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UK to South Africa through west coast of Africa

Howzit Boet,

How are things??

Haven't heard from you in a while.............drop us a line to say you're okay.

Safe travels :thumbup:

Andre
 
Abuja, Nigeria to Buea, Cameroon

Sorry for delayed updates :oops:

Been hard at work here in SA. Job hunting, swimming, eating, drinking etc :mrgreen:


4-6-2011

Leaving Abuja


Today we left Abuja and drove to Makurdi. Some crazy driving, as it has rained the whole day. People drive badly, but at least the cops arent out asking for bribes thanks to the rain!

The roadside is so badly eroded. Lots of cars, minibuses etc lying on their sides or roofs! Another timely reminder to NOT drive at night.

We will stay at a place called the Dolphin Hotel. Nicely priced, but no elecricity. At least we get a bucket shower.

Some of the local guys are very impressed with the truck. They want to know if the snorkel is an exhaust. Also why are we driving down to SA? "For fun." "WHAAAAAAT!!"

Have a good chat, and then retire to the room to watch a movie on the laptop.

5-6-11

Today we'll be driving to Ikom. The weather has cleared up a bit which is nice. But unfortunately that means the police are out in full force. Obviously need to make up for their loss of income yesterday.

Sorry chaps, we're not paying!

There are a few options for accomodation but we decide to head to the Drill Ranch.

Its a natural reserve, where they protect the endangered drill monkey's. They also have this little potto - like a bush baby. Its hands feel like a human's. Poor thing is losing its hair.

There is a nice canopy walk in the forest, and there are some chimps that throw stones at the visitors..!
We have a walk around the place but when we leave we find out we have been charged for a full guided tour. So beware!

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The Drill

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Road to Drill Ranch

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Camp


6-6-11

Into Cameroon - The notorious Ekok to Mamfe road.

Today we cross the border. The formalities pass by without too much fuss.

We will miss Nigeria, the country and its people have been great. Really really cool place.

We asked throughout the country how good/bad the road was. Most said it would take us a few days to get through! Cameroon ambassador said we had NO CHANCE getting through. The road has obviously had some work done, as we got through easily. Same couldnt be said for many others though. A lot of trucks and sedans(!) and bakkies were stuck. Gives us an opportunity to pull some people out though :)

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Ekok - Mamfe

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Checked into the Data Hotel.

Had a meal in their restaurant. Grilled chicken and omelette. Delicious.

The place is nice, and we splash out on an air conditioned room... well should have guessed it. The power goes out and so the aircon is pointless.

We are heading to Buea today but first we change the brake pads and give the truck an oil change. While this is happening we notice a guy bashing his dear old banger into shape. This car is obviously the guy's pride an joy. In Europe it would have been on the scrap heap years ago. He is banging the frame with a hammer and the hammer goes through the windscreen.

He is crushed. Poor chap :(

So we head to Buea. The road from Mamfe to Kumbe is awful. We will spend the night at the presbyterian mission. Cheap clean rooms and internet too! Have a meal at a restaurant. Try some local dishes. Really tasty.

We head to sleep soon after. Got an early start to get to Yaounde. Mt Cameroon is stunning. Pity we cant spend much time here and have a climb.

Some Co-ords

Drill Ranch, Nigeria N6 18.169 E9 00.100
Data Hotel, Mamfe N5 45.113 E9 19.265
Presbyterian Guest House, Buea N4 09.693 E9 13.981
 
Hi and thanks for the update,
Looks amazing.
Just what a good trip should be like.
Stunning pictures.

Gra.
 
Graham said:
Hi and thanks for the update,
Looks amazing.
Just what a good trip should be like.
Stunning pictures.

Gra.

Cheers, Graham :D
 
Yaoundé, Cameroon to Libreville, Gabon

8-6-11

Today we are heading for Yaoundé, to get some more visas. :shifty: Amazingly the roads in Cameroon are in excellent condition :auto-driving: - after the first bad bits. :auto-swerve:

Got to the Gabonese embassy, but were just too late to apply today.

So we have found another presbyterian mission, where we can camp. The place is nice - at night there are fireflies all over. We play some cards over a beer then hit the sack.

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9-6-11

Today we applied for the Gabonese visa, for Simone. South African citizen's dont require a visa. YAY
Security wont allow Kevin into the embassy as he is wearing shorts. Its pretty chaotic here, and they dont allow anyone into the compund. Everything is done at the gate. Customer services is not a strong point at embassies we have found. No surprise there.

10-6-11

Days are spent looking around the city, catching up on email's, reading, and drinking beer. We found a great cafe serving excellent food and drinks for a decent price.
We met our first overlanders of the trip. Dave & Donna from Ireland. They have just arrived from DRC and are a little shaken, and it seems they are keen to get back to Europe as soon as possible. They were attacked in a small village and their 80 series Land Cruiser has the back window smashed. They were arrested and threatened and overall didnt have a great time. They had come down the east coast route and were heading north.

13-6-11

Go to Gabon embassy, but its a public holiday there so they are CLOSED. More waiting.

14-6-11

Simone gets her visa today. But not after we have to wait the entire day outside the embassy. Not so bad, as we chat the whole time with a Swiss couple. Wero & Tera. They are travelling in a Mercedes camper. Check out their website: http://werotera.ch . Wero cannot believe how long we are taking for our trip. I say "3-4 months to get to SA from England" He almost falls over at the thought! They have been travelling all over the world and are fortunate enough to take their time. He also cannot believe the number of punctures we've had so far. (zero). They have had 46 so far!

We ask their plans for Angola. They plan on heading to Lubumbashi from Kinshasa. We later find out this will likely be impossible in their van. From what I can make out on their site, they are currently in Kinshasa and are contemplating heading to Lubumbashi. Yikes! :shock: :naughty:

15-6-11

Today we head to Gabon. The roads are amazing! Just as I'm thinking how great they would be on a bike, we spot a BMW GS overlander heading the opposite way. He must be having a great time..

We spend the night in an auberge.

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16-6-11

Well we didnt get much sleep last night. The owner of the auberge was cranking out the music all night. We head for Libreville. We find a place called La Maree. The owner is eccentric to say the least but very kind - they let us camp on their grounds free. We will try get the Angolan visa here . :pray:

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17-6-11

Angolan embassy says sorry, no visa's here - only in your home country - or at country before you enter, i.e DRC. Well it was worth a try.

Tonight we are wild camping near the Lope National park. We are heading east towards Congo Brazzaville, via Franceville. :thumbup:

Gabon is pretty. We see that bush meat is very popular here. In Libreville a restaurant has a live crocodile sitting on the pavement. I read that eating bushmeat is legal for personal consumption only, but that's not what is happening. Monkeys, everything is ready for you to eat.

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Hi Kevin,

Still even more congrats' to you.

Excellent pictures.
Was there a problem with the roof tent, in one of the pictures it looks a little " skew", or have you simply just threw the zipped cover off, ready for opening the tent?

So the notorious bribes continue,,,

No wonder Central Africa will never ammount to any thing more than a waste of space, although a pretty waste of space in some places.

Gra.
 
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Franceville, Gabon to Congo-Brazzaville

18-6-11

So we spent the night bush camping, and cooked some 2 minute noodles over the fire. We drive though the Lope National park and head east to Franceville.

We had been undecided on whether or not we should drive south through Gabon to Dolisie. We've heard it might be possible to get a visa for Angola there for US$100. However we hear there are bandits operating on the road between Dolisie and Brazzaville. We decide we want to see more of Congo so will go via Franceville to Oyo in Congo, then take the road south to Brazzaville.

In Brazza we should be able to get visas for DRC and hopefully Angola..

We almost run out of diesel, and if it was not for the 20 l we had in a jerry we would have been stranded.

We arrive in Franceville and are allowed to cap in a hotel's grounds - provided we eat at their expensive restaurant. We meet a Kiwi who is travelling around Africa by public transport. He has just crossed the border where we intend to. He reckons we have no chance getting through the soft sand. :snooty:

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Franceville

19-6-11

Crossing Gabon -> Congo-Brazzaville

So we left Franceville early so we could take our time and we were anticipating bad conditions. Shortly after Franceville the tar ends and then it is just very soft sand. There are a few places where clearance is an issue, but nothing too stressful.

We stamp out of Gabon and then get to the Congo border post. It is LITERALLY a mud hut in the middle of nowhere. The two officials on duty are looking for some money and we are the ones who must pay.
They check the documents. Passport - check. Vaccinatios - check. Vehicle documents. Check. Visa. Check. They cant think of anything else then ask for "Hotel Reservations". No we dont have this and they know we wont. We are presented with 2 options. Go back to Franceville, book a hotel and return with proof of a booking. OR we can pay a fine of US$400 each to waive this requirement.

We told them, listen we're in no mood for these games, we have NO INTENTION of paying anything, we have paid for our visas and THAT's IT. I tell them I can wait here all day and if need be will camp here for a week, we have food and gas to last us ages, but we arent paying.

So they continue saying we cannot proceed. However I notice that they are completing all our details in the register. If they werent going to let us through then they wouldnt be filling it in. So we just kicked back in the shade and waited.

One of the officials could speak Portuguese but Simone just pretended not to understand what they were saying.

As usual, after a while, we were allowed through...

After some really bad sandy roads we got to some perfect tarred roads. Once we got to the first big town, we were stopped by a friendly policeman. Took us to the police station to complete some forms. Then we were instructed to pay 5000 francs each. We informed him we have paid for our visa's and that was all we were going to pay. There was another standoff, which was odd as the people who were locked up behind bars were watching the whole thing and thought it was quite amusing.

So, as usual, after a while, we were allowed to continue, with our wallets intact.

We thought the worst was over but after a few hours driving, we were stopped by about 40-50 people protesting in the street. It was all friendly to begin with, and they were all dancing with hoe's in hand. Some of the women then asked for some food. Then the requests became demands. Then everyone was shouting and banging on the car. The car was getting hit with the hoe's and I was not keen on this!!

I hit the pedal and miraculously, nobody was hurt. Looking in the rear view mirror there was just a huge black cloud of diesel smoke, and 40 odd people running towards us!

This wasnt a great introduction to Congo. After a few hours it was time to look for a place to camp.

Bush camping was on the cards again. We made a nice braai and managed to get some good sleep.

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Road east of Franceville heading to border

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The General Grabber AT2's performing faultlessly...


20-6-11

Another early start - today we are heading for Brazzaville. We leave at 4:30am.

The road is tarred the whole way. The Chinese have been busy and its some of the best roads we've experienced, except for some in Cameroon.
On the way I am not paying attention and we go off the side of the road at 120 kph. Luckily we dont lose control, and manage to gently get the car back on the road. That could have gone seriously wrong!!

We arrive in Brazzaville and head straight to the Angolan embassy to beg/plead for visa's. Nope, not here either. This is getting irritating. We will try again tomorrow see if we can break them down.

We are camping at the Hotel Hippocampe. Olivier and his family let overlanders camp here free. He is a true gentleman and we owe him one, big time! We have a meal in the restaurant - some of the best food we've had in a long time.

There are two other dutch couples staying there too. They've gone from Europe to SA east coast and are now driving back up the west coast. Lucky buggers. Vincent & Karin in a 60 series cruiser, and Gerard & Marlous in a classic VW camper.

We learn from them that the DRC has changed their visa rules. You must apply in your country of residence, or you will be refused entry. They were trying to enter DRC from Angola and were refused entry. They assumed this was because they wanted a bribe, but no it turned out the DRC officials were going by the letter of the law. They ended up camping in no-man's land for 4 days, while getting embassies involved.

So we need to think of a plan to get into DRC.

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Kevin

great pics and write up - that picture of the LC parked in the shade of the Acacia is absolutely awesome! Really does it for me!

After returning to the UK from our London to Cape Town trip - dragged it out to 2.5 years, I started up my own tree surgery business - Acacia Tree Care, has a special place in my memories.

Hope all goes well in SA.

Chris
 
Brazzaville to Luozi, DRC

21-06-2011

Today we went to the DRC embassy to get some visa’s. We were a bit worried that they would refuse and we’d have to courier our passports home. In the end it turned out to be a simple, cheap process. What a result for the DRC..! The forms are in French though so we missed one question out which delayed it a bit. They said to come back tomorrow to collect the visas. If we had completed it properly we’d have got it the same day. The visa was 35 000 CFA. Most DRC embassies we’d been to before were obviously trying to con us. Glad we stuck it out.

We try to wear the Angolans down into giving us a visa. It’s not working. The security guy reckons we’re wasting our time, he has seen countless people being turned away.

We meet Daniel a guy from London on his BMW bike. He regales us with tales of adventure in Burkina Faso. His hotel was looted while he was asleep, and there was huge trouble in the area at the time. It was news to us, as we were in the area at the same time. Luckily we missed the action.

We went exploring in Brazzaville and are amazed at the difference between where we are staying and the shanty towns on the outskirts..

We had a good ol’ burger and chips for dinner and of course a few beers.





22-6-2011

Today we head to the DRC Embassy to collect our visa’s. All done, no problem.

We’ve been debating how to get into DRC. We hear constant horror stories of the ferry to Kinshasa. So that is definitely out.
I had spoken to the Langebaan Sunset couple, who had kindly given GPS co-ordinates for an alternative ferry crossing. They had given stark warnings that it should not be attempted in the wet. We checked with the dutch couples, and they went a similar route with no problems.

The ferry we will get is at Luozi. It will take a few days to complete the Brazzaville-Luozi-Matadi leg. The couple in the 60-series Land Cruiser did it in something like 2 days, the guys in the VW camper took 3 or 4 days. They had to do some major road-construction to get through.

Only problem is we must avoid a village on the opposite side of the river, which trashed Dave & Donna’s 80-series cruiser, before promptly getting them arrested..


23-6-11

Spent some time today looking to get the gas bottle refilled. At the gas depot there are guys totally wasted. Drunk falling everywhere from huffing gas.
I thought that’s a good sign, we’ll skip all the health and safety and just get the bottle filled. But even they weren’t interested. Tried offering a few dollars extra to no avail.

Took some time to check out some more of Brazzaville.

They had a celebration for the Congo’s military. I think it was their 50th anniversary. Streets were packed with people celebrating, and a parade of the military. Walking down the street the military’s sole fighter jet was doing some manoeuvres above the city. The pilot was flying so low over us it was quite a sight. I believe it was a MiG-21.

Tonight we’ll have a big meal and some beer to say farewell to everyone and will head off to DRC tomorrow.

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24-6-11

Today we got going fairly early. We don’t have insurance and some of the cops here actually check for it, so we want to go while its quiet, and the cops are still asleep..

We head towards a town called Boko. From there its pretty much offroad all the way to Luozi. Around 120km’s worth. To complete the formalities to exit the Congo, was fairly straightforward. The guy was very affable, wanting to help us in any way he can. He says, oh don’t worry about the stamps, it’ll waste your time, just go straight ahead. But we try telling him we need these stamps, especially for the carnet.

He doesn’t get why we’d WANT stamps but says he doesn’t have them. So he calls a local boy on a bicycle and despatches him to go fetch the stamps and ink.

About half an hour later the kid is back, breathless, with the stamps. We get it all stamped and we’re off into the mythical DRC….


The roads were very badly eroded and in just plain bad condition. But its totally isolated out here so we take our time and enjoy it. We later tell a biker to take this route after he gets refused entry at Kinshasa. He does the route but says it’s the hardest riding he’s had all the way since he left England.

According to the GPS we average 10km/h for this leg.

We got to the village Dendanga, This is where you get stamped into DRC. This village is well and truly running on Africa time. We are keen to get going, we want to find a place to stay at Luozi before it gets dark. Nobody here is in a rush, so we must wait. We must leave the car on the side of the mountain while we accompany a local official to find the big daddy in charge.

He wants to inspect our car first. Then they think they find something ‘wrong’ with our passports. Okay, so that’s it, you want money eh?

He says we must walk to the village, he will drive our car. No way is that happening!

We get to the office after a long wait in the heat. I’m waiting for it. He opens the passports makes an elaborate show of getting his register out. Then he says “$20 each”. Like clockwork.

No, you are not getting anything, and I’m not in the mood for this. It’s HOT and we’ve been made to wait ages already. After we go through the usual motions, he gives up and we’re on our way.

We eventually get to Luozi and know of a mission where we can stay. The lady working there is very strange. She says we can camp for free and make a donation if we please. So we give her the going rate for camping, something like 5000 francs. She looks like we’ve insulted her entire family. Strange!

The place is littered with Land Cruisers waiting for some attention.

We cook up some food, and go check out the ferry crossing for the morning.

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Road to Dendanga


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Old Belgian Congo border

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Would be slippery when wet..
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Cruisers in need of some TLC:
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25-6-2011

Early start. Go to get the ferry. Its quite busy, and so we are in for a wait.

Ferry costs us 12000 francs. $15. Its all pretty painless and a huge relief we don’t have to use the Brazzaville-Kinshasa ferry.

We get going and set Matadi in our sights.

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Some waypoints

Boko Village – Offroad from here.
S4 46.970 E14 37.669

Dendanga Village – Used to have a ferry operating here. Get stamped into DRC here. Luozi is west.
S4 52.790 E14 22.597

Luozi Mission
S4 56.977 E14 08.104

Ferry - $US15 for a car. Bikes & Pedestrians go free
S4 56.428 E14 08.801
 
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