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Parking problems

Nice one on the Krown Shayne. Looks like there may be a weep from the rear diff but you’ve already mentioned it’s been stood and you’re looking at some tired seals so no doubt you’ve got that noted somewhere. Looks pretty good underneath and if Rob couldn’t find much to worry about then that’s even better.
On the suspension, the bushes are a bit too simple a remedy, you use the existing bushes for caster correction plates.
 
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Cheers Rich i just noticed he marked the guarantee rust assessment as a 0.5 so can't complain when 0 = no rust . Where do i get these plates , are they just bolt on ?
 
I’m not really the chap to ask Shayne but I think @clivehorridge has some. Have a wee search for castor correction plates on here and something’s bound to turn up. Pretty sure they just bolt on once the truck is supported I guess.
0.5 huh, that’s better than mine. :icon-rolleyes: :clap:
 
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Aye well there's nothing under there that a wire brush wouldn't sort and inspecting the body we could find only a little surface rust under a front indicator and a pea sized hole behind a rear mudflap . So to de-rust and paint can just add a couple of hours as and when thing's need attention .

I'm looking at this suspension because i can't find a 4" alternative

http://www.pedders.co.uk/4-inch-lif...ser-80-series-abs-fitted-models_p24719388.htm

And i'm wondering about the caster correction plates i've seen mentioned on the forum , would that mean i don't need the correction bushes included ?

If you’re going 4” Shayne, I’d definitely go for correction plates, and bin or sell the correction bushes.

I’ve got the plates on mine now, they’re barely enough for the 5”/6” lift on mine, but the dropper brackets that I bought gave me too much axle rotation, the steering bar was fouling the underside of the diff casing.
 
I’m not really the chap to ask Shayne but I think @clivehorridge has some. Have a wee search for castor correction plates on here and somethings bound to turn up. Pretty sure they just bolt on once the truck is supported I guess.
0.5 huh, that’s better than mine. :icon-rolleyes: :clap:

Yes, they are bolt on, but the “just” bit is not quite so simple, and yes, standard Mr T bushings recommended.

They take a bit of thinking about and some dry runs, and axle jiggling using ratchet straps to get it aligned, but they fit and work well.

Do one side at a time, and have both wheels in the air to allow the axle to move about during location.

Short bolts on the Panhard side and the long bolts with spacer tubes on the other side. Oh, and paint them well a week before fitting (mine weren’t painted and they’re now rusty after the winter salt).
 
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I have an auto 24v 80, i'm bored of it aswell, as rare as a LHD 80 series 24v auto is, I wish I had a manual.
As for the lift, the pedders 4" kit seems a really good kit! If mine didn't already have an OME 4" kit i'd go the pedders lift kit. I'm wanting to fit the pedders castor correction bushes aswell. Don't get Polybushes, they are to hard and the mounts on the front axle shear off.
 
I'm glad you asked Rich because i'm happy to hold my hands up and say i have no idea what i need :oops:

Well, my my experience with a higher suspension lift than 4”, the drop boxes I have are too much over-correction.

If you want them Shayne they are yours, but on my truck the replacement Iron Man correction plates are sufficient.

I’m even thinking of dropping my lift a tad, it puts too much rotation on the axle (to maintain caster) and the steering bar is way too close to the diff for comfort.
 
The more i read the more i'm forced to accept its compromise upon compromise and to my uneducated mind it truly seem's a 2" suspension lift plus a 2" body lift is a genuine contender against a very expensive Slee full kit .

:shock: :think: :? i must be missing something , i usually am :icon-rolleyes:
 
I’ve just realized, I’m talking through my ass (again) when I’ve spoken about the steering arm coming close to the diff. :doh: The steering arm rotates with the axle and the diff, when you’re correcting camber, all as one unit...
 
@ nielsc

Shagged maybe original suspension and 305/70 R16 Toyo Open Country on a 16x10 et -32 rim . These tyres recommend a max rim width of 9" so on a 10" they might be about 32" tall , for me me they are the ideal rim size for the 80 though everyone has there own preferences .

DSCF2726.JPG DSCF2727.JPG DSCF2728.JPG DSCF2729.JPG
 
@ nielsc

Shagged maybe original suspension and 305/70 R16 Toyo Open Country on a 16x10 et -32 rim . These tyres recommend a max rim width of 9" so on a 10" they might be about 32" tall , for me me they are the ideal rim size for the 80 though everyone has there own preferences .

View attachment 141926 View attachment 141927 View attachment 141928 View attachment 141929

Looking good Shayne, these are a borrow off your 90 I’m guessing, they sit very close if not the same as my set-up, same rim and tyre sizes, but mine are BFG KM2 muds... :thumbup:

PS how about a full frontal? Ooo err...
 
Frustration at the lack of availability of tyres has me weighing up the pros and cons of importing everything from a free country or anywhere outside the EU for that matter so yeah they are just swapped offer from my 90 to give me some visual reference to work with .
 
Truck looks mint shayne, makes me keep toying with black again..
 
Nice... would look awesome with 35s I think
 
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