously if they fail it could strand me some where with no coolant.

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I also needed to get rid of this cheap shitty fuel pump a previous owner had fitted, apparantly the alternator died on a 4wd trip and the ECU controlled fuel pump on the engine, shit itself, so they fitted this thing and ran it without a fuel filter. :icon-rolleyes:

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With those bits removed.

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I could tackle the surface rust.

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The drill and wire wheels worked well at removing the surface rust. :clap:

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Found a bit more towards the back of the car and this was a little bit more serious.

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So I broke out the big guns! :icon-twisted:

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Which cleaned it up nicely.

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After wiping the underside down with a rag soaked in thinners, it was time to give it a coat of this.

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I spotted this cracked bit of seamseal which I knew would have rust behind.

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Sure enough a bit rusty behind, but luckily I've caught it early enough.

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Cleaned it up and treated it.

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Pulled the old front suspension off.

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Including the bodgy home made spring spacer on the drivers side.

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I cleaned up the chassis in the engine bay and treated the small amount of surface rust.

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I masked off the rear springs and shocks.

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And got the paint and gun ready.

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This is the paint I decided to use and I followed the instructions of 2 coats, 16 hours apart.

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Painted the whole of the underside of the body and the chassis. :icon-cool:

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I decided to swap the worn coil springs with the ones off the RJ70that I'm selling, as these ones are badly worn and the front of the 78 was sagging when I bought it. :shifty:

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They looked perfect. :dance:

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But when I tried fitting them I discovered they wouldnt fit due to the top of the coil springs being slightly smaller. :doh:

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So for not I decided to borrow the ones off LJ.

If they prove to be right for the 78 I will order another set, if their not stiff enough though I know to order the next ones up. :think:

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Jacked it up.

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And pulled them off.

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On closer inspection they look identical to the ones that came on the 78 that are badly worn.

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Just briefly while were looking at LJ's chassis.............................

This is how I originally did the engine mounts when I did the 1KZ swap the first time.

This time will be a lot neater as my design and fabrication skills have improved a lot since then and there wont be any welding to the chassis. :think:

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The shocks I pulled off the 78 are in good condition but they had a lot of paint and dirt on them so I gave them a clean up with some thinners.

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The drivers side bump stop on the 78 had been destroyed. :thumbdown:

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Luckily I had a spare.

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Only mine was a left hand one and I really need a right hand one. :doh:

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So I drilled some more holes, where the white dots are on the pic below and elongated the original holes and bolted it on.

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I gave the gearbox cross member a good clean up ready for rust converter and paint.

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Found some tiny cracks around one of the captive nuts.

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Fusion welded them up. :icon-cool:

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Hung it up and gave it a coat of the rust converter followed by 2 coats of black enamel.

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I found an old genuine steering dampener that works well but was a bit rusty and dirty.

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Cleaned it up ready for rust converter spray and black enamel.

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I cleaned up the replacement steering box.

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And gave it a coat or rust converter.

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Followed by 2 coats of the black enamel and bolted it on.

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It was now time to start fitting some of the freshly painted parts. :dance:

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Steering dampener and engine mounts first.

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With the 2 coats of enamel nice and dry, I jacked the front of the chassis up and fitted the new coil springs.

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Shiny electro plated goodies next! :icon-cool:

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Followed by the shocks.

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It was now almost ready for the new engine! :dance:

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But first I needed to apply something to protect the new paint, which is protecting the underside of the vehicle. :think:

I bought a product that should work well and dug out my old shutz gun.

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Last time I used it was 4.5 years ago on LJ prior to exporting it. :think:

And TBH I've not been that impressed with this particular Dinitrol product as it left a greasy layer dirt and dust stuck to it meaning the underside of LJ has always been dirty ever since. :doh:

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So this time I selected a stone chip product that will dry and leave a flexible rubbery coating over the paint.

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It came up good but bloody hell it was messy! :shifty:

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Now it was time to fit the engine! :character-beavisbu:

Pushed the 78 back to the edge of the garage.

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And set about lifting the engine and box in.

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Had to re-jig the setup a few times to get it to work properly.

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But eventually it was roughly in place. :dance:

Next I bolted the cross member to the underside of the gearbox.

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Then I used my knees to push it up and into position and got some bolts into it.

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I lowered the engine down onto blocks of wood sat across the radius arms.

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I could then push the 78 back in and get the garage door shut.

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Next job is to design and fabricate the engine mount plates to get over the fact the 2lt engine mounts sit 60mm further forwards than the 1KZ.

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Then after that I need to design and build the mandrel bent stainless steel 3" exhaust system. :icon-cool:

Starting with this restrictive down pipe that I need to replace.

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Then I need to get the front inner and outer guards (wings), the panel behind the grill and the replacement rear door off to the panel shop for painting.

Then I can fit those and finish fitting all the engine bay components.

I'm thinking I will buy a Prado 90/120 top mount intercooler and fit that too before the bonnet gets painted, that way I can fit a bonnet scoop.

I'm hoping with the new exhaust, intercooler and boost wound up a bit I should get a few more horses out of the old lump! :icon-twisted:
 
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Nice work Ben. I wish I had your patience to get everything done right and not skip anything, shy away or procrastinate. Still, your knowledge of these trucks and experience gives you a clear idea where you are going with it, even if it is a huge amount of work. This is going to be one cracking truck when you've finished it.
 
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Good effort Ben, lots of progress and treating rust along the way
 
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What a beautiful job done there Ben, and the write-up, first class, as always mate :thumbup:

Seam seal is great for the first 10 years or so, as intended, but IME after that, it does crack, water gets in and stays there, to rot the body away without being seen.

In your case, the rust behind the seam seal looked far more penetrated and damaging than the surce rust on the open panels.

She looks factory now you've done all this, amazing condition after 26 years, like you said.

Looks like you'll soon be driving it and working on your installations, brilliant!:thumbup:
 
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Thanks guys. :thumbup:

Cant wait to get it finished and be able to start using it! :dance:

Its going to be so much more practical than LJ ever was and will be a lot more stable off road with the much longer wheel base! :icon-biggrin:
 
She's really starting to take shape well now Ben. Tell me, when you take the seamseal off is treating and painting good enough? Reason I'm asking is I took some off when redoing my rear door and figured I was going to have to cover the repair with something after painting it
 
Thanks mate. :thumbup:

After removing the old seam seal (just in that one spot, all the other stuff was OK) it got a coat of the rust convertor/primer, then 2 coats of black enamel.

Now it needs a fresh seal of seam-sealer then it will get a coat of stone chip over the top. :icon-biggrin:

Regarding seam-sealer it really needs to be one that isnt going to eat away at/damage the paint below. :ugeek:

So far I have only found this one by 3M, but I'm yet to find it in Australia and if I want to import some from the states it will cost an eye watering $89 a tube! :wtf:

http://3mcollision.com/3m-all-around-autobody-sealant-08500.html
 
Yesterday was a great day! :occasion-balloons:
Sold the RJ70 for $5500 which can all be invested in this project! :happy-wavemulticol:

I worked out that with the cost of the soft top RJ70 I bought, with the mountain of spares that came with it, many of which I sold, that even with the purchase of the donor Lexus Ls400 for the V8 engine, that the sale of the RJ70 with LJ's old worn out body that I've pretty much broken even. :obscene-drinkingbu:

Meaning I've swapped LJ's worn out old body, for a new soft top one, a Lexus V8 for it and this complete LJ78! :happy-cheerleaderk:

Obviously I will need to put probably $5-6k into this 78 and probably another $1-2k into LJ, but even so, I'm really really pleased! :icon-biggrin:

Cant wait to get them both finished now! :icon-cool:
 
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