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Land Cruiser 95 with 1KZ-TE -> Severe Engine issues

Wow,

well that went downhill very quick.

No need for some of the comments.

The guy wants to get his LC back on the road, not a lesson in English.

Gra.
 
Reminds me of Beau's melted cooler pipe , he recognized the problem quickly and did all he could to cool the motor while praying it wasn't to late but was still unlucky .

It's common knowledge on here that Toyota's temperature gauge is as much use as a chocolate fireguard as coolant is already near boiling when it decides to inform the driver of a problem , 2 minutes more hard throttle and i can imagine the pistons expanding with heat until they don't fit .

I would love to know what caused the knocking though ?
 
Agreed Gra, I thought Peter's English superb in actual fact. Far better than some English people I've come across. And certainly far better than my Norwegian.

It would be good to see the cruiser up and running again and to find out what actually went wrong.
 
Hello Guys!

1. Thanks for some of the good feedbacks left on here :clap:
I do apologize for my english not being to everyones standard, it is only my 4.language so please do bear with me.


It has been a severly busy week & I am sorry for not having got bak on here earlier!
I ordered the replacement engine last friday & they dismanteled & shipped it to me. I was woken up by the truck driver Thrusday morning who had dropped a wrapped pallet on my door step. I had asked the breaker to include the electric harness as I did the bad mistake (perhaps...) of not pulling bakc the wires from the ECU prior to dismanteling.... So the replacemnt engine came with all goodies. I had to resolder some busted connectors I salvaged off the excisting loom & modified the new loom to accept the tune box.
Dropped her on late Thursday night with the Madame as a helper.
Friday was not utterly fruitfull as I among others had to buy a new engine hoist. The old one was unsatisfactory. So I completed her yesterday. Filled all the fluids, barey starred at the ingition barrel & she sprung straight back to life :-) Purred like a kitten
No leaks, no fluids escaping, no bad at all.
Something must have gone right here :-)

Not to another Q; What is a good way & a good tool to use to tighten the bolt holdig the flex plate to the converter? I skinned most of my hand dismantling. I have tried with short 14mm socket, 3/8 UJ & Extentions to clear the cross member. I do seem to slip ( NO, not f*ck any bolts yet :) ) before I get the tention I want on them.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I will test drive here later today, give her a good spin. Change oil & filter again.
Cooling side was flushed good. The rad seems to be rather new. I hope that should sort the potential cooling issue.
Having a look at the old block, I did not see any scaling, sludge or smilar. So comparing with what I have seen on many other engines, this does infact look very clean!
Hmm

What I did come across however, was a bottle of som very thin 5W-40 Synth Oil in the truck. Not the best brand I am afraid. May this with some of the other now known aspects have lead to the premature failure
I still have to whip off the oil pan. I will do so & inspect the bearings.
Believe me, I do too what to get my head around what has happened here.

The remains of the engine will be stored in my buddies shed. I sorted him a narrow body LC 95 last summer. We are looking at tuning his engine & fitting a top-mounted Navara IC. Now I have an inlet duct to bucther :dance: Will possibly redo the complete ram. Need to do som flow-testing first, but that OT here
 
good results!

For the top bell housing bolts, I found a nicely shaped 14mm spanner works well, though with my EGR pipe removed along with various other vacuum related bits, it's made it a lot easier to work at the back of the engine and get access to those bolts.
 
Hi!

Beau-> NOT the bellhousing bolts, those are easyeasy.
I have a crancked ratchet 14mm ringspanner that works wonders. Took out the rubber cushions on the engine mount & suspended the engine from the hoist. Did not even brea a sweat

What I meant, where the bolts holdig flexplate to converter. They look easy untill You take a shot at `em.
I may possibly have found a solution for this, will try before I shout too loud :kissing:
Pics to follow.

As I have to work tonight, I will not be able to sort this before tomorrow & I see daylight again

Glad to have her on the move again thruth be told!
 
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These are the bolts that hold the torque converter to to the flywheel correct?

Those bolts I got access too from the bell housing access cover at the bottom of the engine. You'll spin the engine over by hand and do up all the bolts until tight... I tightened them all down multiple times going around.
 
Undoing them was eventually easy once I used force & not the bare skin of my nucles.
Off course the shiled is off & so is the stupid bit of foam (sound deadening ?)

Problem is space downwards towards the steering rack & straight forward its tight towards the oilpan.

I can`t get my 1/2" socket&ratchet in there. Long 14mm 3/8" Socket ist too long & the short one too short.
Might have to cut down a long 14mm 3/8 to clear both oilpan & flexplate & bellhousing.

Tomorrow will tell :-)
 
I'm not sure what you are trying to reach but the steering rack comes off quite easy and most could do with new bushes even if its not an obvious need .
 
Last->VeryLast resort Shayne :kissing:

I have come to the stage (in life...) where I don`t want to unbolt way more than needed.....
I think...

Agree! The steering rack can in prinsipal be rewarded new bushes sooner than later.
Just not got them in stock... & the local Toyo-Stealer tends to give me the runaround reg parts.....
 
I recently wasted a couple of hours trying to get the front diff out for the same reason but when i failed it took me 10 minutes to make a tool which allowed me to remove the drive plate and the diff almost fell out . The new diff was back in 5 minutes later . Sometimes more work is less .
 
Yeah, the right length 14mm spanner worked for me. Didn't have to remove the rack. It's tight but possible. Like I said above, make sure you go over the bolts a couple times. And yes, that foam is sound deadening. Start the engine up with the access panel removed and the foam and you'll see why they put it there
 
As You wrote Shane..........Sometimes one does not see the feathers due to all those birds...
Undoing the steering rack (5 Bolts) really is not that much of a hurdle.

My "cunning plan" failed, so dropping the rack is really the way to go. Along with a cut to size 14mm 3/8 Socket.

Anyways, did a few adjustments, changed the oil a few times around & gave her new filters.
Unclipped the tune-box for now & she will be "broken in" for now before I do anything else.
"New" enige is under warranty for 3 month whereafter I will give her another good go-over, throw a new cambelt on her & give her e genuine throrough "ALL OVER" with a liberal underbody protection before Winter kicks in.

The broken engine will be studied indepth no earlier than next week
I have one of my favorite project on my lawn now wich need my undivided attention ;-)

I`l keep posting if You guys can be bothered with my jibberish :-D
 
SafariTecPeter said:
I`l keep posting if You guys can be bothered with my jibberish :-D
Click to expand...

Yes please - I'm interested to know what was going on inside the old engine (and to follow the progress on its replacement) :thumbup: :thumbup:.

Keep up the good work.

Bob.
 
Please do Peter. Watching with interest here too. I've seen worse gibberish too I might add.....:lol:
 
Hi Peter, very interesting thread.

You'll need to get after-market poly bushes if you want to change them in the steering rack. When I did mine, Toyota would only quote for a new rack at €1400 plus VAT...

As for the engine swap, great to see the truck being saved and not added to a scrapheap somewhere to be stripped for parts
 
All well

The LC J9 is purring along very happily & doing fine.
Net week I will give it some mpre øove, toighten all bots, give here a tune & call it "Good to go" :-)

Naaah, she was too good to break....
Thant being said; Had I not put an (new to her) engine into this LC, then most likely she would have stranded on the shores on some local parts butcherer.....
 
Camshaft timingbelt and tensioners are an easy job on this engine, do it now :)
 
Noted, Parts where ordered last week anyway
Aint doing ANYTHING (mechancically) to it for now as it is under warranty for 3 Month
Will replace belt at the very end of warranty, hope she`s going to keep running :-)
 
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