Fiery

[froggy Steve]

I need to give 'er indoors a figure to stop thrashing the gonads off the (my) truck! Highest I have had so far is 94, after a thrash uphill, but in the summer that may well go up - this according to the DRO temp gauge, with sensor bolted to front of the head - I know, a bit paranoid,

Finished with my woman 'cause she couldn't help me with my mind
people think I'm insane because I am frowning all the time
All day long I think of things but nothing seems to satisfy
Think I'll lose my mind if I don't find something to pacify

 

[sae70]

It could be higher than 100 Degrees in there as the cooling system is under pressure! From speaking to Trevor and talking about the damage it sounds as though somehow and probably due to overheating caused by an unknown fault the engine combustion has entered the cooling system causing enough pressure to split the top tank on the rad quickly emptying an already over temp cooling system, heat seizing the engine and snapping the cam belt!!! Unless a lot has been lost in the Anglo/French translation. I'm not sure that Trevor had the French correct for 'So has the cam belt snapped then?' In reply the French mechanic said 'Clank, Clank, Clank!!!'. I'm starting to consider some kind of early warning myself of impending engine doom, but can't decide if the best temperature to monitor is water or if its the engine oil temp or the EGT or a combination of all three?! As said this could have all occurred as the result of something as mundane as a faulty stat a leaky rad or split cooling hose. Such a shame I'm delighted that you and your sister are committed to repairing Fiery as opposed to scrapping her out for spares! Although by the end of it you may need to be committed as we all should be for the time and money we all spend when the cards are on the table. So many times over the years I've almost just flicked a burning match into the fuel tank of one of my vehicles! Lol Chin up chaps it'll all so soon be a distant memory

 

[Towpack]

In a pressurised system, typically around 1 bar, the boiling point of the coolant will be approaching 120c, assuming it's water based. Up to that point the pressure simply forces coolant into the expansion tank. Some of the non-water based coolants (silicone based I believe) will take the boiling point to way above that, effectively eliminating the threat of a boil over but the engine won't run any cooler. With a boil over and resultant coolant loss the engine effectively has no cooling so the oil temp will soar rapidly past the point of thermal breakdown but I would think this would be over 200C. Aluminium melts at 660c/1220F. Pistons are an aluminium alloy so will have a higher durability but not by much. Running EGT's of 1350F and above for extended periods can turn the pistons mushy. Personally I'm uncomfortable running temps above 1200F on long hill climbs etc. JMO

 

[Paddler Ed]

To make you feel better:

That's how much came out of my blown Head Gasket via the back of the LH cylinder bank on a 3VZE last night...

 

[Beau]

I'm surprised the hose didn't burst, and the actual Radiator did?

 

[clivehorridge]

When my rad failed, it split the seam on the plastic top tank, over a length of about 10cm. Advised not reparable, I replaced it!

Who knows what caused it. I blame myself for not keeping a close enough eye on coolant level. Once replaced, the rad has never overheated, nor has it lost coolant. I got away with no damage to the head gasket. Although the gauge went to max, I caught it in time before the engine itself overheated.

Maybe one of the advantages of being a non-turbo, not so much heat being generated by the engine in the first place.

 

[sae70]

I just bought one for myself this morning, can't imagine it's going to be any good as it was only £8.78 delivered!!!

 

[Trevor]

I have the same one, instructions are pants but below is what you need to do.

Pins 1 and 2 are for the relay and I intend to have a 12v feed into pin 1, the output of pin 2 will be connected to a 2 wire 12v buzzer of some description with the 2nd wire of the buzzer connected to earth.


I might put a switch between pin 2 and the buzzer so it can be silenced.


To program the gauge just follow these steps.


Press SET for 3 seconds - HC should now be displayed
Press SET then the UP or DOWN arrow until display changes to C (this puts it into cooling mode - i.e. will close the relay when the desired temp is reached)


Now to setup your desired trigger temp


Press SET for 3 seconds - HC should now be displayed
Press the UP or DOWN arrow until LS is displayed
Press SET
Press UP or DOWN arrows to set your trigger temperature like 80 degrees or whatever.

 

[Chas]

I have the same one too, Had it for ages but not got round to installing yet, thanks for the instructions Trevor I'm sure they will be needed.

 

[clivehorridge]

I have the same one too, Had it for ages but not got round to installing yet, thanks for the instructions Trevor I'm sure they will be needed.

If you can't find it Chas, it's probably next to the reversing camera, you can't find!

 

[Chas]

If you can't find it Chas, it's probably next to the reversing camera, you can't find!

Nah! I've got the temp meter sitting here on the desk in front of me. Reversing camera? that can stay lost for the time being, I've just bought another one, wireless this time.

 

[Ben]

I just bought one for myself this morning, can't imagine it's going to be any good as it was only £8.78 delivered!!!

View attachment 12833

I've been using mine for a couple of years now and its bloody awesome!

Amazing for the price! I'm tempted to buy another encase mine ever does stop working.

 

[fridayman]

I'm starting to consider some kind of early warning myself of impending engine doom, but can't decide if the best temperature to monitor is water or if its the engine oil temp or the EGT or a combination of all three?!

All of them are handy, but if I was only fitting one... actually I have only fitted one... the EGT gauge - it's closest to the source of the heat and gives me instant feedback i.e. if my foot presses the pedal deeper, I can see the temp go up straight away (and vice versa).

 

[Trevor]

I'm surprised the hose didn't burst, and the actual Radiator did?

 

[silvercruiser]

I thought the Rad Cap's designed to lift at 0.9ish Bar to prevent this

 

[sae70]

Wow! Look at that! Interestingly you can buy the top of the rad as a spare pert from Toyota.

 

[Charlie]

A few years back I had the plastic header tank split on a HZJ79 Pickup, but luckily the engine was ok.

 

[yogi]

I thought the Rad Cap's designed to lift at 0.9ish Bar to prevent this

In theory it is,however the cap can fail. They corrode over time, and I wonder what the constant heating and cooling does to the flexibility of the metal spring. I suppost that is why they are available to buy separate from a rad?

As for the plastic parts of the rad, well they have a lifespan too and become more brittle over time.

 

[Trevor]

Started work on Fiery today, stripped a few bit out.


This was the crack in the rad



A bit of space to work in now





Replacement engine from Stef



New water pump and timing belt kit put on, amazing how quick when the engine is out.



Done most of the disconnections on the engine, final bit of loom near the bulkhead on passenger side needs doing along with the PAS but will carry on tomorrow. Engine should come out Sat all being well.

 

[clivehorridge]

Almost half way Trevor...