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Stalls Immediately After Starting

If engine dies when you're still on start but starter is off, doesn't this show it's probably a mechanical issue? Have you checked the injectors for fuel when cranking, this will determine if the pump is sending fuel. Then check the glow plugs like I suggested before...

These trucks will struggle to start if compression is poor as well.
 
Ah i see disconnect the starter while the engine is running to see if it keeps running (even if the key is in the wrong position) if it does then its definitely an electrical problem and if it doesn't the mechanics are also suspect .
 
Got exactly the same problem did you ever find a solution for this?
 
Got exactly the same problem did you ever find a solution for this?

I have the same problem anyone found the problem starts great once release key if immediately shutdown . I disconnect the starter wire after start and held it in crank position runs fine , any suggestions please
 
Could this be a worn key failing to engage properly with the ignition switch (rather than a faulty ignition switch as ruled out by previous posters)? Getting quite old and worn-out now. Just a thought.
 
Check your charging voltage when you’ve got it running with the wire off the starter. If it’s much below 14.4v the alternator could have a faulty diode and pumping AC into the system. An ECU probably wouldn’t like that.
Trevor’s oil pressure sender fix sounds a strong one. It’s a shame we didn’t hear back from Mikey. He’s no longer on here.
 
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Check your charging voltage when you’ve got it running with the wire off the starter. If it’s much below 14.4v the alternator could have a faulty diode and pumping AC into the system. An ECU probably wouldn’t like that.
Trevor’s oil pressure sender fix sounds a strong one. It’s a shame we didn’t hear back from Mikey. He’s no longer on here.
I will try that . Will let you know
 
Disconnected alternator .. Didn't work .i out of ideas. I am thinking getting a ecu
 
I wouldn't expect anyone to agree but i reckon the first thing i would do is smack the fuel pump with a hammer .

The spill control valve doesn't often fail on these but it can .
 
Any other ideas ? Anyone
Yes, try the test I suggested. Disconnecting the alternator will remove any AC but won’t tell you if the alternator is ok which it probably is if you aren’t getting other problems like battery drain.

As Shayne says, SCVs can give trouble but don’t usually show up like this (and it runs fine when in the start position).

Back in this thread, Trevor mentioned two fixes on posts 12 and 13. Oil pressure and corroded connections.

Check all electrical connections especially those mentioned in Trevor’s post and that there is voltage from the ignition switch in the run position. Check this connection also appears at the ECU. Tempting though it is to simply replace parts until the truck works, you need to trace the fault and prove a part faulty before replacing. The ECU can be opened and some have had internal components fail which can show up visibly. If you can borrow an ECU to try then that might rule the ECU out. It is more likely a connection or an external input that the ECU is expecting as it runs with the starter disconnected in the start position. The oil pressure sender and alternator are two devices which can be used to tell an ECU the engine is running. You’ve eliminated the alternator, it’s worth checking the oil pressure sender.
 
The ignition switch mentioned by digger dave sounds like something worth checking out. Had experienced a similar issue with an old VW.
 
According to the internet, this engine has electronic controlled injection. Hence it is likely to have both a crankshaft and camshaft sensor. It is also quite likely that during starting the ECU only needs one of both signals to regulate the fuel delivery. Once started, both are required to accurately inject fuel. With one of these signals missing, the ECU would probably just stop injecting. This is just a working hypothesis based on the fact that the obvious electrics seem to be fine. I'm no expert.
 
The KZ has a crank position sensor located just underneath the start motor, but it does not have a cam position sensor. The engine will start without the crank position sensor but will run rough and diesel knock will be heard. However, it will run. It will however, not run nor start without the RPM sensor working. This sensor sits on top of the injector pump. The bottom valve on the pump, timing valve is also needed alongside the actual SCV to run/start. No other electronics are needed to start this lump.

The fact it will run in the crank position says that the electronic side of the sensors are functioning as it should. But power is being cut when the key returns back to the ON position. Maybe take out the ignition barrel and give it a clean
 
The KZ has a crank position sensor located just underneath the start motor, but it does not have a cam position sensor. The engine will start without the crank position sensor but will run rough and diesel knock will be heard. However, it will run. It will however, not run nor start without the RPM sensor working. This sensor sits on top of the injector pump. The bottom valve on the pump, timing valve is also needed alongside the actual SCV to run/start. No other electronics are needed to start this lump.

The fact it will run in the crank position says that the electronic side of the sensors are functioning as it should. But power is being cut when the key returns back to the ON position. Maybe take out the ignition barrel and give it a clean
Exactly. Hence suggesting to test for voltage coming back from the run position. :)
 
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