LJ78 Build Thread

[Iwan]

Thanks mate.

Great minds think a like.

I decided a couple of days ago to put the 78 loom back together and refit it in the 78 and I ordered a manual fuel pump for the 2lt that I've fitted in the RJ70.

I'm a bit worried about getting the 1KZ-T to work with the 78 loom though as on the 78 loom all the engine sensors are wired through the ECU which I'm going to remove.

All good, I used this to sort mine out, it's mostly the wires on the 12 pin ecu connector on the right . For the taco and pump solenoid I left 4 wires that ran originally from the 2lte engine bay harness (injection pump area) the one ignition switch +ve for the pump solenoid 2nd row 3rd from left and 2 for the taco pump sender on the injection pump.
The glow relay activator top right.... +ve for the amount of time you need glow
Your starter relay activator wire is on the middle block 1st row 5th terminal and need to hook up to the keyed (starting +ve) feed. It's close by.
If I recall T is the temp on the instrument cluster the 2lte temp wire runs straight to the same temp outlet on the 1kzt.e... Been a while since looking into this..
Just the oil pressure gauge after, back from by the alternator wiring on the other side of the engine and to the OTS wire on the middle ecu outlet.

As said been a few months since I spent loads of time working this out so worth sharing the info. I was amazed that I got everything working on the instrument cluster!!!

If someone with a kzj 90 who goes manual fueling would have to do a very similar procedure.. Just get rid of those damn wires and sensors!! LOL

 

[Ben]

Awesome!!!!!

Thanks heaps man, that should help enormously!

Hoping to get stuck into this project very soon.

The RJ70 is getting really close to being finished now, if I could get a full day or 2 on it I think it would be ready to sell. Then it can be moved out of the garage and I can get properly stuck into this one!

Its torture having to work on the other one when all I really want to be doing is getting this one finished and back on the road!

But the sale of the other one should free up a good chunk of cash for this one, which I can put towards: the respray, window tints, all new lights, stainless 3" mandrel bent exhaust, set of 33" BFG tyres, ARB roof rack, side awning, Rear bumper, rock sliders with bush bars, fridge slide, drawer system, water tank and long range fuel tank.

 

[Paddler Ed]

Makes yours look cheap:
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Landcruiser-/252790794181?nav=SEARCH

(sorry for the mobile link, in Tassie at the moment on a 3 week holiday!)

 

[Ben]

Yeah definitely!

That one hasnt got a rear diff lock either and its an auto.

Had mine not been so abused by previous owners and given such a terrible paint job the previous owner would have got a lot more for it.

I was lucky to get mine though, I was there bang on the time the guy said he would be home and I had only been looking at it for 2 minutes when another potential buyer turned up.

 

[Ben]

BTW be good if you could do a trip report when you get back mate.

 

[Ben]

I've been busy designing the setup for the rear of the 78.

Thinking I will have one of these 55 litre water tanks behind the rear seats.

https://4wdindustries.com.au/poly-water-50lt-taper-wtp50t.html

Then I will build a ply wood false floor that I will cover in marine carpet. Mounted on top of it will be my Engel fridge on a Piranha fridge slide on the passenger side.

Then on the other side will be 2 drawers, one above the other. But the drawers wont come out as far as the fridge as I want to keep some of the boot floor free, for 2 reasons, firstly to allow me to access to the underbody storage box mounted in the floor.
And 2 to give me a handy space for putting bags of fire wood etc. and a useful flat area for preparing food, changing nappies etc.

I'm thinking I will buy some heavy duty drawer runners and mount the drawers that way and I'm thinking of making the drawer boxes from either folded alluminium or ply wood, which ever will be lightest.

The bottom drawer will be for recovery gear, tools and spare parts.

The top drawer will be for all the food and cooking gear.

Then above the drawers and fridge will be one large shelf over the whole lot, which will come up to roughly the height of the rear seats.

I'm tempted to build a cargo barrier to go from the top of the shelf to the roof of the car, but I want to make it easily removable and just fit it for big trips away or when the boot is full.

Above the water tank, in the space between the back of the rear seats and back of the drawer system/fridge I will mount the hi-lift jack.

 

[Paddler Ed]

Being back on the road has got me thinking about our setup, we just run bags and boxes in the boot of the 4Runner, which also keeps in the weight range of the vehicle easily instead of having a lot of fixed heavy stuff... That meant when we went into Hobart we just emptied the car of everything (2x mountain bikes, 2x 20 litre fuel cans, 1x 25 litre water drum, the esky and anything else we didn't need)

A fixed drawer system would stop me running with the bikes upright in the back of the car, which would then make it harder in other respects (where does $5k + of bikes go?!)

We've seen the custom made systems (6mm ply in a T shape) work well in a SWB Grand Vitara, and a proper drawer system in a Prado. My other problem is Delz is only 5', and the 4Runner lower tailgate gets in the way of her reaching into things in the back if its too far in, which is why I'd like a Pov pack 80 like Clive's with the barn doors.

 

[StarCruiser]

Lynn's 5' too and she would have trouble getting anything out the back of my 80.

Drawer system has been designed and is out for quoting made from ally with plywood fronts. Sounds like I've had most of the thoughts you've had during my design plus a few more as mine will be a bit different. I've elected to have fridge slide in the left plus two slim shorter drawers in the middle one above the other then a kitchenette drawer with drawers above and below. The short drawers allow for water storage behind. I also have drawers front and back to access some items from behind the seats. It will also marry up with the rear of the gullwings.

 

[Ben]

I think everything is a compromise when customising a 4wd and as every ones needs are different, there is no one perfect setup.

Adding a drawer system obviously adds weight and you loose boot space, which in your case Ed, would have been impractical for your needs.

I learnt a lot from my last build (LJ) and theres a few things I was determined to do differently on this build.

1. As I never intended on having a fridge when I originally built my drawer system, all those years ago in England. I fitted the fridge on top of the drawer system on a very heavy 25-30kg MSA drop slide. This was bad because it added a lot of weight, very high up (not a good thing in a swb unstable 4wd).
It was also a pain having to lower the fridge down every time you wanted something out of it.

So with this build I'm determined the fridge will go as low down as possible on a nice simple, normal fridge slide.

2. With the last build the drawer system filled the entire boot of the vehicle (well from just behind the front seats to the back doors actually). Meaning anything heavy that got loaded into the vehicle had to be lifted up high.

So with this build I want to leave a section of floor between the drawers and back doors left empty, where I can put a bag of heavy fire wood/car parts/make lunch etc.

3. Water! I got sick of lifting water jerry cans in and out of the vehicle and then having to pour them into bottles/bowls/pans etc.

So with this build I want a proper water tank sitting nice and low, just above the rear axle, with a plumbed in tap just inside the rear doors so that water is easy to get to and use.

4. No silly swing away wheel or jerry can holders on the rear bumper! Having the swing away wheel carrier on the rear bumper, although necessary at one time to carry the big heavy 37" spare tyre, was a bloody pain. Especially when camping.
I also feel it must have had a negative effect on road handling due to having all that weight mounted right off the back of the chassis.

With this build I want it to be as practical as possible, so I dont want to have to swing anything out of the way, before I can open the rear doors, the spare will stay on the rear door as Toyota intended.

5. And finally, practicality and versatility. The last build started out as an all out off road toy, thats all it was. Then it evolved into more of a camping/overland vehicle and due to the size of it that meant filling it up with drawers and racks and storage devices, which while they worked reasonably well, they meant the vehicle couldnt be used for much else.

With no back seats, a drawer system, 90litre internally mounted aux fuel tank, with a fridge/fridge slide, water can holders and a below roof storage cage, there was very little room left to carry or store anything. There was certainly no room for passengers and barely enough room for the dog.

So with this build I want to make it and keep it as practical as possible. OK its lost its rear 2 seats in the boot, but it will always keep the rear bench seat so will always be able to carry 5 people. I wont be completely filling the boot space and I dont intend for the storage system/fridge/water tank etc. to go above the height of the rear seats, so longer things can always be carried if necessary.

But above all I want to make our camping/overland trips easier and more enjoyable with a lot less setup time and with a well thought out, designed vehicle I think this will be very possible and I'm really excited about this build.

 

[StarCruiser]

I'm quite chuffed. Looks like I've been paying attention. Everything you have said I have considered and put into the system I am hoping to build, with the addition of being able to remove the whole lot on a big slide that I already have installed with my tools in. I may even renew and update my tools storage, which I was going to swap out for the 'camper pod'.

I'll possibly also have an extendible base on top that will enable us to sleep on top albeit a bit high up.

 

[Ben]

So I finally got to spend some time on the 78 this week!

I picked up a new spray gun to replace the crappy cheap one I had.

As well as a 240v sander so that I dont have to use my air one to sand the 78 down, as my compressor is so small I can only sand for 30 seconds before the tanks empty and the sander looses power.

The bonnet is being replaced anyway so I had a little play with the sander to see how easy the blue primer and rattle can black below is to sand off.

Came off very easily and only took a few minutes so I'm thinking an entire day should be enough time to sand the whole car down ready for the paint shop.

I just need to be careful on the edges of curves/sharp angles as I took the paint off down to bare metal on the edge of the curve on the bonnet.

I pulled 2 of the window strips off from the drivers side so I could have a go at cleaning them up.

The most annoying thing is is that these pop off in about 5 seconds with a flat scraper under them, so there really isnt any excuse for the previous owners to have painted them!

I found some steel wool followed by a rag soaked in thinners seemed to work quite well at cleaning them up.

I pulled the rest of the old exhaust off so I could use it in on RJ.

My plan is to make a 3" exhaust system for this vehicle out of stainless steel, mandrel bends.

I pulled the rear mud flaps and bumper corners off.

This revealed the rust hole on the passenger side.

Its also bubbling a little bit further along too.

But the other side is perfect, no rust at all.

I need to cut out and repair the rust before I get the whole thing resprayed.

I also need to design and build a new rear bumper and I'm thinking of making it in a very similar size and shape to the original one, so I can re-fit the standard rear mud flaps, once I've cleaned them up.

But I wont be attaching it to the body work like the original one and I will leave a slight gap between it and the bodywork so I can hose off any mud and keep it clean.

I might make it out of alluminium so it doesnt end up being too heavy.

I removed the rear number plate light so I can look at cleaning it up, but I'm thinking I will have to sand it back and repaint it black with silver lettering, as it left the factory.

I had a delivery!

Box inside a box.

I was most impressed with how Mr Muso had packaged up my glass!

Hats off to Megazip.net, the service was spot on!

They may be slightly more expensive than their rival Amayama, but they will post glass, unlike their rival and the whole shopping experience was a lot easier and less stressful. I'd definitely recommend them!

I refitted the wiring loom.

Followed by the aircon and heating.

Cleaned the dash up.

And found some much better speakers to fit in place of the factory originals.

Bolted the speakers into the dash and fitted the dash.

I dont want to loose this center pod as I quite like to know what the temps are.

But I need to fit my other dash pod, that I had in LJ, with my boost, EGT and aux fuel tang gauge in. So my plan is to move this one along a bit towards the passenger side and fit the other one in its place. So I will have 2.

I found a replacement, straight steering bar out of my spares hoard and discovered that not only are the earlier, round headlight 70's steering bars longer, their also made of much thicker tube.

I always presumed they were the same, the axles are the same length, so maybe the pitman arm on the steering box is different.

I've found some nice thick walled steam pipe at work with a perfect 26mm internal diameter. So my next job is to sleeve and strengthen a standard steering bar as they bend so easily.

On LJ I bent my first one just trying to steer out of ruts!

 

[Paddler Ed]

Not attaching the bumper to the bodywork is a good idea... When I sort out my rear bumper I've got to fix the RHS where it found a concrete post... Bumper had a small dent and is off square, but it also pushed the bodywork around a bit.

 

[doyle61]

Ben if you can get the use of a sandblasting unit I found they bring the plastic and rubber trim up like new. Might save you a bit of elbow greece

 

[Victor]

Good Job!

And i had a look at megazip. SO. MUCH. THINGS. Holy shit! I mean, one could order a brand new frame if they wanted to!

 

[Ben]

Thanks guys.

Ben if you can get the use of a sandblasting unit I found they bring the plastic and rubber trim up like new. Might save you a bit of elbow greece

Thats a good idea and I recently bought one too.

What sort of blasting medium have you found works best?

 

[doyle61]

Far as I know it was sand but when I was blasting the plastic I turned the pressure down. If you look at the headlight washers in my thread you can see before and after

 

[Ben]

Progress has been very slow on this build over the last few weeks as I've been busy working on the RJ70, getting it ready to sell.

But I did get the reinforced steering bar built!

First job was to remove the tierod ends from my spare steering bar. These proved to be seized solid and took a lot of force to undo.

Eventually though I got one both ends removed.

I found a piece of pipe at work that was the perfect size for this job!

And looking through my bolt box I found 2 x M25 nuts.

These fitted perfectly over the thread on the tierod ends.

I put them in the vice on the drill press and drilled them out with a 25mm blacksmiths drill bit, so the tube would fit through them.

Cut the tube to length on the coldcut saw.

And assembled the tube and nuts ready for welding.

The nuts will mean I never have to use a big stilson wrench again when adjusting the wheel alignment, as that tool digs in and would damage the face of the tube, instead I will be able to use a big spanner or 2. I will also coat the threads with never seize when I fit the tie rod ends.

Welded it altogether.

Gave the tube a quick rub over with some emery paper and the red oxide primer came off easily.

I then dropped it off at my local electro platers who were very happy to do a cash job.

It will match my Superior Engineering adjustable panhard rods nicely and should mean years of rust free service.

I'm still planning my interior fit out and I'm still undecided as to whether or not I will add a fold down table to the rear door.

I spotted this one recently that I quite like, the guy used piano hinges instead of the traditional rope/cord to support it when its folded down.

I cant wait to get the RJ70 finished so I can get properly stuck into this one!

I've got 5 days off over Easter and 4 days off the following weekend so I'm hoping thats when I can get the engine fitted and start building the exhaust.

 

[Paddler Ed]

Seeing your shelf idea, and tidying up all my bookmarks got me thinking...

When I made my kitchen for the trailer I did a fair bit of searching and thinking, and one thing that we liked was having something that was easy to pack - we used to use a box that had all the camp kitchen stuff in it, and took the other 2 pans we stole from the kitchen easily.

Extending that, what about a Wannigan type kitchen? REI from the USA had a really nice one they've done all the design work for (plus a cutting list/destructions) and would be easy for someone of your skill to make in either wood or ali.

 

[Ben]

Thanks Ed, gives me more ideas to think about.

As you know we tend to just cook on the fire when we go camping, but there will be occasions when we cant have fires.

So I'm thinking of getting one of the small Weber Baby Q BBQ's that we could take with us on those trips. Just got to see how I can fit it into the boot of the car.

I think it will be more practical for us than the traditional camping gas stove and you can also cook roasts and cakes in them.

 

[StarCruiser]

Nice link there Pat. Looks like I'm doing something vaguely similar.