Elecronic Diesel Tuning Devices

[Shayne]

Tuning is about improving the engines efficiency so if its done right it should improve reliability as well , for example if a standard truck needs 4000rpm to tow this up that hill then a well tuned truck should do it at 3000rpm coz it doesn't need to work as hard .

 

[Shayne]

Stu , rather than thread jack I will answer you here . Yes mines a 1KZ-TE

 

[Shayne]

To update this thread i have moved pressure and temperature sensor up onto the intercooler the details of which can be found here http://www.landcruiserclub.net/foru...ie-i-need-some-wiring?highlight=broken+collie , and in doing so the end of this saga is in sight . It really should have been obvious from the start that the sensors are the key to the electronic pump conundrum .

With the sensors in the right place taking the correct readings allowing the ECU to adjust fuelling accordingly all of a sudden the K&N high flow air filter + 3" exhaust + turbo actuator washer mod + retrofit intercooler all finally feel as though they are working together as one .

Today i finally got around to removing the throttle body butterfly and was happy to learn the retaining screws can be screwed out because the thought of drilling right through them made me cringe thinking about what rubbish might end up in the manifold . I had some limited success getting one out using a precision screwdriver which let me know they would screw out , so i popped down to screwfix and got myself a screw extractor set which pulled them no bother at all .

Whilst doing this i noticed the part i had fabricated to allow me to fit the intercooler wasn't very tidy





So spent and hour polishing it up which is laughable considering the flexi part of my intake pipe has about 5 layers of gaffa tape holding it together (note to self remember to buy a new polishing wheel and intake pipe )



Put it all back together and took it for a test run . Result the truck finally feels like it came off the assembly line as is and it hasn't been molested at all . Its time to start searching for a rolling road me thinks .

 

[Shayne]

Boost pressure is 10 maybe 11 at around 3200rpm , and parked test cut short because i forgot to bolt the intercooler down and the return pipe let go .

 

[Beau]

Boost pressure is 10 maybe 11 at around 3200rpm , and parked test cut short because i forgot to bolt the intercooler down and the return pipe let go .

Seems about right for standard boost pressures. However the turbo should be boosting fully once over 2000RPM, if not earlier I reckon... The turbos spool up fast, and should be even quicker now with your aftermarket exhaust. Also, Not sure if you'll get full boost parked up on idle as there's no load on the engine, however I could be wrong!

But at least you know you can get about 3-4PSI more safely without the ECU intervening.

 

[Shayne]

Makes you wonder what i was boosting at before the washer mod ? . It did seem odd to me that i had to rev so hard to push the needle to its limit but i can hear the turbo spooling almost as soon as i touch the throttle while driving . The gauge is plumbed into the actuator pipe which is now a full meter long for the time being so i can find somewhere to bolt the controller then cut the pipe and add it . A two minute job before going on a rolling road i think .

Got to take the whole thing apart again tomorrow because i can't find the bolt that holds the intercooler in place , there's absolutely no chance i dropped a 3" long M10 bolt inside and then chucked the nut in with it just for good measure but i'm damned if i can find it anywhere so i'll have to go fishing with a magnet just for peace of mind .

 

[Beau]

Well over time the waste gate actuator spring weakens so over the years I imagine boost may drop 1-2PSI due to that. So the washer could possibly just help get everything back into OEM spec. But yeah, these turbo's should be boosting at max PSI pretty low down in the range, you shouldn't need to rev it so hard. That's a great thing about these diesel engines. Max torque is created very low down in the RPM range. Could there possibly be a boost leak somewhere in your piping?

 

[Shayne]

I think i had to rev so hard because of the exhaust which gives indication of just how strangled these motors are in the standard form .

 

[Shayne]

Pushed the gauge through the bulkhead this morning and went for a drive , while the turbo spins up with almost any revs it doesn't peak (just over 10psi) until i'm ready to change gear so i reckon the wastegate must leak like the Titanic !

 

[Beau]

Pushed the gauge through the bulkhead this morning and went for a drive , while the turbo spins up with almost any revs it doesn't peak (just over 10psi) until i'm ready to change gear so i reckon the wastegate must leak like the Titanic !

Yeah, sounds like the waste gate is leaking. Either that, or a leak within the inter cooler setup, post turbo. But at 10psi, I doubt it. Maybe it's time for a turbo bleed off valve?

 

[Shayne]

A leak in the system will very quickly show itself as the fine black mist inside soon becomes very visible on the outside . I was waiting to go on a rolling road to set up the controller but with the clock ticking towards Romania and sods law meaning every single time i make a start on anything i get shot down and have to do something else usually for someone else the controller just doesn't seem important anymore .

It will be fitted and should only take half hour including a few laps around town but it won't be today or tomorrow as it was cancelled today in favour of finally swapping the rear drop links with the ones on the front . I have new heavy duty links and bush spacers for the front and figured i may as well remove the lot and paint it . An hour growling at the lower bolt on the front link because i can't stop the whole thread turning with the nut and the heavens opened with a vengeance , i was getting wet under the truck the rain was bouncing so hard so now the truck is abandoned out front taking up two parking spaces with half the anti roll bar resting on the road , and only 4 emails and 7 missed calls from people needing things yesterday when i got back in not a good day .

 

[Shayne]

Well it's fitted and i think its fair to say that everyone who has an old school turbo diesel should fit one . Forget tuning or upping the boost the improvement is obvious even with the controller turned to zero .

 

[Beau]

Well it's fitted and i think its fair to say that everyone who has an old school turbo diesel should fit one . Forget tuning or upping the boost the improvement is obvious even with the controller turned to zero .

Glad to see you got good results. It's because now you have completely eliminated the waste gate creeping open at lower boost levels. By the way, what type of controller did you go with? I had a turbosmart on mine when I had one fitted.

 

[Shayne]

Yes a Turbosmart T , I was boosting just over 10 before fitting it due to the "washer mod" and my truck goes like stink anyway so i was surprised to note an immediate improvement even while parked with the controller set to zero . It's hard to explain the difference but as a result i am 100% confident in saying nobody with a 1KZ-TE 90 is getting what mrT intended from the turbo . I got my truck with 90k on the clock and all it had ever done was drive the kids to school so if my actuator is useless (despite giving no indication that anything was wrong) they all must be .

Not sure about upping the boost further spinning the front heels in 2nd gear unintentionally is not a good thing .

 

[Shayne]

Catch cans

I want one and can't find one of a design i would trust .

 

[Beau]

Catch cans

I want one and can't find one of a design i would trust .

I haven't looked into any specific brand, but aren't they all made pretty similar in what they do. The cheap one's won't have any internal channels, where as the more expensive/better ones will have a internal channel for the airflow to down and then back up. This is meant to trap more heavier oil. Some people buy the one's you can open up and stuff a metal scourer down there to help further with catching oily particles. I just watched this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sx52W9CJug

 

[Shayne]

Done plenty of browsing Beau and the only thing i'm sure of is i will not buy one that does not show the internal design . I had hoped to find a good one factory fitted to a Volvo or Ford or even a Landrover so i could get one and retrofit it but no such luck .

 

[Beau]

Done plenty of browsing Beau and the only thing i'm sure of is i will not buy one that does not show the internal design . I had hoped to find a good one factory fitted to a Volvo or Ford or even a Landrover so i could get one and retrofit it but no such luck .

The problem with manufacturer one's is although they're good, they're a little too complex and often take in various pressure/vacuum hoses. In our situation, we need a simple inlet/outlet design, with a drain piece at the bottom...I think I may have a Toyota Supra Catch can lying about... I'll need to investigate further!

 

[fridayman]

I haven't looked into any specific brand, but aren't they all made pretty similar in what they do. The cheap one's won't have any internal channels, where as the more expensive/better ones will have a internal channel for the airflow to down and then back up. This is meant to trap more heavier oil. Some people buy the one's you can open up and stuff a metal scourer down there to help further with catching oily particles. I just watched this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sx52W9CJug

I have a relatively cheap aluminium one with inlet/outlet/drain/site tube/etc, but no baffles inside. I have filled it with steel wool and plumbed the outlet into my airbox. It doesn't work very well at all. I get plenty of oil in my airbox, and haven't had to drain it once in 3 years! The problem is that the inlet and outlet are right next to each other, so the hot/oily air isn't forced to go through the relatively colder steel wool for the oil to condensate. If I did it again I would get a Provent 200.

 

[Shayne]

I would run the outlet back to where its supposed to go Fridayman its removing the oil that's important . Provent is the obvious choice but i don't like that they use a filter , if the vent gets blocked it will likely cause overheating rather than prevent it .