Front hub overhaul...pending! Advice in the lead-up.

[Dave2000]

The LR swivels have oil in them, not grease. The one shot grease is and additive designed to thicken the oil to stop a slow leak.

Have to disagree with some of that quote Frank. The older Land Rovers did indeed have oil in them, but Land Rover introduced the 'one shot' grease supplied in a measured 'toothpaste tube'. After a rebuild you just used the later grease, only found out about it when talking to a guy with a Santander (Spanish Land Rover), he said they (LR owners) had used it for years in Spain and was quite shocked that I was not using it.

It is still quite runny, akin to sloppy black CV grease but seemed to work ok in road and competition use.

The LR swivels have oil in them, not grease. The one shot grease is and additive designed to thicken the oil to stop a slow leak.

Have to disagree with some of that quote Frank. The older Land Rovers did indeed have oil in them, but Land Rover introduced the 'one shot' grease supplied in a measured 'toothpaste tube'. After a rebuild you just used the later grease, only found out about it when talking to a guy with a Santander (Spanish Land Rover), he said they (LR owners) had used it for years in Spain and was quite shocked that I was not using it.

It is still quite runny, akin to sloppy black CV grease but seemed to work ok in road and competition use.

Re using it in the LC I cannot see there being an issue apart from cost, IIRC it used to be one tube per side? For the LC it would probably be three aside?

I would guess it is the normal moly as per typical CV grease, unless there is an additive the LC needs?

regards

Dave




regards

Dave

 

[frank rabbets]

If it was just for lubrication I don't see the point as I did over 250,000 miles in my Range Rover and had no CVJ wear. I managed to fit 10.5 CR pistons as opposed to the 8.3 CR ones of the original engine. There was a big increase in power. You could get 4 star petrol in those days.

 

[Dave2000]

I agree Frank, I do not thing it was about lubricant, more to do with the fact that 'most' Land Rovers did leak from the swivels, this helped with that problem. My Discovery did not leak oil before or after any rebuild with oil in there. Having said that you could replace the 'balls' so if they were pitted and leaky you could put new ones on, shame you cannot do that with the LC with a few nuts and bolts.

regards

Dave

 

[frank rabbets]

On new cars LR now use the one shot in with the EP90 to thicken the oil and prevent leaks. They have had problems with MOT failures on fairly new cars.

I think the oil filled approach has it's advantages over the grease but leaks are the weak point and MOT's are getting more difficult every year.

 

[frank rabbets]

The balls can be a week point. My friend put a very heavy Perkins diesel in his Range Rover and the 6 bolts sheared off and the axle tube sheared the shaft clean through. The wheel ripped the front wing off.

 

[Mblinko]

Land Rover talk .... surely not

 

[Dave2000]

Land Rover talk .... surely not

Nope, definitely not, your dicslexsic.

regards

Dave

 

[dellboykev]

Look what I have started, sorry everyone

 

[Steveindar]

Is it recommended to replace all the studs?

 

[Mblinko]

If it were me (and it has been) I would replace them all. I get quite a lot of peace of mind knowing a wheel isn't going to fall off and get lost

 

[frank rabbets]

Unfortunately yes and only use Toyota ones.

 

[Dave2000]

Unfortunately yes and only use Toyota ones.

Agree and be careful here, there are TWO different lengths available, something to do with a steel wheel option IIRC.

regards

Dave

 

[Mblinko]

Agree and be careful here, there are TWO different lengths available, something to do with a steel wheel option IIRC.

regards

Dave

for alloys, front and rear studs are different. I know this following my trials with Toyota Portugal.

 

[frank rabbets]

Does that explain the different torque settings for each type of STUD not WHEEL? Perhaps if you change wheels this makes you change the studs as well? Very confusing.

 

[Mblinko]

Given the higher torque setting for steel wheels I strongly suspect the studs are at least a different material and also may be different length. As I recall, the rear studs on an alloy wheel have a slightly longer shoulder sticking out of the hub face than the fronts do. I don't have the photos anymore to check but will do when I take the wheels off for new boots after Christmas. Always use Toyota parts for things this critical and you are right it is not straight forward. Someone with better knowledge than me may well confirm that studs are particular to wheel type (as are nuts) and must not be mixed. That said, I would think going from steel to alloy would be ok as torque is less, assuming studs have always been torqued properly and the nuts are changed accordingly.

 

[Dave2000]

It is a tad annoying that this is not explicit anywhere (well not anywhere I have looked), going from steel to alloy IMO would require a longer stud. If this is the case then it may be worth checking when you order and get the longer stud, it will cover both if you plan on serious off road/middle of nowhere journeys and want to swap to steel.

regards

Dave

 

[frank rabbets]

That's if you use open caps but dome nuts may bottom out inside ?

 

[StarCruiser]

The long series nuts I have are chamfered around the base so they will hold alloys by the washer part way up the nut and the steel spare I have by the chamfered front end. Probably not the thing to do long term but perfectly fine for the spare. The nut ends up the same distance on the thread (12 -13 threads) for both as it protrudes through the alloys.

I tend to do mine up by hand, not 'up to strip and back one' but to a point that's tight. I might well start using my torque wrench as the washer type of nut has less 'give' than the cone type which I have retained just in case.

(Someone did ask if I would sell them but I couldn't rediscover the thread to post a reply, which was a no for now)

 

[Towpack]

I tend to do mine up by hand, not 'up to strip and back one' but to a point that's tight.

That's just what I've been doing for years and how they got overtightened and weakened. 76lb/ft is very ​easily exceeded with a wheel brace or spider. JMO

 

[Mblinko]

The long series nuts I have are chamfered around the base so they will hold alloys by the washer part way up the nut and the steel spare I have by the chamfered front end. Probably not the thing to do long term but perfectly fine for the spare. The nut ends up the same distance on the thread (12 -13 threads) for both as it protrudes through the alloys.

I tend to do mine up by hand, not 'up to strip and back one' but to a point that's tight. I might well start using my torque wrench as the washer type of nut has less 'give' than the cone type which I have retained just in case.

(Someone did ask if I would sell them but I couldn't rediscover the thread to post a reply, which was a no for now)

I may be misunderstanding, but you can't use nuts for steel wheels on alloys nor vice versa.

IMHO the issues are: first how to stop the wheel running out of true and second how to stop it falling off. Both are linked.

The solution to the first issue depends on wheel material. On steels, a chamfered nut is sufficient as the material is hard. On alloys the material is softer so a greater contact area is required hence the nut goes part way inside the hole on the wheel and has a washer.

The solution to the second issue is a matter of thread length and torque. The number of threads sticking is out of the wheel hole is relevant to the clamping force the nut provides, the length must be at least the same as the diameter of the stud to maintain the required amount when applied. Always use the correct stud/nut/torque for your wheel type and note there is a difference front to rear on alloys. Steels I can't comment on.