Back on the 100's sump today (you still awake at the back ??). Getting these things off can be a pain, and this was no exception. I started by pushing a small flexible steel scraper into the joint and then tapping it along with a hammer. It was going OK but I was running out of hammer room. At the rear, there isn't enough room for the scraper between the back on the sump and front of the bell housing - so I resorted to (an old) screwdriver and the hammer. Eventually I got the screwdriver in a bit and then gave it a mighty heave . . . . There was a "Slurp . . Bong" sort of noise and it came loose. After that it took no time to release the front, which slid out from under the cross-member. It looked very clean inside and I couldn't see any holes . . . Hmmmmm I hope I haven't just wasted my time . The next job was to remove the oil level sensor and prep it for fitting to the new sump. A wash down with Kerosene and a scrub with a stiff paintbrush cleared the dirt. It is screwed into a mounting that is fixed to the sump. It came out cleanly and looks fine. I'll use some 'Blue Hylomar' on the old rubber seal just in case. I was curious about the leaks so cleaned the whole sump pan with hot water and industrial cleaner then knocked off the rust. I hadn't appreciated (until Chris pointed it out) that the sump is double-skinned. The outer skin has rusted through in a few places and the inner has become perforated as well. The oil seems to be finding its way between the skins. A few holes (once the rust has been scraped away): More holes than a Swiss cheese . Maybe I didn't waste my £250 on the new sump after all (that's an Amayama discount price from UAE). Tomorrow I'll clean the face of the block and fit the new sump. Then, as the best books say, "Assembly is the reverse procedure" . I drained the oil five days ago - but its still dripping, that's why I'm in no hurry to move forward - I don't want oil in the joint . Hopefully a happy ending next time . Bob.