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underbody treatment

This one is a walk away I think guys.
But more worryingly, I've just rolled under a high-priced very very nice 120. It wasn't much different to the above, bit better, but not much.

For this particular search I am getting concerned about the undersides of both 120's and 100's. There was a Disco 3 next to the 120 so I shimmied under. Same year. Far far better (quite an irony bearing in mind LR rot reputation).
 
Out of interest, what age 100s have you looked at? I haven't been to look at any yet because I want a 5sp auto and anything not madly priced has all been 100 miles + from me. I'm interested to know how shabby they are likely to be underneath.
 
Its all in the prep work if you want something to last. We have shot blasted steel structures back to white metal and then used a three coat system of two pack paint. and eight years on its still looking very good. but ive seen shoddy jobs with very poor prep pealing off within a year. so if you want something to last you need to put the time in.
 
Funnily enough Rob I was remembering those box sections on the Morris Minors !! Also I bought a 1950 LR in 1970. I stripped it completely and found chassis and outriggers perfect even though similar construction to the later LR's where the rear cross member rusts.

The 80 sills rot from the inside out and also the bottoms of the rear wheel arches behind the quarter bumpers.

It IS possible to make long life rust resistant steel. My 1989 Audi was advertised with "long life exhaust". I did 240,000 miles in it over 17 years and the exhaust was rusty but only lightly so. It certainly was not stainless steel nor was it plated or aluminised.
 
I agree its probably the quality of steel that lets newer cruisers down rather than mrT's protection , my trucks 18 years old with plenty of bare metal showing but the rust is superficial . Rust is just a natural process , deny air reaching the steel whether its rusty or not and you halt the process . Your knackered if its penetrated and you can't seal the inner side but surface rust doesn't worry me at all .
 
Think I've mentioned this on here before but I've started using this stuff http://learchem.com/products/corrosion-block.html instead of any wax based products. It's a low viscosity (slightly thinner than 0w engine oil) oil based product with incredible penetration properties. I'm pleased with the results so far. Doesn't actually 'cure' the rust but seems to halt it's progress. JMO
 
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I've just bought some of the same stuff, based on how effective the ACF 50 is on motorbikes. I use it every 2 years on the Blackbird and there's no corrosion anywhere and its 14 years old. I've dedicated a patch on the Collie to test the effectiveness of this product. One has to be careful using it as its too easy to rust proof the floor.
 
Out of interest, what age 100s have you looked at? I haven't been to look at any yet because I want a 5sp auto and anything not madly priced has all been 100 miles + from me. I'm interested to know how shabby they are likely to be underneath.

Good luck with the rust free Hundie search. You might get lucky but be prepared to invest time and money in your quest. I bought the 1st one I viewed but thats another story.
In general they are about as good as the rest of the 8 year + Cruisers. Sometimes an 80 pops up that shows the later models up a bit.
 
I've just bought some of the same stuff, based on how effective the ACF 50 is on motorbikes. I use it every 2 years on the Blackbird and there's no corrosion anywhere and its 14 years old. I've dedicated a patch on the Collie to test the effectiveness of this product. One has to be careful using it as its too easy to rust proof the floor.

I also used the ACF on the ZZR from new in 2012. Had all the bodywork off and gave it a good application. Topped it up once in Summer 2014. Just removed the bodywork and thoroughly cleaned the whole bike in preparation for a valve service and all the engine cases etc are like brand new! I apply the CB at quite high pressure to get a very fine mist, best done on a wind free day, to avoid over application and minimise dripping. AS you say Andy it's very easy to treat the floor which becomes quite slippery when it gets wet!
 
Out of interest, what age 100s have you looked at? I haven't been to look at any yet because I want a 5sp auto and anything not madly priced has all been 100 miles + from me. I'm interested to know how shabby they are likely to be underneath.
Saw an 03 and an 01, 4 speeders. Both "proper" cars on the surface, 1/2 owners. Both not good at all underneath. Am concluding there are a lot that need significant work out there.
Not really got the budget for a 05/06 one.
 
Good luck with the rust free Hundie search. You might get lucky but be prepared to invest time and money in your quest. I bought the 1st one I viewed but thats another story.
In general they are about as good as the rest of the 8 year + Cruisers. Sometimes an 80 pops up that shows the later models up a bit.
I suspect that its not just down to build quality but also down to the fact that 80's have been an enthusiast-type vehicle for a long time now so more likely to have already gone through remdial works some time back?
 
Atleast two sets of people at toyota have said to me that the 80 was built for a harsher supported lifecycle than the 100s and 120s were. I suspect a free win from that has been they keep better when used in the same conditions.
 
Well that's blown that out the water then Shayne[emoji4]. Maybe it is that he keeps dipping the cruiser in the conductive salt water that makes the unit effective.

No idea until I try it with my own hands but safe to say I'm not fitting it any time soon. As for all manufacturers fitting it to their cars at the factory…c'mon, really? Ford have made a fortune on cars/vans that rust away. Why would a manufacturer want to stop the major reason for someone needing to buy a new car?
 
Aye but how much is spent keeping rust off the Eiffel tower , oil rigs , the golden gate bridge , if such a cure were available i reckon those guys could scrape together a couple of quid to buy it .
 
Well that's blown that out the water then Shayne[emoji4]. Maybe it is that he keeps dipping the cruiser in the conductive salt water that makes the unit effective.

No idea until I try it with my own hands but safe to say I'm not fitting it any time soon. As for all manufacturers fitting it to their cars at the factory…c'mon, really? Ford have made a fortune on cars/vans that rust away. Why would a manufacturer want to stop the major reason for someone needing to buy a new car?


I've heard this theory many times and I don't buy it, the theory I mean! The vast majority of new car sales are not because the old one's have rusted out but because people want something new/different/updated.
 
Aye but how much is spent keeping rust off the Eiffel tower , oil rigs , the golden gate bridge , if such a cure were available i reckon those guys could scrape together a couple of quid to buy it .

That just about says it all. Network Rail recently spent £130m on a complete repaint of the Fourth Bridge (back to bare metal) with a special 3 coat system. I guess they didn't no about this electronic gadget then!:lol:
 
"Special three coat system "

Etch, primer and top coat?.. :icon-smile:
 
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