Cooling the 1KZ-TE motor:

[jbecks]

if you want to see if you have any hot spots, you could buy an infa red temperature gauge to see if there is any big variation of temperatures, we used them to help diagnosing faults in a similar way on hydraulic circuits. The actual temperature reading is not as importing your looking for variation.

 

[McLean Racing]

Kinda worried now as i bought my LC90 on christmas eve with the sole perpose of using it to tow a big box trailer for racing. Im only doing 20 mile trips with it but i defo dont want the hasstle of cracking the head/block

 

[Doodle]

There's a big difference between a drag bike and associated paraphernalia, and 3 tons of heavy trailer and plant equipment

Keep the cooling system up to scratch and it'll be fine. Is yours auto or manual?

 

[McLean Racing]

There's a big difference between a drag bike and associated paraphernalia, and 3 tons of heavy trailer and plant equipment

Keep the cooling system up to scratch and it'll be fine. Is yours auto or manual?

Mines is a 3.0 Manual. Trailer is around 500kgs we think, 2 bikes + pit ped add another 500kgs, plus tool cabs, etc. In all i dont think we will be towing more than 1500kgs but if i need to tow with my brothers drift car in it then we looking at closer to 2000kgs

 

[Doodle]

Manual means no loss of rad space to transmission cooler, and no risk of coolant/ATF mixing either. Good news

 

[McLean Racing]

Manual means no loss of rad space to transmission cooler, and no risk of coolant/ATF mixing either. Good news

Thats good to hear, ive still got alot to learn about these things lol Im a bike guy at heart lol

 

[Shayne]

Thats good to hear, ive still got alot to learn about these things lol Im a bike guy at heart lol

Well just so you know you have bought what is more or less a 4x4 gixer , that is to say bomb and bullet proof . A 7/11 GSXR streetfighter was the one i always wanted but never got .

 

[Beau]

In general once you keep your cooling system in top shape you'll be fine towing and doing other stuff. Saying that, there are cases such as myself where my cruiser was in top condition and the head went out of no where, and so my theory is when the engine gets hot when you initially call for that extra power say up a hill for example, the thermostat is too late to react to the sudden temperature rise and by time it opens and the water starts to circulate temperatures in the head have shot sky high and it's too late.

On the other hand, a lot of Hiace guys think the Exhaust gases being too hot are the reason why the head gets too hot and cracks. So many theories but nothing solid yet... I do think if you're planning on keeping your truck long enough and push the cruiser to it's limits then a aftermarket exhaust and intercooler, as well as a external cooler (for autos) are worth it, plus you gain that performance gain as well.

 

[McLean Racing]

These do not have an intercooler as standard then?

 

[Shayne]

D4D probably has Beau's got a 1KZ same as me and i've not long fitted a D4D cooler to mine .

 

[Beau]

All D4D models have a intercooler standard, a few imported 1KZT-E models had them fitted but it's rare here in the UK. I think the main market for the intercooled models were Australia and hotter climates.

 

[jbecks]

In general once you keep your cooling system in top shape you'll be fine towing and doing other stuff. Saying that, there are cases such as myself where my cruiser was in top condition and the head went out of no where.

I wonder if you actually suffered a failed HG? which caused the head to warp, after all these engines do have a cast iron block with alloy head and the temperature gauge is not the fastest at reacting to temperature changes.

 

[username_11]

For the EGT sensor did you just drill and tap the manifold?

Was it difficult to do?

yep really easy, it's a nice bit of metal to drill and tap. do it with the engine running to keep the swarf out

 

[username_11]

if you want to see if you have any hot spots, you could buy an infa red temperature gauge to see if there is any big variation of temperatures, we used them to help diagnosing faults in a similar way on hydraulic circuits. The actual temperature reading is not as importing your looking for variation.

i mean hot spots actually inside of the head itself, around the combustion chamber or the small waterway between the valves for example. if any spot inside the head gets hot enough for the coolant to boil or get close it'll create a bubble, that spot will stop being cooled and get hotter, probably lead to a ruined head.

 

[Ben]

yep really easy, it's a nice bit of metal to drill and tap. do it with the engine running to keep the swarf out

Perfect, thanks mate.

 

[TimB]

would be interesting to see some info from a top mounted thermostat set up though

I've invested in a meziere hi flow in line thermostat housing and a 170f hi flow thermostat (76.6 c). I figure that's hot enough to keep good combustion going, but cool enough to allow for the odd turbo induced heat spike, without overheating the head. I'm going to splice this in to the top rad pipe. Then remove the centre out of the existing stat, which will restrict the flow a little, but not much, at the bottom hose end.
My thinking is that the head water temp then controls the stat opening, rather than the residual heat in the block, which seems to cause the pulsing cooling that I've read a lot about on this and other forums.
Reason is I've got to tow 2.5 tons on a 250 mile trip, once a week for four weeks. So I will let you know how I get on.
I'm thinking a transmission cooler is also good advice as I'm 3.0 auto as well as overhauling the fan, although contemplating going all electric fan on a sensor.

Thanks again guys for all your useful feedback

 

[Trevor]

Probably the simplest and cheapest first step is to invest in an after market digital water temp gauge just like Ben did in his 70 (which has a 1KZT engine conversion), this way you can see what is really going on with your water temp way before the original temp gauge will react, if you see you've got temp issues then start the more expensive mods. Ben, any chance of reposting the link to your gauge?

 

[David]

I have just fitted this to mine

http://www.coolantalarm.co.uk/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=26

 

[Ben]

My overheating issue are finally sorted!

Fitting an electric fan caused nothing but problems, reverting back to the viscous fan has fixed it! Today I did a lot of hill climbs in low 1st, and I mean a lot!! Then I drove for 4 hours to get home averaging 65-70mph all the way, and all this in 34 degree heat!

Probably the simplest and cheapest first step is to invest in an after market digital water temp gauge just like Ben did in his 70 (which has a 1KZT engine conversion), this way you can see what is really going on with your water temp way before the original temp gauge will react, if you see you've got temp issues then start the more expensive mods. Ben, any chance of reposting the link to your gauge?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-T...urement_Equipment_ET&var=&hash=item1c2be9c1df

I've had it fitted for a few years now and have been very pleased with it.

When the head temp reaches 45 degrees the standard gauge moves to half way. The standard gauge wont then move again until the head gets over 90 degrees! Thats how grossly inaccurate the standard gauge is!

When the standard gauge reaches the red the engine is already overheating and has been for some time.

 

[froggy Steve]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-T...urement_Equipment_ET&var=&hash=item1c2be9c1df

I've had it fitted for a few years now and have been very pleased with it.

When the head temp reaches 45 degrees the standard gauge moves to half way. The standard gauge wont then move again until the head gets over 90 degrees! Thats how grossly inaccurate the standard gauge is!

When the standard gauge reaches the red the engine is already overheating and has been for some time.

Hi Ben, just ordered one but noticed that is just has a 'non screw in' sensor - how did you fit yours? Was is easy or can a thickie do it
Steve