Who is doing what maintenance today?

[BobMurphy]

Back on the 100's sump today (you still awake at the back ??).

Getting these things off can be a pain, and this was no exception. I started by pushing a small flexible steel scraper into the joint and then tapping it along with a hammer. It was going OK but I was running out of hammer room.

At the rear, there isn't enough room for the scraper between the back on the sump and front of the bell housing - so I resorted to (an old) screwdriver and the hammer.

Eventually I got the screwdriver in a bit and then gave it a mighty heave . . . . There was a "Slurp . . Bong" sort of noise and it came loose. After that it took no time to release the front, which slid out from under the cross-member.

It looked very clean inside and I couldn't see any holes . . . Hmmmmm I hope I haven't just wasted my time .

The next job was to remove the oil level sensor and prep it for fitting to the new sump.

A wash down with Kerosene and a scrub with a stiff paintbrush cleared the dirt.

It is screwed into a mounting that is fixed to the sump. It came out cleanly and looks fine. I'll use some 'Blue Hylomar' on the old rubber seal just in case.

I was curious about the leaks so cleaned the whole sump pan with hot water and industrial cleaner then knocked off the rust.

I hadn't appreciated (until Chris pointed it out) that the sump is double-skinned. The outer skin has rusted through in a few places and the inner has become perforated as well. The oil seems to be finding its way between the skins.

A few holes (once the rust has been scraped away):

More holes than a Swiss cheese . Maybe I didn't waste my £250 on the new sump after all (that's an Amayama discount price from UAE).

Tomorrow I'll clean the face of the block and fit the new sump. Then, as the best books say, "Assembly is the reverse procedure" .

I drained the oil five days ago - but its still dripping, that's why I'm in no hurry to move forward - I don't want oil in the joint .

Hopefully a happy ending next time .

Bob.

 

[Chris]

Slurp bong. Yep that's the one Bob. Man that is a seriously stuffed sump. You don't park your vehicles in an acid bath do you Bob? Never seen a sump like that in fact not sure I have seen a chassis like that. Oh then again ...

 

[clivehorridge]

How strange, I wonder why the double skin? Thicker steel, yes, but it somehow looks like both skins have rusted from the inside out.

 

[BobMurphy]

Never seen a sump like that in fact not sure I have seen a chassis like that. Oh then again ...

Yes, it was a bad buy. I knew it was rusty underneath but not how bad it was. I have had to replace the fuel tank, filler pipe, Power Steering hoses, brake back-plates, front wings (being painted at present) . . the list is endless. Now the inner sills are giving out and that is a welding job I don't relish.

The truck came from Yorkshire, I bought it four years ago, they either have more salt on the roads there than we do here in Scotland or its been in the sea!

Cars don't last long up here, I once put a hole in the wing of a two-year-old car while washing it .

Bob.

 

[BobMurphy]

Today I fetched the new sump from the upstairs 'glory hole' in preparation for fitting.

Mmmmmmm Shiny .

I cleaned off the labels and then thought that I should probably give it some extra protection.

So, four coats of black Smoothrite later . . .

HHHMMMMMMMMM Even MORE shiny .

The question now is - should I put the plastic & foam cover back on ???

I probably will, this sump will outlive the truck .

So, not much progress, while I waited for the paint to dry I cut the grass .

Hopefully tomorrow I'll start to put it all together again.

Bob.

 

[Towpack]

How strange, I wonder why the double skin? Thicker steel, yes, but it somehow looks like both skins have rusted from the inside out.

https://patents.google.com/patent/US5465692

 

[Natal]

After taking 5 min to get the front wheel off and cap and c clip its taken me the best part of an hour to get one of those bastard cone washers out. I don’t have a copper mallet and have decided that one is needed. Can anyone recommend a good all-round hammer for the job.

a ball peen hammer worked for me to get the cone washers out just tap on top side of the center cap right above the studs . i just replaced the inner and outer bearings and racers also replace all six studs.

 

[BobMurphy]

The sump saga continues (I confess I've not been rushing it ).

With the sump off I was pondering the crank - should I be doing something in here ??? Thankfully not as I don't think the 24 valve motor has the big end problems of the earlier 12 valve.

With the sump paint dry I applied the RTV (yes . . I've far too many 'projects' on the workbench ).

After allowing a couple of minutes for it to cure and with all the tools and bolts to hand I went to fit it . . . DOH! I couldn't get it over the rear two studs. It seems it can pull off but not push on.

Curses, I had to put the sump to one side and then wind the studs out. They are too close to the tin wall in front of the flywheel for my stud extractor so I had to use a couple of nuts locked together. It was a fiddle.

I then had to refresh (i.e. clean-up and re-apply) the RTV and try again. Success this time.

It's easy when you don't have a gearbox attached .

Eventually, most of the underside was re-assembled, but I had a decision to make about the front cover with its foam rubber lining. I gave it a good wash with de-greaser but after three days hanging in the sun (and dripping overnight) it was still soaking. No wonder these sumps rust.

I decided to remove the old, perished rubber and put the plastic back on as a sump guard. Fortunately the rubber peeled off quite easily.

Somehow I don't think I'll miss the sound deadening.

Then came the job of re-fitting the ARB. This would be easy if it wasn't squeezed in between the chassis and the torsion bars, what a fiddly job. While I was at it I replaced the bushes on the bar and the drop links.

Tomorrow I'll replace the cross member that supports the front diff/axle - the paint should be dry by then .

Then its on with the service and replacing the front wings, did I say that cars rust up here ???

Bob.

 

[Andy]

A few final bits before our trip in a couple of weeks, made up a ply panel to shut in the rear window to duct the webasto to the roof tent, used boiler plume pipe & fittings, just push them together when parking up for the night, and fitted the temperature sensor in the tent to control the webasto.
Should be nice & toasty up there!

 

[BobMurphy]

I finally finished the sump replacement by re-attaching the cross member and torque arm.

The new ARB and Drop Link bushes look OK, but a fiddle to fit thanks to the Torsion Bars.

I lowered the truck from the ramps, replaced the oil filter and filled it with oil. Next job is to change the air and diesel filters before firing it up.

Then it will be oil changes for the Auto Box, Transfer Box and Axles.

Must strip out the brakes and check them over as well.

And so it goes on.

Changing the sump wasn't as bad as I'd feared, but its still a long and messy job.

Bob.

 

[Bob]

Consulted the local Toyota Parts Department (the shelving unit in my shed) for fluids

Changed out the transfer box and gearbox oils. Think the T/box may have had the wrong oil as it was running too hot.

Went in through the top for filling the gearbox as @BobMurphy does after getting bored with crawling under with 200ml at a time in a dosing bottle for the transfer box.

 

[Andy]

I use a pump up garden type sprayer without the nozzle, just open end of pipe, for filling my diff / transfer oils, much easier!

 

[BobMurphy]

Went in through the top for filling the gearbox as @BobMurphy does after getting bored with crawling under with 200ml at a time in a dosing bottle for the transfer box.

Not any more - I bought one of these oil pumps a couple of years ago. It makes life much easier .

Highly recommended.

Bob.

 

[Bob]

That's something to put on the list... it's a very long list of things I'd like to have to make jobs easier! But as we've just ordered a new kitchen, and given our builder the go ahead on a renovation project, there's no money for shed things for a while!

 

[Animal Mother]

This weekend my 120 will be getting:

• All discs changed
• All pads changed
• Oil and filter change
• Water pump change
• Thermostat change
• Coolant flush and replace
• Timing belt
• Aux belt

Start packing and loading for Spain trip.

 

[Chris]

24 brand new genuine wheels studs, all new wheel nuts, all wheel bearings repacked and set, rear caliper rebuild, handbrake reset, greased props, changed engine oil and filter, checked all diffs and manual transmission, topped up water tank, cleaned out the fridge, changed to Muds, charged the Optima on the CTEK and reset the Victron to 100%. Applied mission decals.

Still lots to do though.

 

[joinerman]

And what did you do after dinner Chris ?

 

[Animal Mother]

This weekend my 120 will be getting:

• All discs changed
• All pads changed
• Oil and filter change
• Water pump change
• Thermostat change
• Coolant flush and replace
• Timing belt
• Aux belt

Start packing and loading for Spain trip.

This weekend I only managed Oil, filter, pump, belts and coolant from that list. The thermostat was just too difficult (shame on you Mr T!) so that got left (it was a "nice to do" only).

However, I also managed to service the spare wheel carrier, de-rust the rear axle and associated components and treat with Krown, grease the prop, top up the deep cycle battery and prep the "bash plates" for paint. I also too k the rear (2nd row) seats out and started packing for Spain. There's tons of room in the back of a 120 without the seats.

 

[Gary820]

Few bits done recently, washer bottle kept emptying, pipe to the headlamp washers was leaking under the right side battery tray, stripped out and new pipe fitted.

Leaking sliding window sorted.

New viscous fan, new rad hoses and a head gasket after it properly over heated!!!! Valve clearances checked while there and all in spec, New spark plugs and ignition timing set up again after the strip.

Just got front control arm bushes to do, rear wheel bearing strip/re grease and a few other items to go through.

New front tyre on the Beemer today as got a puncture near the sidewall quick way to spend £157!

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Changed over the anti roll bar bushes as the last of the underside bush changes now. Pretty easy job just greasy lol