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RJ70 Build Thread.

Ben Aug 29, 2016

  1. Paddler Ed

    Paddler Ed Well-Known Member I am in australia

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    Oh well; I got my bits from him as it was easiest when we did the extractors (he was cheapest for them), and then the cat back was via him as well and he custom bent it for me without even having the car there.
     
  2. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    All good mate. :icon-wink:

    I priced all the bits up in stainless off ebay and it came to about $500, for a 2.5" system to the first silencer, then 3" from there back with one more small rear silencer. :think:

    Then I did some more searching and found these guys:

    http://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/

    Their even cheaper and they have much more range in terms of mandrel bends, I can get 30, 40, 60, 90 and 180 degree bends from them as well as the tube and rear muffler. :dance:

    Only thing they dont seem to have is stainless steel flanges so I will get those from ebay as I want to keep it all stainless and rust free. :icon-cool:

    As soon as the alluminium tube I've ordered has been delivered I can finish modifying the oil filter housing and get an update up. :thumbup:
     
  3. StarCruiser

    StarCruiser Well-Known Member Guru I am in uk

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    Might be more expensive Ben but have a quick look on RS Components at their stainless mandrel bends. I think they come under Milk Tube or something. My local fabricators use them and have said they are cheap but we may be talking apples and oranges as I think they may be a bit thick on the wall compared to what you are looking at.
     
  4. Paddler Ed

    Paddler Ed Well-Known Member I am in australia

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    So what are running from each bank to the union?

    On the 4Runner we have 2" from each bank into 2.5" at the cat and through from there to a large silencer (muffler) - we got one that is about 10" x 6" x 20" in dimension
     
  5. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    Thanks mate. :thumbup:

    Yeah bit too thick and postage might be expensive. :)

    The manifold exit pipes are 2.5" so I will keep it 2.5" for the front section.

    Plan is 2 x flexi pipes after the manifolds, then some mandrel bends to my stainless steel silencer, which I already have left over from LJ when I realised diesels dont really need silencers.

    From there it will be a 3" system. I'm going to build the front section first and see how loud it is and then decide whether to fit a rear silencer or not.

    Just need to invest a few hundred dollars in 3x 2.5" mandrel bends, 2 x flexi's, a pair of flanges and a meter of tube. :icon-biggrin:
     
  6. StarCruiser

    StarCruiser Well-Known Member Guru I am in uk

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    If I'm not mistaken, I think RS covers Oz. Not sure about delivery though but in the U.K. It's free next day. Useful for other bits perhaps but I suspected they would be too heavy.
     
  7. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    Airbox.

    I've been looking at what I can do airbox wise. Whether I could use the Lexus one, the Lj70 one RJ came with, or a combination of the 2.

    This is the standard Lexus one.

    IMG_4198_zpsbmfc9vbx.jpg

    It wouldnt fit and it didnt look like I could get the LJ one to work either, thankfully the Lexus airbox easily unbolts from the sensor, leaving a nice flat mounting surface to mount to a custom airbox.

    IMG_4200_zpsiop7kagn.jpg

    IMG_4201_zpstgtpa4e1.jpg

    IMG_4202_zpsgajj0w9w.jpg

    IMG_4204_zpsxsw2umtg.jpg

    IMG_4205_zps3oczxzio.jpg

    So I'm going to design and build a custom alluminium air box to fit in this space.

    IMG_4374_zpsav4glifk.jpg

    IMG_4375_zpsf1fg4mwx.jpg

    Power Steering Pipes.

    I needed to connect my power steering pipes to the new engine mounted pump. Only issue was that the 1UZ has the pump mounted on the opposite side as the 2lt.

    IMG_4207_zpss8rbnuh6.jpg

    The 2lt reservoir was mounted on the passenger side.

    IMG_4208_zpshcmedohw.jpg

    Where as the 1UZ is on the engine on the drivers side.

    IMG_4209_zpso3c4nikm.jpg

    I wanted to avoid the expense and unsightliness of getting custom pipes made and fitted to swap back over to the other side.

    So I managed to re-bend the standard pipes and re-plumb it all to work. Hopefully it will still have enough cooling capacity. The other option was to use the cooler built into the bottom of the rad but I'm not keen on that design encase the rad fails.

    IMG_4210_zpsltskrbht.jpg

    Bolted back on and plumbed in.

    IMG_4211_zpsqcv9ysgv.jpg

    IMG_4212_zpspv5tlwa1.jpg

    IMG_4213_zpsm4vnxiqh.jpg

    IMG_4214_zpsmpkboygw.jpg

    IMG_4215_zpsjuaqzc5z.jpg

    IMG_4216_zps9hm5idur.jpg

    IMG_4217_zps3aww1n6b.jpg

    IMG_4218_zpse6xcvdej.jpg

    Gearbox Cross-member.

    I tack welded the thick washers in position on the gearbox cross-member then removed it and fully welded them.

    IMG_4219_zpssbosq8xy.jpg

    IMG_4220_zpsuryrnbj1.jpg

    IMG_4221_zpstnheerlt.jpg

    Painted it.

    IMG_4246_zpsthlueftb.jpg

    IMG_4247_zpsvcncr9bu.jpg

    Re-fitted it.

    IMG_4248_zpss7jkkgjv.jpg

    Mirrors.

    I still wasnt happy with the standard mirrors, they just look wrong! :shifty:

    IMG_4310_zpssoqz67t0.jpg

    Then going through some boxes of spare parts I found what I had been looking for, to allow me to bolt on the new mirrors I bought a few months ago. :dance:

    IMG_4312_zps3y9eaecl.jpg

    And it even had the part number on it (something I had been unable to find on Toyodiy.com) :icon-cool:

    IMG_4313_zpssdivqhjo.jpg

    So now I could finally fit one of my new mirrors!

    IMG_4311_zpsby2wfx3n.jpg

    IMG_4314_zpsld5nhngs.jpg

    IMG_4315_zpsl2cvp4if.jpg

    IMG_4316_zpssqvvfezz.jpg

    IMG_4317_zpsk6ifity0.jpg

    I've ordered another rubber for the other side.

    Fuel Tank.

    I removed the old fuel tank on RJ, complete with 30 litres of diesel still in the bottom.

    IMG_4331_zpsrrlvplsd.jpg

    IMG_4332_zpsnv0pcvli.jpg

    Took it into the garden to clean it and sat it next to the Lexus one.

    IMG_4333_zpsmjf9tbvf.jpg

    Removed the fuel pump from the Lexus one as I want to try and fit it inside the RJ one.

    IMG_4335_zpsaka6uaf9.jpg

    IMG_4334_zpspdedac67.jpg

    Removed all these bits from the Lexus one.

    IMG_4336_zpsnuqu4wwb.jpg

    And these bits from the RJ tank.

    IMG_4337_zpskxxg3hhp.jpg

    This is the Lexus pump that I want to fit into my RJ tank, I've just got to work out how I am going to build a surge bowl in the bottom of the tank to prevent it stalling on hills and the pump running dry which would kill it pretty quick. :think:

    IMG_4345_zps85mpddnf.jpg

    IMG_4346_zpsmqlklxk2.jpg

    Exhaust.

    I've been measuring up underneath RJ for the custom stainless steel mandrel bent system I'm going to design and build.

    IMG_4352_zpseipkvxrk.jpg

    I found making some templates of the mandrel bends very helpful in deciding what to order.

    IMG_4371_zpsevkdfwsq.jpg

    Viscous Fan.

    So this is the viscous fan I found on ebay.

    IMG_4206_zpsvkahtxxj.jpg

    Went and picked it up.

    IMG_4354_zpsvmlzi2br.jpg

    IMG_4355_zpsfgwxi97p.jpg

    Almost identical size to the Lexus one.

    IMG_4356_zpscslgdbs5.jpg

    IMG_4357_zps05ss5ncb.jpg

    The bolt spacings were different though where it mounts on the engine.

    IMG_4358_zpsdb6we3ae.jpg

    So I needed to bolt the new fan blade to my viscous fan.

    IMG_4359_zpsukj6c1km.jpg

    A quick before and after.

    Before.

    IMG_4360_zps7g314h7x.jpg

    After.

    IMG_4361_zpsn6fuweri.jpg

    So I'd gained a good 15-20mm of clearance as the new fan had much less off set than the old one.

    Bolted it back on to the engine.

    IMG_4362_zpspdtpzpqb.jpg

    IMG_4363_zpssfzlbuzl.jpg

    Front panel back on.

    IMG_4364_zps8twrbn6y.jpg

    Rad sat in place.

    IMG_4365_zpsznibfxny.jpg

    IMG_4366_zpssfuvasaa.jpg

    Much better! :dance:

    IMG_4367_zps0vs731by.jpg

    The fan is quite off set to the rad though, so I will have to design and make a custom cowl.

    IMG_4368_zps9erfiuik.jpg

    Timing Belt Change.

    I began stripping the engine down to change the timing belt and refereed to this section in the FSM:

    http://lexus-doc.ru/ileaf/lex91rm/91rmsour/1991rm/91ls400r/em/timingbe.pdf

    And this excellent "How To" on one of the Lexus forums:

    http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

    All was going well.

    IMG_4376_zps3xkwidtm.jpg

    IMG_4378_zpsddwsoexh.jpg

    Until it came time to undo the bottom pulley.

    IMG_4379_zpsomggiq73.jpg

    Torqued to 181ft-lb my 110 volt Hilti rattle gun wouldnt budge it. :doh:

    The FSM says to use a special tool to stop it from turning while you undo it with a breaker bar and then another tool to pull the pulley off once the bolt has been removed.

    I decided to make one tool to do both jobs. :icon-cool:

    Looking through my box of washers I found some nice big hole saw waste pieces that were 8mm thick. (I always keep the waste out of cuts I make with hole saws and chuck them in my washers box).

    IMG_4380_zpsjfpgpqth.jpg

    Got it in the pillar drill and put a 50mm hole through the center of it.

    IMG_4381_zpshchgadip.jpg

    IMG_4382_zpsstvwiwvl.jpg

    Marked, center punched and drilled the 2 x 10mm mounting holes.

    IMG_4383_zpssx12tefc.jpg

    Found some more scrap bits of steel in the bottom of my scrap box.

    IMG_4388_zpslnd4m8ni.jpg

    Didnt even have to cut or bend them, just welded them together.

    IMG_4389_zpsqm0usx1r.jpg

    Welded that to the other bit.

    IMG_4391_zpsqybz2yct.jpg

    Back on to the pillar drill to put a 12mm hole through the top.

    IMG_4392_zpsuknk7e6d.jpg

    Welded a nut on and found an old piece of all thread.

    IMG_4393_zpselcrmaes.jpg

    IMG_4394_zpsfesraj23.jpg

    Bolted my new tool to the pulley on the engine.

    IMG_4395_zpscdnvz8m1.jpg

    IMG_4396_zpsbyjqv3hv.jpg

    Ensured my bottom mark was lined up.

    IMG_4397_zpsfkwhremu.jpg

    As were my top marks.

    IMG_4398_zpsjszdruit.jpg

    Held the tool in place with a big pair of stilsons.

    IMG_4399_zpsgiftb4dn.jpg

    IMG_4400_zpsgwewiqgc.jpg

    And wound the bugger out!

    IMG_4401_zpsgllfpta8.jpg

    Wound the M12 bolt in next to pull the pulley off.

    IMG_4402_zps3lydjqlf.jpg

    And now the timing belt could be changed! :dance:

    IMG_4403_zpsdbif4kmf.jpg

    I need to fit the new belt, tensioner and idler pulleys and put it all back together.

    I need to purchase a bigger torque wrench for that bottom pulley bolt as mine only goes up to 150 ft-lb.

    So going to grab this one on Saturday:

    http://www.totaltools.com.au/tti-1-2-sd-torque-wrench-ard250/i1041413/

    Huge amount still to do but I am making progress. :thumbup:
     
  8. doyle61

    doyle61 Active Member I am in ireland

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    If your not going to be doing serious of roading in RJ, why don't you just put a performance air induction kit on it. It'll look the dogs and help get the most out of the v8 esp when you build the exhaust.
    The build is coming along great btw
     
  9. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    Thanks mate. :thumbup:

    I hadnt really considered it TBH. :think:

    I will do some research and see what I can find. :icon-wink:

    Only issue is connecting up something that allows me to retain the MAF sensor. :icon-biggrin:
     
  10. AndyCook

    AndyCook Well-Known Member I am in scotland

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    Like the puller tool you made to get that pulley off,
    Good update, still lots,of work to do, my getting there!
     
  11. Gary820

    Gary820 Well-Known Member I am in great_britain

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    Coming along nicely.

    Ref the air filter you could make an adapter for the maf with your skills to suit a performance filter of your choice.
     
  12. clivehorridge

    clivehorridge Well-Known Member Supporter Guru I am in romania

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    Nice one Ben, a good bit of SS tooling there :thumbup:
     
  13. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    Thanks guys. :thumbup:
     
  14. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    Timing Belt

    I picked up the big torque wrench as planned.

    IMG_4457_zpslj85mztq.jpg

    IMG_4458_zps3nzg1qmi.jpg

    IMG_4459_zpsi72ayl8u.jpg

    Pulled the old timing belt and pulleys off.

    IMG_4460_zps8gpryedn.jpg

    And fitted the new belt and pulleys.

    IMG_4462_zps3ol2bmtb.jpg

    I found using a clamp to hold the belt in position on the top pulley while I got the rest in position was a big help.

    IMG_4463_zpsk0hghmgn.jpg

    I liked how the belt had 3 alignment marks on it, one for each cam shaft and one for the crank.

    Left cam.

    IMG_4464_zpsxfjvgsko.jpg

    Right cam.

    IMG_4465_zpsmfdpyuih.jpg

    And crank.

    IMG_4466_zpsyhpcvbgb.jpg

    The new torque wrench worked well to torque up the crank bolt correctly.

    IMG_4467_zpsrwrx19np.jpg

    IMG_4468_zpsggvturbk.jpg

    I put a lot of the front of the engine back together.

    IMG_4475_zpspn0b6ead.jpg

    But couldnt finish it as I discovered the ignition rotors are knackered. :doh:

    IMG_4474_zpsqmmh4nut.jpg

    IMG_4470_zpse68cvixj.jpg

    I've ordered new ones from Amayama for $10.80 each, so when they arrive I can finish putting it back together.

    I refitted the viscous fan ready for mounting the rad.

    IMG_4495_zpshyarbobu.jpg

    But more on the rad in the next update.

    Oil Filter Housing.

    I needed to sort the oil filter housing out as the filter was virtually touching the chassis.

    IMG_4188_zpsyiqhx13e.jpg

    IMG_4189_zps7jh1g83s.jpg

    Its quite a long thing and sticks out miles.

    IMG_4185_zpsewktxzpv.jpg

    IMG_4186_zpsyw8t6xa1.jpg

    IMG_4187_zpsctny31lq.jpg

    Normally people do one of 2 things when doing this conversion.

    1. They bolt an adapter to the engine then run 2 hoses from the adapter to a remote mount oil filter housing bolted to the chassis.

    I didnt want to go down this route for a few reasons, the main reason was that I dont think its a very neat solution and its not cheap.

    2. Fit a Toyota Soarer one which points forwards as opposed to sideways.

    This would have been a neat solution but trying to find one might have proved tricky.

    So I chose to modify the one I had. :cool:

    Removed the oil pressure sender unit and the threaded section that the filter screws to.

    IMG_4190_zpsh2upqb95.jpg

    The 2 oil passageways actually run off diagonally away from each other which is maybe why people dont normally modify these (I've been unable to find evidence of anyone else doing a "cut n shut" on one of these filter housings, despite ages spent searching google images).

    IMG_4192_zpsjjx2ig78.jpg

    So out with the recip saw.

    IMG_4193_zpst6vd7oyt.jpg

    And cut it in half.

    IMG_4194_zpssetl72na.jpg

    IMG_4195_zpsviebndaf.jpg

    Then marked and cut 20mm out of the middle.

    IMG_4196_zpswufho2c4.jpg

    IMG_4197_zpstz0rkbns.jpg

    IMG_4404_zpsa69lgogt.jpg

    IMG_4405_zpsrqjfhlmg.jpg

    Now I couldnt just weld the 2 halves back together as I wouldnt be able to fully weld/seal between the 2 oil galleries.

    So I purchased some alluminium tube to sleeve one of the galleries with.

    IMG_4406_zpsqd7apem9.jpg

    Drilled one of the galleries out to 16mm for the tube to fit in.

    IMG_4407_zpspsd85ocf.jpg

    IMG_4408_zpsgoptes1w.jpg

    IMG_4409_zpsghoum57m.jpg

    Cut some tube to length.

    IMG_4410_zpsi83tmvwj.jpg

    Pushed the tube into one half.

    IMG_4417_zpsda9ozcyl.jpg

    IMG_4418_zpssvm99whx.jpg

    And welded it in position.

    I didnt want to push it all the way through the housing and weld up the other end, because the other end has a rubber gasket that pushes in and seals it against the engine block and I didnt want to risk damaging that carefully machined face.

    IMG_4419_zps9sghiz5z.jpg

    IMG_4420_zpsajsa3nrm.jpg

    I filled down my weld slightly and countersunk the opposite hole to ensure a tighter fit when the 2 pieces were pushed together.

    IMG_4425_zpsrm4vvfxa.jpg

    IMG_4426_zps4uzvgprt.jpg

    Pushed back together.

    IMG_4427_zpsdkgb1x8q.jpg

    IMG_4428_zpsmtpliiua.jpg

    IMG_4429_zpszk7ctst5.jpg

    IMG_4431_zpsvqz0c4cr.jpg

    IMG_4432_zpss53xspj7.jpg

    The next job was to carefully weld the end of the tube to the housing to fully seal it.

    IMG_4433_zpso6obaki0.jpg

    IMG_4434_zpsav8ishke.jpg

    Then I could fully weld the 2 sections of the housing back together.

    IMG_4435_zpsuuu0umhy.jpg

    IMG_4441_zpsrqvkzuxf.jpg

    IMG_4442_zps9op83qzx.jpg

    IMG_4443_zpszmieqyxg.jpg

    I ran a drill and file down the 2 holes to fully clean them out and to improve the alignment of the holes without the tube insert.

    IMG_4444_zps2cuwenyv.jpg

    IMG_4445_zpswpypgpwe.jpg

    And that was that finished!

    1 x 20mm shorter oil filter housing.

    IMG_4446_zpsmf2fkrhj.jpg

    Screwed the oil pressure sender back in and the threaded filter mount.

    IMG_4452_zpsqq8w0ksw.jpg

    Bolted the whole thing back on to the V8.

    IMG_4453_zpsborenfoo.jpg

    Picked up a new filter.

    IMG_4454_zpsh2c4q6c4.jpg

    Screwed it on.

    IMG_4455_zpsllixtglx.jpg

    Plenty of clearance now! :dance:

    IMG_4456_zpsyoblsw9g.jpg

    Oil Cap.

    I picked up a new oil cap this week.

    IMG_4421_zps6yzxcotq.jpg

    To replace the Toyota one.

    IMG_4422_zpso0tc1psw.jpg

    Which the top had come off.

    IMG_4423_zps4biiwglc.jpg

    IMG_4424_zpsyzdzqgue.jpg

    Fuel Tank/Pump.

    I made a start on mounting the Lexus pump in my standard tank.

    Cut the mount off the Lexus tank and made sure I took enough to allow me to remove the surge bowl through the same hole.

    IMG_4526_zps3awnwh9a.jpg

    I just had to drill the 4 spot welds out holding it to the bottom of the tank.

    IMG_4527_zps7xyipmyv.jpg

    So this is what I want to try and fit to the bottom of my tank.

    IMG_4535_zps2tnz8yip.jpg

    So that the pump always has fuel despite the angle of the vehicle (hills).

    IMG_4537_zps7eaqwibp.jpg

    IMG_4538_zpsg69fokwc.jpg

    My initial thought was I might be able to just cut my tank and weld in the complete section I cut out of the Lexus one, but that wont work due to the shape of the 70 tank.

    So I decided to remove the metal around the fuel pump boss.

    IMG_4540_zpspliz1w6e.jpg

    IMG_4541_zps1wwyxlw7.jpg

    Drilled the spot welds out and prysed off the bits I need.

    IMG_4542_zpsfjqojbzc.jpg

    IMG_4543_zpsqi68vjwh.jpg

    My plan is to weld the boss to the side of my 70 tank to mount the pump to and spot weld the surge bowl back in the bottom and then link up a fuel return line to empty into the surge bowl. :think:

    What a lot of people do is fit an external surge tank and have a low pressure fuel pump pump fuel into that, then have the high pressure EFI pump from that to the engine.

    But it will be much neater, simpler and more reliable to just have the one tank mounted standard EFI pump, so thats why I'm going down this more difficult route as I believe it is a much better way to go! :cool:

    I'm also in the middle of modifying and mounting the rad and designing and making a cowl to go on the back to suit my fan location. :icon-biggrin:

    I've also ordered loads more parts for the build this week. :shifty:

    Working on it everyday for 3-4 hours, so another update soon. :thumbup:
     
  15. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    Fuel Tank.

    I got a tiny bit more done on the fuel tank this week.

    Marked the biggest flat section I could cut out of the top of RJ's tank and got it outside ready to wake the neighbours up at 7am angle grinding.

    IMG_4605_zpslxrcpq6f.jpg

    IMG_4606_zpsyvausyqj.jpg

    IMG_4607_zpshccqrkki.jpg

    The standard carby motored, surge bowl is tiny.

    IMG_4608_zps3lr6ieca.jpg

    This is where the Lexus surge bowl will be welded I think.

    IMG_4609_zpsf9bifjt8.jpg

    I need to cut a 125mm diameter hole in the side of the tank to mount the Lexus pump and I need to make and weld in a boss for the section I cut out so I can bolt an alluminium access/cover panel back on over the hole.

    Cooling System.

    I looked at mounting the alluminium rad next.

    IMG_4557_zps83i2rltt.jpg

    First job was to cut the old brackets off.

    IMG_4558_zps52nzlvoi.jpg

    IMG_4559_zps6ykwebnd.jpg

    Then I could add some new mounts.

    Picked up some angle from Bunnings.

    IMG_4560_zpszddvyoag.jpg

    IMG_4561_zpsjdmfipr4.jpg

    Cut it in half.

    IMG_4562_zpsdynjmiyw.jpg

    Clamped in position.

    IMG_4563_zps03bqwxj6.jpg

    Had to trim the bottoms for clearance.

    IMG_4564_zpshyvbeybw.jpg

    IMG_4565_zpss5vsp13u.jpg

    Marked and drilled some mounting holes and welded the angle on.

    IMG_4566_zps8jlvr40x.jpg

    IMG_4567_zpsvw2m4uxt.jpg

    Cut some cardboard to fit on the back of the rad.

    IMG_4568_zpslpuzeicd.jpg

    Taped it on.

    IMG_4569_zpsjfzh0pcb.jpg

    Bolted the rad on.

    IMG_4570_zpsfur4umsb.jpg

    IMG_4571_zpsaggzf05t.jpg

    IMG_4572_zpsyactrzet.jpg

    Marked around the fan with a pen so I can work out what shape to build the cowl to.

    IMG_4575_zpssqzz7yad.jpg

    I needed to blank off the small hose outlet on the thermostat housing as I will be running a slightly different system to the Lexus.

    IMG_4573_zps4kralkxx.jpg

    IMG_4574_zpsoftfs4ge.jpg

    On the Lexus that hose ran to the bottom of the coolant bottle.

    IMG_4591_zpszfqnf3d4.jpg

    IMG_4592_zps8u9qmdp1.jpg

    But I dont want to use the Lexus bottle (even though it would be an easier way to go).

    I want to use the standard RJ/LJ70 coolant bottle.

    IMG_4593_zpsvqu6zwst.jpg

    And my overflow hose will run from the bottle to a rad neck I'm going to weld on top of the rad, if it ever arrives from China (been waiting ages now).

    IMG_4594_zps7n7pkjej.jpg

    IMG_4595_zps1edgw5sn.jpg

    Removed the thermostat housing.

    IMG_4596_zpsxlkbm8dp.jpg

    Pulled the metal tube out.

    IMG_4597_zpsyz9epyhb.jpg

    Cleaned it up with a wire wheel.

    IMG_4598_zps1oohiks5.jpg

    IMG_4599_zpsvsfrjsik.jpg

    And welded it up.

    IMG_4600_zpsqb0ehob7.jpg

    IMG_4602_zpsujvmacjx.jpg

    Ordered a new O ring from Toyota (not sure I will use Amayama again, its been a nightmare trying to do business with them :doh:)

    When that arrives on Monday, I can bolt it back on.

    IMG_4603_zpsdpq7ut3h.jpg

    IMG_4604_zpsiko1ilu6.jpg

    And that was as far as I got as I decided I need a metal folder to do a proper job of the rad cowl and airbox (if I end up building one.)

    So I knocked these up.

    The big one, welded to the edge of the bench is for bending sheet metal and when I've added the fingers will be able to bend up boxes. :cool:

    IMG_4661_zpse4mle0kh.jpg

    IMG_4662_zpsrnlljkln.jpg

    IMG_4663_zpsmdlhbuze.jpg

    And this one is for bending up brackets.

    IMG_4664_zps37cfg2ln.jpg

    IMG_4665_zpsqrtqhseb.jpg

    IMG_4667_zpscxhc9s1o.jpg

    On the subject of airboxes/induction kits the only one I can find that looks even remotely suitable is a Pipercross Venom one, which I actually had on my LJ70 for a while.

    Not cheap though. :think:

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pipercro...228783?hash=item25a2afee6f:g:7F8AAOSw7aBVCpb0
     
    yota_lj likes this.
  16. Pat

    Pat Well-Known Member I am in new_zealand

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    I like your metal folder,much better than doing it in the vice.How many hours sleep do you get a night as you are doing a swag of work?Cheers.
     
  17. Animal Mother

    Animal Mother Active Member I am in wales

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    I used to live in Boronia. Went to Piranha one or two times. ;)
     
  18. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    Thanks mate, I'm really pleased with how it came out! :thumbup:

    :lol:

    Not enough! :eusa-naughty:

    Lucky if I get 6-7 hours a night! :doh:

    The biggest problem for me is the neighbours! Their bloody every where and as we dont have daylights saving, its light at 4;30am, I'm wide awake, raring to get a few hours work done before I have to go to work and I cant really make any noise until 7am at the earliest! :angry-screaming:

    I cant wait till we can buy some land and our nearest neighbour to be a mile or 2 away so I can angle grind/hammer/play loud music/walk round my garden naked etc at anytime of the day or night. Without having to worry about upsetting neighbours! :icon-cool:

    Me too! Piranha is a cool place! :icon-biggrin:
     
  19. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

    5,455
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    Sway Bar.

    I had been after a sway bar (or anti roll bar if your not from Australia) for a while but it was proving hard to find one as most people remove them as they limit articulation off road.

    As RJ will be mainly road based with some beach driving and light off roading, I decided I wanted one for the improved road handling.

    Well I finally got lucky and found one. :dance:

    IMG_4650_zps5ipnwx9c.jpg

    Stripped it down ready for paint.

    IMG_4668_zpsudfo0ag2.jpg

    Got it outside with a load of other parts that needed cleaning up with a wire wheel in the angle grinder.

    IMG_4753_zps0orl9kye.jpg

    I had intended to get all these bits shot blasted then either electro plated or powder coated but as I'm struggling to find places up here that are willing to work for a fair price and not rip you off, I figured I would just clean them up and paint them myself. :think:

    Did these 3 and they actually came up pretty good.

    IMG_4755_zpsajhekdbf.jpg

    IMG_4756_zpsriuie5ns.jpg

    Gave them a coat of this rust killer and primer in one. Not cheap stuff but I'm impressed with it so far.

    IMG_4757_zpswx4o8epx.jpg

    IMG_4758_zps1h5d2xmp.jpg

    Followed by 2 coats of this black enamel.

    IMG_4759_zps4qzfzcau.jpg

    Spare Wheel Mount


    While I was cleaning up the spare wheel mount and getting it ready for paint I found a crack in it. :doh:

    IMG_4760_zps24rv2fva.jpg

    IMG_4761_zpsrveb03ct.jpg

    Cleaned it up better using a wire wheel in the drill.

    IMG_4762_zpszdzxdqdi.jpg

    IMG_4764_zpsducgxiyz.jpg

    And then found 2 other cracks! :thumbdown:

    IMG_4765_zps36x2zont.jpg

    IMG_4766_zpspn3u8gnt.jpg

    Fusion welded them back together with the TIG.

    IMG_4767_zpswu7k0uu0.jpg

    IMG_4768_zps8tz4xsep.jpg

    And gave it a couple of coats of paint too.

    IMG_4769_zps0v5yqk0w.jpg

    Thermostat Housing O Ring

    The O ring I ordered from my local Toyota dealer arrived on Monday.

    IMG_4772_zps4rkprajm.jpg

    Which meant I could bolt the housing back on.

    IMG_4773_zpshakih1mf.jpg

    IMG_4776_zpsqhvsjlkd.jpg

    Interior

    I stripped the interior out a little bit this morning.

    Pulled the front seats out.

    IMG_4778_zpslmn8a5tm.jpg

    IMG_4779_zpslvbctymv.jpg

    Followed by the vinyl flooring, which because it had been fitted without any underlay its badly damaged and split. :doh:

    IMG_4780_zpsghsaleor.jpg

    The floor pan isnt too bad for a 31 year old car.

    IMG_4781_zpsk9iojkmr.jpg

    Theres a couple of tiny holes that need repairing.

    IMG_4782_zpsh5m5cg0x.jpg

    IMG_4784_zps7fyffr4q.jpg

    I wanted to remove the access panel off the top of transmission tunnel next.

    IMG_4787_zpsjnkdg5og.jpg

    IMG_4788_zpspm3dnnix.jpg

    That will make it easier to connect the transfercase stick and fit the new rubber boot to the top of the gearbox as the old one was split.

    IMG_4789_zpssywkxqou.jpg

    Radiator Hoses

    I've been looking at connecting the rad up to the engine.

    IMG_4680_zps4tv78wci.jpg

    The standard Lexus hoses seemed like a good starting point.

    Top hose wont work though sadly.

    IMG_4682_zpsugyffzub.jpg

    And the bottom one isnt really long enough at the top.

    IMG_4683_zpsklkbiccr.jpg

    Cut some out of the top one.

    IMG_4684_zpsddvflsn9.jpg

    Until I got it fitting nicely.

    IMG_4690_zpsyu5sgph7.jpg

    IMG_4691_zpsqiymsi7t.jpg

    Taped it together.

    IMG_4692_zps0tjaypbf.jpg

    And that is my sample hose, all I need to do now is take it to my local Repco/Bursons etc. and look through the hose boxes.

    IMG_4693_zpsdogg3nql.jpg

    Most people who do this conversion seem to make the rad hoses up using multiple universal silicon bends connected with joiners and lots of hose clamps, but I'd rather just use one hose top and bottom if possible and keep it nice and neat and simple. :think:

    Radiator Cowl

    A rad cowl is extremely important, I found without one fitted to my other 70, it overheats! :shifty:

    So I needed to make one to help channel the cool air through the rad.

    Took some measurements and pulled the rad back off.

    IMG_4694_zpsrgzd9oto.jpg

    Cut some 2mm alluminium sheet.

    IMG_4695_zpsaejv1wer.jpg

    IMG_4696_zps8pfbflv1.jpg

    Got it into the folder.

    IMG_4697_zps47p2lkth.jpg

    First bend.

    IMG_4698_zpsedpj2zzz.jpg

    To 45 degrees.

    IMG_4699_zpsrtg4c56k.jpg

    Second 45 degree bend.

    IMG_4700_zpsbbldxo2a.jpg

    IMG_4701_zps0abolkgm.jpg

    Resulted in this.

    IMG_4702_zpsdwrocczo.jpg

    Clamped in position.

    IMG_4703_zpsig1ryqih.jpg

    IMG_4704_zpsjivn4q75.jpg

    Folded some more alluminium for the other side.

    IMG_4719_zpstk1fk1kf.jpg

    IMG_4720_zpsuufxllz9.jpg

    IMG_4721_zps4qakuvqc.jpg

    Drilled and bolted both pieces on.

    IMG_4722_zpszqhillqi.jpg

    IMG_4723_zpsjwpw6tqf.jpg

    IMG_4724_zpsyuq1qybx.jpg

    IMG_4725_zpsdm6iszlw.jpg

    Cut and folded some more.

    IMG_4727_zpsxfclnuut.jpg

    IMG_4728_zps27zib1i1.jpg

    Cut one last strip.

    IMG_4729_zpsc85oahjh.jpg

    IMG_4730_zpselt880qe.jpg

    Using my big Stanley compass, I marked what would need cutting out, using a center point I worked out from my pen marks on the cardboard.

    IMG_4705_zpststk5mru.jpg

    Cut all the sections out.

    IMG_4732_zpsmumoeppe.jpg

    Clamped and welded it all together.

    IMG_4733_zpsl6uejb6f.jpg

    IMG_4734_zpsi38fkhax.jpg

    IMG_4735_zps1ezophs8.jpg

    All done, or so I thought.

    IMG_4736_zpsktcgoaa6.jpg

    IMG_4737_zpsqzad04o0.jpg

    Went to fit it and found it was hitting the chassis rail on the passenger side. :doh:

    IMG_4745_zpslkesirsc.jpg

    Chassis rail is marked in red.

    IMG_4746_zpscrj66kws.jpg

    IMG_4747_zps9qjpzbts.jpg

    Cut a section off.

    IMG_4748_zpscq4pwvyq.jpg

    Test fitted it.

    IMG_4749_zpsa0bffz0j.jpg

    IMG_4750_zpssedot9z9.jpg

    Cut and welded in a strip of alluminium to cap it off and get some strength back into the structure.

    IMG_4751_zpsbjo9tbge.jpg

    IMG_4752_zpssgiqssuq.jpg

    Bottom Radiator Outlet Modification

    I needed to change the bottom outlet for the bottom rad hose.

    IMG_4738_zps4pvdopwk.jpg

    IMG_4739_zpsbln7r4tf.jpg

    2 hacksaw cuts later.

    IMG_4740_zpsa4ii7vd0.jpg

    IMG_4741_zpsrvh0svpu.jpg

    IMG_4742_zpsinrfi832.jpg

    Clamped it in position and welded it on.

    IMG_4743_zpssyuehkwj.jpg

    IMG_4744_zpsn9gfl2f6.jpg

    New Parts for the build

    I had 3 deliveries today for the build! :dance:

    The alluminium radiator neck for the top of the rad has come and so can be welded on next.

    And 2 orders from Amayama which is mainly engine parts and pieces of interior trim that I was missing. :cool:

    I've ordered some NGK Iridium spark plugs from the UK (much cheaper than getting them in Australia) and once they are here the engine can be completely put back together. :think:

    Parts I still need to buy:

    -Stainless steel exhaust parts (mandrel bends, flexies, collector cone to make 2 pipes into 1, flanges and tube).

    -A new battery, maybe an Optima.

    -5 x 33" x 12.5 x 16 BFG KM2's.

    -Airfilter/induction kit.

    -Vinyl flooring and underlay.

    Oh I almost forgot................................

    I almost bought another soft top RJ70 this week. :shifty:

    I went and looked at this:

    IMG_4672_zpsmorlxhed.jpg

    IMG_4669_zpslizlvj6c.jpg

    IMG_4670_zps8lyaoifa.jpg

    But all I really wanted from it was the super rare, genuine Toyota fiber glass hard top. :icon-cool:

    IMG_4677_zpsxs0pnxw2.jpg

    IMG_4676_zpsqwy6tdpu.jpg

    So I decided not to buy it, had we been in a position where we had some land and wernt planning on moving every year for the next 5-10 years then at that price I would have just bought it and parked it up in a shed. :think:
     
    clivehorridge and yota_lj like this.
  20. clivehorridge

    clivehorridge Well-Known Member Supporter Guru I am in romania

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    Brilliant work Ben, just caught up on the last 3 updates...

    Like the oil filter mount reduction, "he who dares" eh?

    Fantastic! :clap:
     
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